How to Mod Sunwayman V11R or V10R Driver For More Current

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jon_slider
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I am not aware of what blinking problem you are experiencing.
Maybe describe, or post a video, showing what you mean.

Have you tried a fresh battery?

dutchguy2
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I believe that a lot of these models had that problem in the beginning.

It only occurs with a RCR123 or 16350 battery. When you turn the light to off with the control ring it goes off but the LED flashes now and then. The higher the voltage of the battery the more often it flashes. If you put in a normal CR123 everything is okay.

So, in my opinion, it clearly has to do with the higher voltage of the battery and there might be a electronical component that is leaking current to the LED.

I was wondering if someone found out what the exact problem was and how to fix it.

Scallywag
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I’ve got a few questions. I was swapping the LED on my V10R Ti+ today and I got the funky smell to come out of the driver. I want to put the magic smoke back in, as they say. and I believe I’ve traced it to the schottky diode labelled “14” from Moderator007’s first post. I believe the LED- wire intermittently shorted to ground.

1. Does it make sense that the Schottky diode in question would take the hit? Is there anything else I should order at the same time “just in case”? Anything else I can test easily with a multimeter? The diode is definitely dead – it is deformed Wink
2. I can’t find the schottky diode that Moderator007 recommended in stock anywhere. I’d be fine with an equivalent to the stock diode, since I’m not trying to increase current. I’d prefer to stick with Mouser. Ideally something in-stock, or at least expected during November at the latest. Purchasable in small quantities of course (10 max). I’d be fine purchasing a small sampling of up to about 5 different diodes for trial and error if necessary.
3. I’m tempted to replace the 4.7µH inductor as well, since it looks… funkier than the one Moderator007 has pictured. And they’re cheap enough, and I’ll already be in there. Is there any reason not to use the “upgrade” inductor Moderator007 used? Given that his post is three years old by now, is there a better option?

Scallywag
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Scallywag wrote:
I’ve got a few questions. I was swapping the LED on my V10R Ti+ today and I got the funky smell to come out of the driver. I want to put the magic smoke back in, as they say. and I believe I’ve traced it to the schottky diode labelled “14” from Moderator007’s first post. I believe the LED- wire intermittently shorted to ground.

1. Does it make sense that the Schottky diode in question would take the hit? Is there anything else I should order at the same time “just in case”? Anything else I can test easily with a multimeter? The diode is definitely dead – it is deformed Wink
2. I can’t find the schottky diode that Moderator007 recommended in stock anywhere. I’d be fine with an equivalent to the stock diode, since I’m not trying to increase current. I’d prefer to stick with Mouser. Ideally something in-stock, or at least expected during November at the latest. Purchasable in small quantities of course (10 max). I’d be fine purchasing a small sampling of up to about 5 different diodes for trial and error if necessary.
3. I’m tempted to replace the 4.7µH inductor as well, since it looks… funkier than the one Moderator007 has pictured. And they’re cheap enough, and I’ll already be in there. Is there any reason not to use the “upgrade” inductor Moderator007 used? Given that his post is three years old by now, is there a better option?


I just went with the BAT60A. I also ordered the “upgrade” inductor, and the single-cap upgrade (C2012×5R1A226K125AB) linked later in the thread. (I ordered another schottky diode to try if BAT60A didn’t work, and some spare Pam2803 just in case. I initially replaced just the Schottky diode, but no love. My guess was the inductor was bad too, so I removed the stock one – and it came off in two pieces. Clearly, it had suffered as well. So I replaced it with the upgrade version SRP5030CA-4R7M (and for good measure I swapped in the C2012×5R1A226K125AB at the same time) and the light’s function is restored. I checked it in boost mode with the AA extender and an actual alkaleak that was lying on my desk, and that worked too.
jon_slider
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Scallywag wrote:
the light’s function is restored
Congratulations! Grad Crown Beer Thumbs Up
moderator007
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Scallywag wrote:
Scallywag wrote:
I’ve got a few questions. I was swapping the LED on my V10R Ti+ today and I got the funky smell to come out of the driver. I want to put the magic smoke back in, as they say. and I believe I’ve traced it to the schottky diode labelled “14” from Moderator007’s first post. I believe the LED- wire intermittently shorted to ground.

1. Does it make sense that the Schottky diode in question would take the hit? Is there anything else I should order at the same time “just in case”? Anything else I can test easily with a multimeter? The diode is definitely dead – it is deformed Wink
2. I can’t find the schottky diode that Moderator007 recommended in stock anywhere. I’d be fine with an equivalent to the stock diode, since I’m not trying to increase current. I’d prefer to stick with Mouser. Ideally something in-stock, or at least expected during November at the latest. Purchasable in small quantities of course (10 max). I’d be fine purchasing a small sampling of up to about 5 different diodes for trial and error if necessary.
3. I’m tempted to replace the 4.7µH inductor as well, since it looks… funkier than the one Moderator007 has pictured. And they’re cheap enough, and I’ll already be in there. Is there any reason not to use the “upgrade” inductor Moderator007 used? Given that his post is three years old by now, is there a better option?


I just went with the BAT60A. I also ordered the “upgrade” inductor, and the single-cap upgrade (C2012×5R1A226K125AB) linked later in the thread. (I ordered another schottky diode to try if BAT60A didn’t work, and some spare Pam2803 just in case. I initially replaced just the Schottky diode, but no love. My guess was the inductor was bad too, so I removed the stock one – and it came off in two pieces. Clearly, it had suffered as well. So I replaced it with the upgrade version SRP5030CA-4R7M (and for good measure I swapped in the C2012×5R1A226K125AB at the same time) and the light’s function is restored. I checked it in boost mode with the AA extender and an actual alkaleak that was lying on my desk, and that worked too.

I like these kind of success stories, glad you got it working again, In a short or over voltage condition the 3 componets I mentioned in the op all see the load, so that’s where to look first if there’s no visible problem. The BAT60A should work fine, if I remember correctly the one I recommended has a slightly lower resistance but the BAT60A is pretty low also. Glad you got it working again. Wink
Scallywag
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Thanks Moderator007. It’s been working great since, and looking great too with the sw45k. And re-lubing has only been positive as well. My grease was thicker than whatever was in there before, but it isn’t locking up at all on me. And now I know how easy it is to re-lube too, so I won’t worry if it happens again.

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