One other question I had is regarding thermal compound/adhesive. I’ve, again, seen differing opinions about whether it is best to use thermal compound or a permanent bond with thermal adhesive. My gut is leaning toward thermal compound, so it is easier to make adjustments or completely change my build at any time.
Any recs on this?
I was going to buy Arctic Ceramique 2 Thermal Compound from Mtn. Electronics. It’s inexpensive and you get quite a bit for your money. I know many people recommend Arctic Silver 5 Premium Thermal Compound, but if I could get something decent for less, I’d rather have a lower cost entry point in the beginning.
For 3A maximum current it does not really matter. Unless you want to keep the light on turbo for a long time, heat dissipation is not a real issue for you.
You can use a 2$ thermal paste from AliExpress, it is a week adhesive so can be removed if you want to
Okay, I decided on a different LED that looks to have a decent description of color accuracy, tiny, and output.
Here’s my build lineup. I may throw in some glowing gaskets, etc., but what do you guys think in terms of a basic first go?
Convoy S2+ Flashlight Host - Black
— Convoy S2+ Flashlight Host - Black
— I couldn’t find orange … most colors seem to be out of stock in the states.
QLITE REV.A 7135*8 3.04A LED DRIVER - 17mm
— QLITE REV.A 7135*8 3.04A LED DRIVER - 17mm
— I am going to go with the *8 default, and the upgraded flash (guppydrv Universal)
Nichia 219C D280 on 16mm MTN DTP CU - 80+ CRI 3000K
— Nichia 219C D280 on 16mm MTN DTP CU - 80+ CRI 3000K
— R8000 CRI Rank (~80 CRI)
— 3000K 3-step MacAdam centered ellipse temperature
— Low vF allows for tons of output and easy regulation, even at high amps
— Similar output to an high-bin cool-white XP-G2, but with much better CRI and tint; also easier to hit 5A+ due to the extremely low vF requirement
I feel pretty good about my choices. I’m not looking to reinvent the wheel. Hopefully I learn a bunch and can come back with a better project after this one.
Thanks, I am pretty pleased with the setup. I’m a bit disappointed that the S2+ hosts seems to be out of stock in most cookies right now, but there’s always next time.
I’ll definitely be grabbing a diffuser, they look great.
I had to go elsewhere for the right sized spacer/insulator.
Now to get practicing on my soldering skills while I wait!
It’s an Amazon purchase…I can return for free. Do you have a different budget recommendation? I want to do it right, and if this soldering iron is going to give me poor results, I don’t want to use it.
I’ve been using these for years —- I use genuine HAKKO tips —- they work well and cheap enough to replace when they fail ( they last a couple years with moderate to heavy use)
So, I just got my build parts today, and I’m a bit disappointed. I bought a 17” driver to go along with the Convoy S2+, but the retaining ring doesn’t fit back on once the driver is seated. The 7135 chips are in the way.
Yes, that is common. Before the S2+ came out, there was the S2 & S6 and we all had to solder in the driver.
The 12 group, ramping and 4 mode 17mm drivers are easier to install in the S2+ and I like the retaining ring quite a bit. They do, however, come lose and you won't have the issue with soldering. You picked a good driver and Guppydrv is nice.
Okay, that makes sense. I looked into it a tiny bit, and it seems the soldering iron needs a bit of help with the thicker brass pill. Many people suggest preheating the pill somehow. I even saw a suggestion to use a butane torch and melt the solder directly, without the use of a soldering iron.
Have you found that a soldering iron won’t get the brass hot enough for a solid connection?
Sometimes I tin a couple of spots before assembly, using a torch. Then the two pieces can be sldered at the tinned spot with less trouble, less heat/time. An iron that can get real hot at highest setting with a broad flat tip helps.
If you do pretin be careful not to get solder running into the place where you want to fit the driver. If you do, that will need removal. Not a real big deal but nice to avoid if possible.
He could heat up the pill in an old pan, transfer with pliers to something that holds it steady and solder while still hot. Gotta move quickly but not necessarily frantically.
