I am not sure, i will have to look at it, maybe someone can share a picture of what that should look like?
I know, i ordered these 6 weeks ago. Had i realized i was using a sft40 i would've asked for one of them to be 9amp. but then again, heat is a factor, so 7.5a might not be terrible in that small host.
hmm. this sounds interesting. would you be able to share with me what part would be needed, and where it should be soldered, to make this change? I have a feeling i get the concept of what needs to be done, because -
I feel like there is an old Matt Smith (Adventure Sport) youtube video where he mods a driver of some sort by soldering / stacking resistors onto each other to get more current? I wonder if this is the type of mod you and JaredM are referring to?
That ZL looks SO Good!
CNCman - haha! yes it is, im pretty excited. Will probably take me both days due to small obligations around the house. lol
TmaxxJJ - I know me too! I know the FET enabled KR4 driver shold pump out some amps with the Molicel P26a i will use in that KR1, I'm excited for that!
And the D1s should be good, once i can properly tune that beam! its been rough, and i've got over an hour just into reaming the reflector and swapping between different centering rings, no rings, kapton tape, etc.. If i cannot dial in the beam very well, i may try the CULPM1 in the D1s as well... but i really do not want to "throw in the towel", but that D1s reflector is being a motherf**&er to try and dial in with that SFT40.. It started out horrible, so at least I'm making progress lol..
D1s from what I remember hearing had a flawed reflector. I believe the GT mini reflector fits it however… but maybe I have that backwards.
About the sense resistor, you’ll see a relatively large resistor marked with R010 or something similar. That would mean its .010 ohms or 10 milliohms. Whatever the value is, the formula is as follows.
Sense resistance (milliohms) * current (amps) = sense voltage (millivolts)
For example
10mOhm * 7.5A = 75mV
You then use this voltage and work backwards using your desired current. Lets say you want 9 amps
75mV / 9A = 8.33mOhm
So thats your target resistance
Resistors in parallel behave such that the total is the inverse sum of the reciprocals.
So 1/0.00833 = 1/.01 + 1/x
1/x = 20.05
X = .050
So stacking an R050 on top of a R010 should yield 9A.
And to modify Vsense you can change R3 :
R3 = R4 x (VCC-Vsense) / Vsense
With VCC = 2.8V and R4 = 3.3k
For 50mV you get 181.5k (180k is used), for 75mV 119.9k (probably 120k is used, check the code on the resistor), for 90mV 99.4k (100k is used).
Flawed reflector, or just tuned perfectly for a XPL-HI? IIRC nothing with that LED throws as well in its size class.
Artie - Have you got yourself a light meter yet so you can measure some numbers? Also for the tuning, or are you doing that by eye?
As I said, I may have had that backwards. D1 definitely had a bad beam, and I remember some folks swapping reflectors between D1s and GT mini. I can’t remember which was better and never had either personally.
Got a cheap triple flashlight from Alonefire. It comes with a white, warm, and UV LED. Swapped out the random white and warm LEDs with a XPL-HI 5000k and a sliced LH351D 2700k. Apologies since I can’t really manipulate white balance properly. The LH351D looks more orange IRL rather than rosy.
Sunwayman V11r
LH351D 2700k sliced dome
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low 0.02 lumens
Turbo 335 lumens
repacked control ring w Nyogel 767a
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unfortunately the beam is unacceptable due to a dark shadow in the spill (this does not happen with dome on)
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redid the reflow to an LH351d 2700k with stock dome on
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low 0.03 lumens
Turbo 425 lumens
the beam is Much better!:
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So far, i got the xhp35 HI 4000k in the M2r warrior, and i got the D1s done! 3.5 hours later! heres some pics. sorry for the link, dont have time to upload pics, but wanted to share!
Highlights:
Emisar D1s
7.5amp KR4 driver, Anduril 1
Lighted Cyan Switch
SFT40 LED (still needs to be tuned properly, height adjustments)
That D1s looks awesome Artiet!
I removed the spacers from the GT4 battery carrier so non-nipple button tops can fit.
Thanks Yokiamy!
Artie, D1 beam shots ASAP Please! looks like your a Surgeon with that dremel too
Artie, where did you get the side switch, I need one for a MT07.
And could you explain what beam appearance you are looking for when tuning ?
Got several lights that need tuning, never knew how.
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Nice mods 
I did not know the SFT 40 could handle 7.5 amps, wow 
You are giving me ideas 
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Looking good.
thank you! And JaredM for this info! Of course I already installed everything and before I came back to look at these comments.. but I still have the second driver for the D1 to try this with. Thank you!
even with the xpl-hi the beam was nasty. It's interesting because I see all of these posts about simons osram lights lately with people complaining about the beams, one of the biggest reasons I even figured I would switch the leds out during the d1 & D1s driver swaps was because the beams were already so poor anyway, just fuzziness around the hotspot, not impressive for what I come to expect from Hank. I would love to have a convoy sft40 quality beam on my d1s right about now! I know Hank didn't design this reflector for this led or even this size led.
I put a kr1 reflector in the d1s a while back and it improved it greatly! The kr1 reflector has made every emitter I've used it in (over a dozen) look really good! It's one of the best all around reflector I have ever used.
the d1s reflector- I wouldn't be surprised if you had it correct JaredM, and that it was flawed. I'm going to work on getting a gt mini reflector as when I had one of those i remember the beam was nice, maybe I'm wrong. but worth a try. I found a very similarly sized reflector on kaidoman, but it had a slight op which was disappointing..
Tmaxxjj - I have a lux meter for measuring throw.
when I say tune the beam (I am probably saying it wrong), I mean to eliminate the rings and artifacts, not optimize the throw Perse, although I feel they're probably hand in hand to an extent. I just want it to look better than this picture below.. it's very aggravating. The reflector is very thick at its emitter opening, and also wide. And with a small mcpcb it makes the options you have for lowering it without hitting the +/- terminals very difficult. If I had a lathe, this thing would already be either fixed or destroyed!
what are you implying/asking tmaxxjj? To measure while adjusting to see what works better? I'm using my eyes to determine the beam has terrible rings in it, yes. I don't need equipment for that lol. I don't care about total throw so much, I've recently felt like it is whatever the battery, led, and driver will let it be (total Lm & cd). I am way more concerned about how the beam looks. It's kind of all that matters, within reason.
D1s with a well fitting centering ring and the sft40 led.NOTE: the led is sits VERY low in the reflector open8ng with this centering ring, without the centering ring it's better than this pic but still not good by any means. I'm going to start reaming until someth8ng happens, good or bad. I've reamed before so I have experience of how not to mess that up. The beam on the other hand, who knows...
Today I finally built Convoy S21A quad using LD-A4 driver, Nichia 219b’s from Convoy flashlight store, lighted tailswitch and Kaidomain quad mcpcb and tir with self made spacer. Driver runs at 10A and leds are mix of 4500K and 3500K. Spacer is ~22mmx5mm copper piece with small machined groove for pcb. Kaidomain quad tir fits S21A perfectly.
Beamshot from 1,5m distance with color balance of 4600K