I don’t understand electronics
I will try R010 from stock + R020
As Freeman stated in post #10548, the converter is close to its limit. Haukkeli piggybacked a 20 mOhm but got 5.32 Amps. You will have to go the XHP35 modded driver (post #10555).
I get the pain of not having readily available parts that fit. It is part of the challenge.
i use simon’s 6v driver with sst70, i just need a little more current
Yes, that’s true. Most likely it’s possible to go little above the specs, but not that much.
With 10mOhm and 20mOhm piggyback and battery at ~4 volts it draw 8,9A from battery. So still within 10A switching limit. With lower voltages it might be a problem. 4V*8,9A=35,6W.
3,5V*X=35,6W —>
X=35,6W/3,5V —>
X=10,2A of current draw at 3,5V and that is about the boost converters maximum.
If anybody knows how it behaves after that, I’m happy to know.
Got a dud notification. I suppose someone deleted their post. It’s better to strikethrough as others may wish to follow the conversation. However, the Simple Post Editor has a bug in strikethrough shorthand as only valid within a single line, not an entire paragraph. A line break somehow confuses the mark-up. Never tried the Advanced Post Editor as too ‘fancy’ for my needs.
However, maybe the poster didn’t want to have his mistake be known – that’s fair. No big deal, just an annoyance.
Haven’t done much with flashlights lately, but decided to mod a Thrunite Ti3 V2 AAA with a 90+ CRI Nichia 219C. I like it a lot better now.
Has anyone tried this driver?淘宝网 - 淘！我喜欢 Maybe this manta ray can go higher. I have this other manta ray driverhttps://a.aliexpress.com/_uJQ8Tm pushing a sft40 over 10A and it is a blast
I think these are the best c8 size hosts to handle heat, there is a lot of material underneath the mcpcb. one sft40 and one sst70 with convoy drivers
€ 10,18 | Controlador 8A para KW CULPM1.TG
€ 9,87 | Controlador XHP70.2 para una celda
Nice builds Pacolux. I always looked the look of that MR c8.2. I just never carry lights that size. Your mod reminds me that I need to get my hands on some more SFT40s, stat. Hoping the mystery YINDING round emitters perform well and show up quickly. I’ve been denoting them in my build plans as YDpi…
I built MR C8.2 with Fet driver and dedomed XHP70.2. Almost 15A from tail at 6V is quite a number. 
I did same test rig for Kaidomain B70 boost driver. M4 bin XHP70.2 and Molicel P42 at 4,1V.
First with stock 10mOhm current sense resistor.
Then with 10 and 20 mOhm parallel
22% increase in output. Also stock driver performs better than Convoy’s one.
after a month of trying to get a nice center even beam on my FT03 sft40, i did it! its really good!
the TLDR -
I reamed the original large centering ring of the ft03 to just under 9mm, and snapped in the square 4040 centering ring simon sells ( i had extra) and what he uses in the L21a sft40. Now, its really good!
A good day of mods! See the link, here's the run down:
Left to right:
Gt Micro- Installed cslpm1, brighter and centered
Sofirn sc31T- installed CULPM1- much better
Reylight Pineapple- installed sw30, so much better
FT03- finally perfectly centered the sft40, took a month of tinkering, ended up being easy
Ft03- sfn55.2 - swapped in the smooth reflector, rhe throw is massively better! Will test it
I mod this one month ago with SFT like you. Try one week ago in the night and in this moment for me is the best thrower for Best Money/Meter/Beautiful/NO parasitic drain torch
I am so happy
Do you have a link to this metal switch mod ? I’d really like to see how you did it.
honestly, me too! Now that I have the beam centered and dialed in this is probably my favorite thrower. For size, ease-of-use, throw, and heat management plus battery life, I don't think this can be beat. price to, because I want to put one in a K-1 but that is twice as much money. I'll be interested to see if Astrolux has the beam centered well or if they use that stock centering ring which will not work properly
Here you go:
1. My first Emisar D4 lighted metal switch mod
2. Updated Emisar lighted metal switch with better lighting
Here’s a post that provides extra detail on how to make the metal button. This one is not lighted, but the process is the same. For the lighted version use a slightly smaller button so the silicone has a gap at the edge. And it is necessary to add a raised switchboot retaining ring since the stock ring is too flat:
3. Metal switch mod with no light, but more detailed instructions
Note that if you have the raised-ring Emisar D4v2 you may be out of luck. You can shave the boot down and glue a metal disk on top as-is, but at least on mine, I found that retaining ring impossible to remove.
Thanks for the links Firelight2 