The TS21 is a small, light weight, light. It gets hot quick and the output will decrease based on the max temperature setpoint in Anduril. That temperature setting is what will determine the output level. With factory settings, my light dimmed pretty quick. I set the temp to 60 and it gets too hot to hold before I notice any dimming.
So maybe 800 lumens?
lumaniac did this and it showed the top ramp holds around 80% for a substantial amount of time (24 minutes) when set to a max temp of 60%. 1lumen measured turn on at 1655 lumens at top ramp, so still holding around 1324 lumens after 24 minutes. Note this is highly cell dependent, in fet mode and with cooling.
This is the reason now why I’m going to buy it, for trail riding with air flow it appears to hold substantial light output.
If Wurkkos keeps this up, they will be outselling Convoy.
The code I had took $10 or so off the light and I had an Amazon credit of $15 I believe. Total shipped I paid like $25.
Hi. I have question about T21S. Is that 4000K SST20 is high cri variant or ordinary low cri?
I don’t recall seeing that listed either way, but since the IF25A probably uses the same LED and it’s 95cri, I’d guess this one’s the same.
High CRI. Supposed to be, anyway…
I ordered the champagne on Oct1 for $33 shipped including the battery. Only problem is they are all on vacation for a week starting EOB that Friday for National Day and now all orders are sitting unshipped for a week. Hopefully they get caught up on orders quickly. My last light I ordered took just 10 days to get. This one will be twice that at best. Hope I’m wrong. 
Wonderful review!
Thanks for sharing
The temp sensor is on the driver PCB, not the body of the light. If you just take a temperature reading of the outside of the light after using it, it will not be the same as the temperature of the driver PCB.
If you leave the light off and let it sit for a couple hours, the entire body of the light as well as the driver will eventually equalize to exactly the air temperature of the room. This way you can accurately set your temp sensor.
I don’t worry too much about absolute accuracy when I set mine; I just try to get it within a few degrees of ambient. If I notice it’s stepping down too slow or too fast, I then just tweak the step-down temperature down or up, respectively.
No worries, but ach!, I gotta get pix up. Having “issues” ULing…
Someone who’s hiding out as a lumberjack and talks to his dead father would appreciate your taste 
it is high 95CRI
I need help deciding on 5000k or 4000k. Problem is I usually like 5000k for most my lights but everyone says the sst20 5000k is “puke green”. I run my lights mainly on high. Can I expect not to see it?
I have only 3 emitter FW3A with SST20 4000K. For now I think my favourite High Cri in 3535 format is LH351D. SST20 4000K are not green at low levels but maybe they will be very warm for you especially at low levels. Also I have IF25 with SST20 6500K and 3000K. 6500K are very greenish at low levels. I think I have also Skilhunt E2A with 4000K and 5000K sst20 but it lack to have very low moon output to compare them side by side.
Thanks
Because you prefer to use high mode there is not green in 5000K version. Also 4000K is Hi-Cri variant so it is not very efficient LED.
Wow is right! Darn you Lightbringer;-) I am really trying to fight of the urge to get one of these for myself. Officially I am still on hold as I really don’t need another light and have other things to spend my money on. However, after reading your review, decided to get one for my friends birthday present.
This really is a fantastic light that does everything I like and that 21700 is great for capacity without making the light too big for EDC. A bit too heavy for hat brim use but could be used that way in a pinch. For that duty I already have an EO2 II. The TS21 has the beautiful 4000k SST 20 same as the EO2 II. TIR as well for a wonderful beam. Even has a respectable moonlight in smooth mode. (Perhaps could configure stepped mode to do the same?) There is really nothing I don’t like about this light.
The ATR works great as far as my example goes! Haven’t messed with the calibration as the temp is correct and it stays crazy bright long enough for me. Would be interesting to do more testing but it seems like about the 4th step up in default mode is about the thermal limit of the light and that is considerably brighter than what it has to step down to when running turbo. Maybe capable os sustained 500 lumen or so? for many hours. Pretty darn good for something this size if you ask me. Will be really fun to use one in the cold weather up here as I bet it will hold a bunch more lumen.
The included cell is really good! Low IR and in the ballpark on stated capacity. Must be able to put out some good amps. Tested the light with a protected button top 18650 that works great in every single LED light I have but it could not sustain the turbo in the TS21. Guessing that the 30q would do it but I don’t have a spacer and they are too short.
I don’t really see or at least have yet noticed any significant differences between the Andrul II on this and the one on my SC31 Pro. Is that why this light will actually do a respectable moonlight compared to the SC31 pro? I’m sure not afraid to give this to my friend with the default configuration and smooth ramp mode. Simple to use and very useful. With the 21700 and built in battery check my fear of setting the ramp in such a way to unexpectedly drain the battery farther than I expect is eliminated and I like the smooth ramping interface. Only use stepped on my SC31 pro because I feel like I need better control over how much battery I have.
If my SC31 pro died tomorrow I would definitely get one of these for myself. I don’t know how long I will be able to resist anyway. This is everything I want from a tube light.