TK's Emisar D4V2 review

Well was fun while it lasted, what was an intermittent issue is now permanent - the button is completely dead and non responsive :frowning:

My KR4/KR1 tubes work with the lanyard ring, so I think it was fixed at some point.

Emailed Intl- outdoors and had a reply offering to sell a replacement switch as its out of warranty - however the bezel is on tight and wont be easy to remove without causing damage :frowning:

You’ll probably need a new switch boot, too.

!

! looks like its irreparable. mangled the switch boot and a little red switch fell out

You need to get the retainer ring out, then grab the cables with some fine tweezers and resolder the button PCB. Obvioulsy you need a new switch boot, too.

I have one of those gold D4V2.

You’re in luck: you got the flush retaining ring so the light should be repairable. The flush retaining ring is removable. Unlike the raised retaining ring which I found impossible to budge.

  • Get a small Victorinox mini pocket knife, open the nail file.
  • The tip of the file should be a flat screwdriver with rounded edges.
  • Coming in from the side, insert it under the retaining ring just above where the rubber switchboot sat. Once it is wedged in, use it as a lever to lift up the retaining ring. The retaining ring is press-fit and should lever right up.

Next step is to desolder all the wires to the aux board and the star. Only attempt this if you have soldering skills and a fine tip for your soldering iron available. The wires to the aux LEDs are tiny. Before desoldering, take a picture so you can make sure to get every wire back to the right bondpad when reassembling.

After desoldering, remove the aux board and the star. Then insert a toothpick or other tool into the wire whole and push the driver out of the head. Once it is partially out you should be able to access to tiny wires which go to contacts on the underside of the red switch. Assuming those bondpads didn’t rip off the switch, soldering the switch wires back on. Reverse the process to reassemble.

Notes:

  • Since the rubber switch boot is destroyed you will need to obtain or make a replacement.
  • Also, if the switch retaining ring eroded the head coming out, you might find it may not stay in place. If you experience this try adding some super-glue gel between the retaining ring and head.
  • Due to the numerous small wires involved I wouldn’t recommend attempting this repair unless you’re an experienced modder. If not, you might want to contact Emisar about having them repair it.
  • It can be difficult threading the 4 aux board wires plus the 2 LED wires through the hole in the head and the star. If you have difficulty, solder some long narrow gauge guide wires onto the ends of the wires and then pull the guide wires through. Then desolder the guide wires.

Check out this very interesting mod where you can keep the auxiliary lights on by using the reflashing kit. Posted on Re-edit:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Hanklights/comments/oq5629/am_i_late_to_the_party_or_are_people_not_aware/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

I have had 4 Emisar / Noctigon torches stolen from me.... wish they would start putting serial numbers or BLE locating functionality inside. I am sure of where 2 went but have no way to prove. These cost a good bit of money and anything would help....

Wick

https:.//www.dtssav.com

I had the same thing happen to my D4V2 Ti and I emailed Hank... He sent me a brand new head to screw onto the battery tube, good customer service. Might be a bit of a wait, emailing in different time zones... shipping... but they corrected the issue.

Wick

https://www.dtssav.com

Try taking the magnet (if any) out of the tailcap and put a BLE beacon inside.

Hi, I’m planning to order D4V2, is samsung high cri led is an options for this flashlight via suggestions?

Thank you!

How have you had so many stolen? Do you leave them lying around or something?

how do i know what driver mine has/?its red on one side and white on the other

For anyone wondering, I inquired about clear lenses, and was told they will be available next week.

OMG this is the manker switch design that I HATE!

Is anyone else having problems programming their light they bought recently?

I could not get into the floor/ceiling menu when I first got it, and decided to just leave it as is. I tried again yesterday after practicing on my MF01S with no luck. The MF01S works great, but 4 clicks on the D4 results in locking the light (from on or off). This morning I did a factory reset and now I can’t even change the aux leds. I would post the firmware version, but don’t know how to do that.

You are likely in the simple UI of Anduril 2.

MF01S has Anduril UI.
A recently purchased D4v2 has Anduril 2

It’s a new & different UI, the button combinations for programming etc are totally different.

I did not realize there was a Ver2, and yes it was in simple mode

It took a lot of digging, but I finally figured out the programming sequence. Toykeepers sig links to the old version which is where I had already checked. You have to go to toykeeper.net. Also, the user manual does not explicitly describe how to go through the menu, but I did find a video that shows it being done. It’s nice to finally get moon mode working.

hope this helps someone