I’m comparing the binned values to OTF – ballpark. As the spec’ed values are at 6A and I don’t get near that at 8A (actually 7.39A at tail).
A further test, now with the wires. Removed the MCPCB w/ LED and mounted on static aluminium heatsink (no fan cooling). Driven by a power supply. Current measurement via clamp meter - closest possible to the MCPCB. Test leads 16 ga. On Start (O/S) values.
With the original wires, 24 gauge (I estimate): at 6A –> 1130lm, at 8A –> 1315lm
With new wires 18 gauge: at 6A –> 1230lm, at 8A –> 1350lm
So it would not seem to be the wires that are choking the output. There is a slight increase in luminosity but nowhere the claimed values.
Eliminating the switch, the spring, the battery, the driver, wires, and lens, I can only estimate my LED is either bad binned (which I would doubt as Simon’s are well documented and although a bad one may be in the lot, it is not common) or my lightbox is in error.
The lightbox;
I had problems with the throwers. After some exchanges with Jeff and CNCman, added a dispersing cone and this remedied most of what I had encountered with SST40 and SST70. The Osrams were always reading low, and so remains the problem with these leds.
The box measures well with the Q8 (4 x XPL-2), the Avaritia NA40-SE (3 x SST40s) and the Sofirn SP36 (4 x LH351D). Also works with the smaller EDCs.
Will have to find a better dispersion device for that hotspot…
Hey, anyone watching the youtube lately see an ad for a new movie, where an actor or stuntman decides to “get real” and signs up to be a soldier or something in the MidEast?
The name is something like “Hevic” or “Hevil” or “Helva” or something like that. Keep getting garbage results from goggle, so was wondering if anyone saw it and recalls the title
Searching google does not seem to show too much results. Found it while browsing YTS though. Heval (2021) YIFY - Download Movie TORRENT - YTS. Seems to be a curiosity stream special. “heval documentary” yielded better results.
Does anyone have a D4SV2 dissemble write up? I just need to access the driver and flash the 1634.
Based on my research, I need a soldering that goes up to 400c?
I destroyed those pads lol.
Anyway, it was easier to dissemble than expected. I desoldered the aux wires, cut the thick wire and use a thing to violently push out the driver.
I am in contact with Hank. Maybe I will get another flashlight with the driver. Let’s see if the tinting ramping are coming out soon.
DCIR changes with state of charge yes, it is significantly higher when SOC is low, slightly higher when SOC is high ( See the last graph )
It’s also higher when cold, lower when hot.
In his review HKJ found that the DCIR function is reasonably consistant but that it significantly underestimates it.
For reference Docware measured the DCIR of several cells according to IEC61960 standard:
But even if the S4 underestimates it you can still use it to track ageing.
You have the right idea in noting the ballpark DCIR onto the label (I use a fine-tipped marker and cover with Scotch Tape).
However, for the 3 or 4 cell lights, I have dedicated batteries. This to always be around the same IR. Then the deep-drawn lights, I also have dedicated cells for these.
Keep in mind, we’re measuring milliOhms. Any slight difference in contact points in the charger, any oily residue will affect the reading. I’ve taken to cleaning these contacts and cells with Iso alcohol for a proper test.
When I “check” resistance, I bap the button like a dozen times, and will get a dozen different readings, albeit in roughly the same range. Ain’t like it’s gonna read 42… 42… 42… 42… etc.
Hank is offering those 219BT-V1 emitters but hasn’t posted an estimated max output for them. What max lumen level would you get from those in a D4V2? What is their heat like compared to an E21A or an XP-L Hi?
In addition to what thefreeman shared, you might like to read HKJ’s old article on resistance testing. Basically it’s hard to do it accurately and most meters won’t be good enough, just like most chargers are not accurate in their readings. I like having the feature on a charger anyway because I can get an idea and mentally keep an average, sort of, over time. I used to note it on new cells but stopped just because the readings on chargers are so variable. If the resistance when first measured on the charger begins to get noticeably and consistently-ish higher, then you know that cell is aging and may not be capable of giving the current it used to, so maybe time to relegate it to lower powered lights at that point.
I have an Emisar D18 with half xpl hi 4000K and half xpl hi 2750K that I bought last year. I’ve tried getting the ceiling bounce app installed on my old phone, but can’t figure it out. Anyone have a rough guess what the lumen and candela output would be? I’m using Samsung 30q button tops for it if that matters.
Also, if anyone has advice on how to install the ceiling bounce app, that would be much appreciated as well! I have windows and linux (fedora) on my computer so whatever is easier. Never sideloaded(?) an app so I’m lost.
