The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

They are just programmed that way. Just personal choice of the person writing the code.

Hank is offering those 219BT-V1 emitters but hasn’t posted an estimated max output for them. What max lumen level would you get from those in a D4V2? What is their heat like compared to an E21A or an XP-L Hi?

In addition to what thefreeman shared, you might like to read HKJ’s old article on resistance testing. Basically it’s hard to do it accurately and most meters won’t be good enough, just like most chargers are not accurate in their readings. I like having the feature on a charger anyway because I can get an idea and mentally keep an average, sort of, over time. I used to note it on new cells but stopped just because the readings on chargers are so variable. If the resistance when first measured on the charger begins to get noticeably and consistently-ish higher, then you know that cell is aging and may not be capable of giving the current it used to, so maybe time to relegate it to lower powered lights at that point.

I find it a little more useful on NiMH cells.

http://lygte-info.dk/info/Internal%20impedance%20UK.html

I have an Emisar D18 with half xpl hi 4000K and half xpl hi 2750K that I bought last year. I’ve tried getting the ceiling bounce app installed on my old phone, but can’t figure it out. Anyone have a rough guess what the lumen and candela output would be? I’m using Samsung 30q button tops for it if that matters.

Also, if anyone has advice on how to install the ceiling bounce app, that would be much appreciated as well! I have windows and linux (fedora) on my computer so whatever is easier. Never sideloaded(?) an app so I’m lost.

Too safe….probably yeah maybe, and that’s fine. A lot of this anti-heat stuff comes from the general lighting industry, notsomuch the flashlight folks (obviously…I mean it was light geeks that pushed envelopes and made cool things despite some heat, and eventually the world followed…most of the world).

Many lights will limit or prevent hot-hot running temperatures either through limiting the current altogether or by using a timer or temperature reading on the driver which then bumps it down to cool off. Choose a light or build using a driver that has no limits and yes, you can actually blister your skin and in some cases damage components, depending. Most people will turn the light down or off when it gets pretty hot, and turn it off in a panic if it feels super hot, but generally the emitters and electronics can handle temperatures far above the point where you skin can actually get burned. Ultraviolet emitters and some others are exceptions…heat wimps. Super cheap lights with plastic reflectors or other unworthy parts may be damaged if they are modded to run high power fun.

I had a chuckle yesterday at work. Coworker isn’t a light geek but he loves lights and got into them many years ago when lithium cells were less easy to come by. He’s been using Lumintop Tools for awhile but usually just quick utility bursts of light. He left one running on high on his desk for awhile and was shocked when he picked it up again - thought his hand was going to melt off. lol. I picked it up and was like, yeah, it’s warm, almost hot, but not really hot yet. Uncomfortable to hold, but doable without skin turning red. So it’s relative and it takes some exposure to realize what’s “hot” and what’s actually hot, and where those limits are. But other than skin, the light and components are usually plenty robust.

Mainstream light makers will prevent this heat in favor of longer run times and/or avoiding complaints in the mass market customers (that’s a win-win for most general public light users, notsomuch for enthusiasts).

I would do one or the other but not both. I have not tried this myself so it’s just educated guessing, but my concern would be that soldering would burn the paste, perhaps leaving a carbon that would not conduct heat at all. The solder by itself will conduct just fine, albeit less than the base metals do. Take the time to inspect the flat surfaces of each and remove any nubs or burrs, perhaps try to flatten the pill platform if it’s concave/convex as some of them are (a larger punch or similar can be used to gently persuade it flat again if necessary)…just to give them the best fit so less solder is needed in there. Proper interface is more valuable than the filler used to correct that, when possible. Same is true for mcpcb’s. With a decent interface and minimal clamp pressure from the reflector/bezel, paste by itself is just fine.

That won’t cause any cell damage. In fact, that’s pretty conservative use. Go forth and turbo

lol. Words to live by!

Yeah, no worries for the emitter or the cell using it like that. We humans are soft, pink, and crunchy…it’s amazing that we can survive at all. Flashlights have exoskeletons and hearts of magma - they’re tougher than we are when it comes to heat and exertion.

Hard to imagine not having nice bright lights these days. Actually it’s hard to even imagine years ago when we got by with 20 lumens or less! We had a contractor in the office the other day and he pulled out one of those cheap angry-blue zoomies that hardly put out any useful light for what he was needing. I may have actually cringed. Didn’t have any decent lights around or I would have tried to convert him.

How do you enable the Jump Start for the D4V2 with 219B?

I have two D4V2 both are Anduril 2, 2021-08-13
One has the jump start enabled and one doesn’t.
The moon light comes on normally vs another second delay.

In terms of DIY/Moding, I have a single 16340 host that I plan on running at 1.5-2A with an LMR. What are the most efficient / high output LED options for running with a fixed current 7135 or buck board? I haven’t been keeping up with the latest series of emitters available, and the amount manufacturers and options seems overwhelming these days.

In 3535 size, probably the LH351D, in 5050 I’d say XHP50.2 version 3V (or .3 but not available yet), then SST-40/SFT40.

I need some 20350 battery. On Ali Express, I have found this “soft-wrapped” 20350 battery.

Can this be used in a flashlight?

It seems this size of battery is mostly for vaping; and so it is not available in countries where vaping is prohibited.

Can anyone guide me to the source of normal 20350 rechargeable battery?

It seems you might have better luck finding a good 18350 battery. There is not a big difference in capacity, if at all. You can make a simple spacer just in case it might rattle.

Thanks Robin Debbie and Jason WW for your kind and quick responses.

I have found a convenient solution: I just try putting in a 18350 cell on my new Wurkkos TS21, instead of a 20350. And it works. No need to find the uncommon 20350 cell anymore. Can just use the common 18350 cell.

I’d like to know also. I had always presumed Cainiao was the cheapest logistics transporter. Often they lose tracking somewhere over the Pacific. But on some occasions, they pulled through at record speed. And to add to the confusion, they are wholly owned and operated by AliExpress; much like AliExpress Shipping. Some kind of double standard?

Mind you I’m in Canada and the ePackets are piggybacked with the commercial (passenger) flights and these haven’t come back pre-pandemic. Often they linger about in some hub waiting for an available flight. I don’t think premium changes anything at that bottleneck. However, the premium does have tracking throughout and doesn’t get bounced around the various checkpoints/holding stations.

@ CRC:

My CULPM1.TG has some characteristic flowering really close-up (say 2 inches). I always thought this normal with these Osrams being a small die within a larger substrate. My CSLPM1.TG is out of focus and doesn’t show any artifacts.

As for that green Osram, you could loosen the retaining screws on the MCPCB and try re-centering the LED.

I’m not sure that would do anything. The centering ring adjusts to the led, not the other way around. It looks like the centering ring is just a tiny bit larger than the led body. He could probably try loosening the bezel that presses down on the lens and reflector so that they are loose and then tap the light against his hand to make the reflector and centering ring shift slightly. Once it looks centered, tighten the bezel back down.

Generally speaking, perfect centering gets harder and harder as the led die gets smaller. Just tightening the bezel again could shift the centering a little bit. Its going to be trial and error to get it perfect. If the centering ring refuses to move over, then you might have an issue of the mcpcb pushed to the side limiting adjustment. In that case I’d do like Sydney says and loosen and screws and push the mcpcb back towards the middle. Then you go back to the first procedure using light taps to shift the reflector and tightening it down.

An explanation of the parts:

If you take the bezel off you’ll see the lens and an oring. Remember how they are arranged. Then the reflector is sitting on top of a smaller plastic piece called a centering ring. The reflector centers on that. Then the hole in the centering ring is supposed to center around the led. It looks like the hole is just a tiny bit too large in your light which allows it to not center perfectly every time.

The pressure of screwing down the bezel presses down on the glass, oring, reflector, centering ring and mcpcb. This pressure is what allows good heat transfer from the mcpcb to the flashlight head. The mcpcb might have one or two screws going through it. These are usually there only to prevent rotation. Tightening the bezel might rotate the reflector and it could cut the wires if the mcpcb were to rotate.

If you unscrew the bezel and remove the downward pressure the parts should be able to move around a little bit.

Here is a typical centering ring.
It’s also called led insulation gasket or a reflector spacer.

@ Robin;

I hope it wasn’t a large difference in price between standard and premium.

Looking over the ETAs between the two, knocking a few days for often $4 + wasn’t justifiable (my experience). As for the ETAs changing from the purchase date and actual shipping order, logistics change and with the 11.11 yearly sale bonanza, volumes go way up. Perhaps they foresee some delays?

But this change from Cainiao to AliExpress Shipping furthers my thinking they are both the same and only on the merchant’s end there is some contractual difference.

Gotta play the patience game…

Hey what’s the low voltage on the S2+ with 219B?
All 3 of mine are blinking like a beacon every four seconds when it drops to 3.1v
My S2+ CSLNM1.23 Red is also having this problem and it’s also another 3.1v battery.

This happens at 100% power and not at 35% , 20, 1

Well, that’s a low-voltage warning. Can’t run at high current when below LED forward voltage (threshold).

Charge your batts…