Thanks for the heads up about the color of the LED.
XP-G - XP-G2 - XP-E2 - Plastic Butterfly Style Emitter Spacer / Insulator
XP-G2 / XP-E2 Plastic Butterfly Style Emitter Spacer / Insulator
Thanks for the heads up about the color of the LED.
Just copied and pasted a listing from Mtn electronics website and changed the *8 to *6, no big deal…Like I said, it’s my first build. As such, perhaps you can tell me whether or not I’d need to alter my build to get the results I’m looking for?
“you need a separate channel with a single 7135” … How would I do this?
“6*7135, each 7135 gives 0.35A so 2.1A in total.” … Okay, if I only have 2.1A, so I have to change something in my components? Do I need a different emitter? Or does this just mean I’m have lower current and as a result lower lumens?
If you don’t want to answer in long form, maybe you can share a few links you’ve used in the past to learn about this stuff?
I’ve built plenty S2 lights —- The small footprint LEDs seem to do better in my opinion — SST20 (throwy) XP-G2 (throwy) — Samsung (floody)—-Unless you want some crazy low moonlight the regular Q lite driver works fine with Guppy —— I’d keep it at 3 amps — with all the mode options and Turbo timer it will work fine
I’d buy at least two of each component —— nothing like frying your first driver and have to wait a week for another one
Good tip, I’ll pick up a couple components…they’re cheap enough.
Sorry ’bout that! Thanks, for the replies. I appreciate the info.
All the Qlite 105C drivers I have bought from mtnelectronics use the 380mA version of the 7135 and come standard with 8 of them = 3.04 amps max output. They are quite a decent driver with guppy.
All the Qlite 105C drivers I have bought from mtnelectronics use the 380mA version of the 7135 and come standard with 8 of them = 3.04 amps max output. They are quite a decent driver with guppy.
Yeah, the *8 is standard, and they remove as many as you want for an extra fee. I suppose if I have the upgraded firmware that allows for any config, *8 would be fine. I was worried that *8 would be too much of a battery drain, even on lower settings. I also read mixed information regarding issues with flickering and heating up when you use a driver with higher amp outputs.
Again, I’m totally new to this, so I could definitely be mixing stuff up.
Personally I would not worry about having 3.04 max. Yes the light will get hot, but you can reduce the output lower if needed.
My very first self built light was an S2, with that Qlite driver with 4 added 7135’s, feeding a triple mcpcb and using a Carclo triple optic plus aluminum spacer that is needed when doing a triple like that. I learned a lot and went onwards from that.
Are you wanting something that throws or floods more? Tube lights like the S2, S2+ don’t make the best throwers, IMO. I like the triples as you can swap the optic if you decide you want wider or narrower beam. Plus three of the same emitter are more efficient than a single with the same current.
One thing to be aware of when working on an S2 is that the brass retaining ring that screws into the brass pill to secure the driver will not fit over that driver. That is, the inner opening of the retaining ring does not have a large enough opening to clear the 7135’s on the side of the driver that faces the cell. The ring has to have the inner hole diamter filed larger or the driver is just soldered to the pill.
Once you get used to soldering iron use, you can easily remove 7135’s from a driver like the Qlite. You can also add your own.
Personally I would not worry about having 3.04 max. Yes the light will get hot, but you can reduce the output lower if needed.
My very first self built light was an S2, with that Qlite driver with 4 added 7135’s, feeding a triple mcpcb and using a Carclo triple optic plus aluminum spacer that is needed when doing a triple like that. I learned a lot and went onwards from that.
Are you wanting something that throws or floods more? Tube lights like the S2, S2+ don’t make the best throwers, IMO. I like the triples as you can swap the optic if you decide you want wider or narrower beam. Plus three of the same emitter are more efficient than a single with the same current.
One thing to be aware of when working on an S2 is that the brass retaining ring that screws into the brass pill to secure the driver will not fit over that driver. That is, the inner opening of the retaining ring does not have a large enough opening to clear the 7135’s on the side of the driver that faces the cell. The ring has to have the inner hole diamter filed larger or the driver is just soldered to the pill.
Once you get used to soldering iron use, you can easily remove 7135’s from a driver like the Qlite. You can also add your own.
Great information, thank you! Yeah, I am not well practiced with a soldering iron. This is a fun build that allows me to practice and learn a bunch of new skills.
I’m not looking to illuminate something that’s super far away … I’m more interested in a nice flood with a tiny bit of range. A nice EDC that I can use to walk my dog a night, night walks in the woods, working on my car or tractor, around the house, etc.
One other question I had is regarding thermal compound/adhesive. I’ve, again, seen differing opinions about whether it is best to use thermal compound or a permanent bond with thermal adhesive. My gut is leaning toward thermal compound, so it is easier to make adjustments or completely change my build at any time.
Any recs on this?
I was going to buy Arctic Ceramique 2 Thermal Compound from Mtn. Electronics. It’s inexpensive and you get quite a bit for your money. I know many people recommend Arctic Silver 5 Premium Thermal Compound, but if I could get something decent for less, I’d rather have a lower cost entry point in the beginning.
Thanks!
One other question I had is regarding thermal compound/adhesive. I’ve, again, seen differing opinions about whether it is best to use thermal compound or a permanent bond with thermal adhesive. My gut is leaning toward thermal compound, so it is easier to make adjustments or completely change my build at any time. Any recs on this? I was going to buy Arctic Ceramique 2 Thermal Compound from Mtn. Electronics. It’s inexpensive and you get quite a bit for your money. I know many people recommend Arctic Silver 5 Premium Thermal Compound, but if I could get something decent for less, I’d rather have a lower cost entry point in the beginning. Thanks!
Okay, I decided on a different LED that looks to have a decent description of color accuracy, tiny, and output.
Here’s my build lineup. I may throw in some glowing gaskets, etc., but what do you guys think in terms of a basic first go?
I feel pretty good about my choices. I’m not looking to reinvent the wheel. Hopefully I learn a bunch and can come back with a better project after this one.
You’ll need a different centering ring —off the top of my head I can’t remember which one works with the S2 reflector
XP-G2 / XP-E2 Plastic Butterfly Style Emitter Spacer / Insulator
https://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_82&product_id=242
You’ll need a different centering ring —off the top of my head I can’t remember which one works with the S2 reflector
https://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_82&product_id=174
https://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_82&product_id=242
Oh, thanks! A short would be bad
Always check from the + of the driver to the Host for a short before trying to put a cell in it —I’ve cooked a few drivers hurrying
Hello!
Good light platform to experiment with.
I really like adding a TIR, 60° or 45°. Heck, buy both. I like the 45° for better throw.
https://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=tir
What I like about these is:
I'd still use the insulator/centering ring for optimum vertical adjustment
Here's one of my posts with TIRs from another manufacturer:
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/37376/9586
Hello!
Good light platform to experiment with.
I really like adding a TIR, 60° or 45°. Heck, buy both. I like the 45° for better throw.
https://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=tir
What I like about these is:
the diffuse but focused (?… lol) pattern;
no issue with shorting the system with an aluminum reflector
I’d still use the insulator/centering ring for optimum vertical adjustment
Here’s one of my posts with TIRs from another manufacturer:
Thanks, I am pretty pleased with the setup. I’m a bit disappointed that the S2+ hosts seems to be out of stock in most cookies right now, but there’s always next time.
I’ll definitely be grabbing a diffuser, they look great.
I had to go elsewhere for the right sized spacer/insulator.
Now to get practicing on my soldering skills while I wait!
What kind of Soldering Iron/Station do you have
What kind of Soldering Iron/Station do you have
I know it’s not the best or anything, but I picked this up on Amazon. Cheap and hopefully will last a tiny bit.
Anbes Soldering Iron Kit… Amazon.com