What did you mod today?

Ghetto reflow with tealight candle of 3 Samsung LH351D 2700K 90CRI on different MCPCB :
It really works great (I was extremely surprised how easy it went!), the hardest part is to get rid of the carbon deposition on the back of the MCPCB after the soldering is complete

Sofirn HS05 :

HD20 and SP40 got their swap too. … and I also reflowed an Osram flat green in plae of the Osram flat white of a Convoy C8+

from left to right :

Wurkkos HD20 (stock flood : LH351D 500k, modded spot : LH351D 2700K 90CRI)
Manker E03HII (stock)
Convoy S2+ (modded, Osram flat white)
Sofirn SP40 (modded, Samsung LH351D 4000K 90CRI)
Sofirn SP40 (modded, Samsung LH351D 2700K 90CRI + diffuser film)
Sofirn HS05 (modded, Samsung LH351D 2700K 90CRI + diffuser film)

bottom :
Convoy C8+ (modded, Osram flat green)

M1 is way too small for this emitter. Like with all tiny reflectors (compared to the size of the emitter) it will show all negative in LED.

Try it in C8+ or some bigger model and you will see it in true colors.

Simon himself offers M21B with Xhp50.2. M1 has same reflector and it is fine with XHP50.2. The beam itself isn’t that bad with XHP50.3. It is just ugly green.

I have four different XHP50.3’s and I have tried two of them. 4000K, 90cri and 80cri and both very green. Their tint isn’t, in my opinion, improvement over Xhp50.2. I have tried C chromaticity binned 4000K 80cri Xhp50.2 from Kaidomain and it is much more pleasurable tint.

It is usually quite easy to get rid of blue center or at least get it less noticeable. Just need to do some adjusting to reflector height. Different gaskets etc.

M21B/M1 reflector also works fine with XHP70.2. Just don’t expect much throw.

Yes, I like to experiment on my spare time. :slight_smile:

Nice job m47mu74nt! Just goes to show how easy it is to reflow LEDs.

To make sure MCPCBs are flat, I put some fine grit sandpaper on a small mirror and sand it down. That would also remove the carbon deposit. I’m always surprised when it appears the MCPCB is flat, sanding it down will usually show some spots that aren’t.

V10R w 3000K 219B
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I have built many throwers with high CRI LEDs for hiking on trails at night. I am rarely looking at objects 300m away. Nature looks much nicer in high CRI.

I’ve experienced this with XP-L HI 4000K as well. I picked up a few from Mouser a while back and they are easily some of the rosiest 4000K LEDs I’ve ever seen. However, when I try to photograph them they always come out looking extremely green.

It must have something to do with the spectrum that Cree’s phosphors are emitting and the sensitivity of the digital camera sensor to different wavelengths.

Thank you for the tip ! sanding solves both things at once ! (although I am not that concerned of the MCPCB not being perfectly flat : the NT-H1 is more than enough for the small amount of heat dissipated, and I did not have issues with emitter centering yet)

Regarding hi cri thrower- good to know :)) I just get angry sometimes lol.

regarding xpl-hi 4000k - THANK YOU. It is literally the only led that this happens to when I photograph it! And I thought I was going crazy. It's like sst20 4000k looks ROSIER when I photo it. Other 4000k like nichia look accurate, but xpl-hi just looks awful, even tho in real life they are some of the nicest leds I have.

also, I wonder if mouser still has that bin? I have come to understand that (I think) 5d-1 abd 5d-4 are the nicest tinted xpl-hi 4000k (rosiest I mean, also maybe cooler than) while 5d2 and 5d3 are more yellow, and warmer.

same with 5a.

habk recently had told me in an email he has (had?) 5d2... yellowish I can confirm.

the Nicest xpl-hi 5d I ever got was from Hank this past February, Perfect rosiness. By the time I got the light, I ordered another with the same xpl-hi and they were yellow. The buns obviously change often. Or hIs do.

I got some pretty nice ones in my dt8 and bare ones for my E07x from Hank this July.

both of which I didn't know to ask if it were 5d1, 5d2, 5d3, 5d4. ..

does mouser distinguish which it has like this? Thanks!

> I didn’t know to ask if it were 5d1, 5d2, 5d3, 5d4

you might enjoy owning a tool that can actually measure the Tint DUV of your LEDs

Im finding it very useful… here is one example, that shows me the Tint DUV of 219b 3500k, which I have always found lacking in pinkness… now I have a number to show that the Tint DUV is not below the BBL, and it all makes better sense:
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I’d like to swap (again) my HD20 spotlight emitter, this time I want a green emitter : as I’d want to reuse the HD20 original MCPCB (that is not standard 16mm) I need a 3535 LED.
Does anybody know where I can find a decent 3535 Green LED that could replace the XPL-HD (or the LH351D I just put there) ?
3030 Osram is a no go as I can’t put it on the original MCPCB :frowning:

> Does anybody know where I can find a decent 3535 Green LED

XP-E2 Green

Not sure it will survive being pushed by the HD20 driver? (that driver should push more than an amp to get the actual XPL-HD at 1300lm)

Hm…

My latest batch of SST-20s arrived from Kaidomain. These are supposed to be FD2 like my last 2 batches, but the tint on the first one I tried is noticeably greener. Looks more like the SST-20s that came with FWAA. And definitely not FD2.

I’ll have to try some of the other emitters from this order, but I hope all 15 aren’t as bad.

Have considered slicing it?
DUV should decrease, but you have to do 3 Leds :weary:

Tinkered with my TCR-01 last weekend.

  • Swapped OP reflector for a TIR. I used a TIR reflector from a DQG Tiny III. I had to file down the upper edges of the TIR to get it to fit. The beam has a few rings and is uglier, but the central hotspot appears more intense so throw is probably improved. Also the spill just gradually fades out. No sharp ring where the spill just ends like with the reflector. This should also be more durable than stock since there is no glass lens to shatter. I may well revert to the OP reflector for the smoother beam profile, but for now I’ll try this TIR.
  • Replaced the clip with a modified Convoy clip. Clip length is now just below the control ring. The new clip’s color matches the polished Ti light better than the steel or brushed Titanium Jetbeam clips. And it is thicker and feels more secure. It is longer than the short Jetbeam clip, but shorter than the long Jetbeam clip.

These are what I used in my green S2+ build

I had already posted these on BLF back in 2015, but that was before this thread was started and I still use both of these lights regularly.

3x XP-L SpiderFire C2

Coast HP1 3x Nichia 219C - Original mod had an older type of Samsung LED and I upgraded it some time after this thread.

I’m currently working on a few lights, including swapping out the XP-L HI in my Sunwayman V10R for a 219B sw45k, and swapping out the 4x XP-L HI in my Emisar D4 for 4x LH351D 5000k.

Replaced the glass lens in my Acebeam TK17 Ti with a UCL acrylic lens.

I found it a little strange that a light that looks like it is built like a tank had a 20mm glass lens that was just 1mm thick. Seemed very fragile. I chose a UCL acrylic lens as I knew I could file down the edges so it would fit in the available space while being a lot more resistant to impacts.

I lucked out with my order from Flashlightlens.com too. I ordered 2 lenses, but they sent me 4. :sunglasses:

Incidentally, the only other flashlight manufacturer that I know of who uses 1mm thick glass lenses in anything larger than the tiniest keychain light is Zebralight.

Mouser doesn’t differentiate tint bin codes, just Mfr part numbers. It’s luck of the draw. The ones I ordered were XPLAWT-H0-0000-000BV20E5 (highest flux bin; 70 CRI min).

The sw35 in my Bob McBob SC64c is quite pink.
CCT: 3500K | Ra: 97 | R9: 94 | Duv: –0.003

flashed fw1a, 2x fw3a with my fork of anduril 2, and reflowed from xpl hi 6500k -> 219c 5000k in fw1a, and 219c 4000k -> 219b sw45k in fw3t.