I received my WT3M today. When I screw the battery tube on, the emitters activate automatically. I can access candle mode when the emitters are on low like this so I guess the light thinks it’s off. Is there an easy fix for this? XHP50 version.
So.. I think its kitting more, i will test tomorrow Early morning. Unless the W2 KR1 is way less than 100kcd.. Because the sst40 WT1m BLOWS my kR1 away (visually). It is REALLY impressive. It is PERFECTLY focused
Keep in mind, I measured 8.9 amps at the tail on my WT1M SST-40 on a fully charged 40T. So if you run tests with the stock tail assembled, like I do, it's probably running at lower amps. A bypass of the tail spring will negate the drop and be much closer to the measured tail amps.
I didn't take my throw #'s at 30 secs, but rather measured them after the 30 secs lumens test, waited a cool down period of 5 mins, then used a 5 sec pause on max before pointing it to the meter. My result this way was 93 kcd. Lately I've been recording 3 numbers for lumens test: start, 10s, then 30s. It's interesting to see the majority of the drop occurs in the first 10 seconds, like always.
Interesting that it's performing so well. The head diam puts it in the C8 class, and with all the great OSRAM LED's as of late, guess the # didn't get me much excited. Re-measuring it, I get 44.8 mm head diam, and 35.5 mm inner of the bezel, which probably matches the I.D. of the reflector. C8 reflectors are typically around 37.5 mm I.D. according to my notes, which would make them better throwers in theory. But from BLF history and my own experience, we found some C8 replacement SMO reflectors definitely had better throw than others.
Yes, i need to check with my lux meter before i make any claims, especially since you did the proper testing. But i will say i had a 5000k M21c Convoy (basically the C8 with a 21700 battery) and this thing visually throws much better.
And to attest to your comment "some C8s with SMO perform better than others" - as much as i love my Convoys, all of them, you are 100% right! some of my Convoys centering and beam tuning is ... not so great.. while others are perfect (cough cough.. L21a with SFT40 .. is perfect).
This WT WT1M is really satisfying, even though the head is slightly smaller then the C8, it is much more fun for me. Plus that green glowing side switch and awesome machining really sets it apart. For a C8 price tag nonetheless.
Thanks for the measurements and details about your method Tom. Another factor here could be the binning of the SST40s. Maybe WT got a really good batch here on top of a well executed reflector. I did some rough pixel counting measurements and estimated 35.7mm, so close enough and I’ll stick to the +10% number.
Sure would like to see some beam shots of this beauty next to a c8 and whatever else.
Yeah, I hear you about the focusing. Possible it was focus issues but using the same centering piece, same LED/MCPCB, just swapping reflectors got you different #'s - still could be focus though - I could understand it's possible. Also there's been variances from reflector to reflector - the old TN31's were known for that, but probably no other light was so heavily used an an OEM base for throwers at the time, so they were heavily analyzed.
My WT3M 3x50.2 just arrived today. Wow so much smaller than I thought! Pocket light for sure. Flawless machine quality.
Mine had tailcap connection problems out of the box. Had to fool with it to get some flicker. Finally got it on and into turbo, ran it till it was unable to be touched anymore. (There seems to be no temperature protection on this light. She's a ripper.)
After the extreme heat, the connection problems have seemed to have stopped. But a a persistent flicker still exists at high ramp and turbo.
Looks like this one is going to get modded.
Oh yeah, long time lurker, guess this is my first post.
nice! Thanks for stopping in and signing up! Sorry to hear about the flickering, any thoughts? Grounding/ negative short? Maybe in the head/reflector/ mcpcb?
Have you tried setting the temp and temp limits?. Also assuming your battery is good, the flicker on high and turbo might just be poor battery connection.
According to WildTrail a few of the clear coated "silver" lights may have some residue from the coating process on their electrical contact areas. Black anodized lights are not affected at all. The problem can be resolved quite easily by removing the residue on both ends of the battery tube as well as on the outer rim inside the tailcap as shown in the following two videos. (Remark: videos courtesy by WildTrail, uploaded to YT by me)
Should you still be encountering flickering output or severe electrical contact problems after these steps, please get in contact with WildTrail, e.g. sales(at)wt-light.com, to request a replacement of the tube and tailcap.
