Sounds like you should make a little mount to hold the IR gun hands free 
Looks great though. I love this kind of stuff
I built Convoy L6 quad with 4 XHP70.2’s and fet driver. Reflector and leds are from Kaidomain. Driver nd switch from MTN Electronics. I made aluminium spacer for 4 20mm mcpcb’s. It took lot’s of measuring and patience to get everything to fit together. Finally it’s done to be never used. 
It looks good and I got a chuckle from your honesty . 
Very nice work haukkeli! That must generate a serious amount of light!
Here is the reflector if some else wants to build similar. Spacer is from 50mm round stock. I machined grooves for pcb’s for easier assembly and made the spacer so that it gradually narrows towards the original shelf. I also bolted the spacer to reflector with leds in between, so that I could drop the whole package in. Cable management was the most difficult part of this project.
I haven’t actually tried it outside yet. Seem’s to be bright. Batteries are the limiting factor. Enerqic 5200mAh with 18A continuos discharge.
Nice work, Haukkeli!
Last night I successfully swapped a 219b SW45k into my Sunwayman V10R. I like it better than the cool white XP-L HI that was in there, and is still plenty bright. The low now goes down so far, I have to look at the LED to tell that it’s on.
Today, I swapped emitters in the Drop Blue Titanium AAA I received a couple days ago in the mail, which unfortunately wasn’t the 219C version. The XP-G3 it came with was one of the worst tints ever. Now it has a 219C 4000k and is much more useful. Head was glued so heated it up with a torch first and it loosened up.
Looks good Lotus_Darkrose. Where did you get the 219C 4500K from?
Thanks, and good catch, lol. It’s actually 4000k, just edited my post. It’s from mtnelectronics.com, I bought several.
I also worked on a few more flashlights today. I swapped in a 219C 4000k into a AAA Coast G22 flashlight, and added a diffuser as the reflector had an ugly beam.
I had a SS SingFire 14500 flashlight laying around, and also put a 219C 4000k into that, along with a 45 degree TIR.
Ahh bummer. I was hoping there was a 4500K 219C out there for my next flashlight mod that I wasn’t aware of.
LED swap in a Skilhunt H300. Previous LED was cold white and low CRI. Used an XHP50.3 4000K 90 CRI from Digikey. DUV is a little positive (slightly green) but overall much nicer.
The stainless bezel had little divots, but I couldn’t get it unscrewed using normal tools so I designed and 3D printed a tool to remove it. Worked perfectly!
Note: picture was taken before the swap
Calculated DUV: +0.0069
Wow great thinking !
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Awesome! So these are 12V configuration?
I would guess they’re 6V, but the 6V/12V LEDs are the same I believe, it’s just a difference in which pads the MCPCB uses.
Attempted to fix my Eagletac DX3B mini.
Nice handy little light, but mine had some flaws:
- Gigantic parasitic drain. So much so that I suspect the light was defective. It would actually drain a full 18350 in less than 24 hours while off. This is pretty gamebreaking, because the only way to avoid it is to do a tailcap lockout, which I hate doing.
- Charging port hatch cover is poorly designed. It sticks out, is flimsy, and doesn’t lock into place securely. Not a big issue since the cover is optional. The port itself is waterproof according to Eagletac so the cover is just there to keep lint out.
I noticed that current flowed between the positive and negative pads on the bottom of the driver when the head was not connected to power. I got around 400 ohms resistance, which seemed high.
I managed to remove the driver, but in doing so I ripped off the 3 tiny wires for the charging port. Oops! Even worse, they were so tiny that even after spending 15 minutes with a magnifying glass I could only find one of the bondpads that they were attached to. I ended up permanently disabling the charging port by clipping off its wires.
This light was a royal pain to reassemble. I have no idea how they managed to assemble the thing at the factory. The plastic jacket that sits inside the rubber switch presses so firmly against the switch on the driver board, I was barely able to get it in even after filing the corners down.
Without the charging port attached, resistance between the positive and negative pads on the bottom of the driver jumped to 685,000 ohms. Hopefully, this means less parasitic drain. My cheap mini DMM doesn’t measure current so I’ll stick a cell inside tonight and see what the charge looks like tomorrow.
Guess I’ll also epoxy over the charging port since it’s no longer functional.
I like it but I would like it better if it could have proper MCPCB fixation. I mean is it possible to have absolutely firm MCPCB with some kind of magnet or other type of fixation?
Yes 2 hands are better than one but only if mcpcb is fixated… If mcpcb is wandering around on touch(emitter centering, final tap press) it is still better to do Old Lumens method with small benchvise and big soldering iron tip beneath mcpcb (regulation over soldering Iron station is possible).
But I would like your system better only if there is possibility of MCPCB fixation. Because we don’t actually have 2 free arms if I got to hold MCPCB with one hand and then centering with other (for emitter centering and final tap or press)?
A magnet would not work as copper stars are non magnetic. You would need some kind of clamp or screws.
Yes you are right! I would like Djozz system but with any kind of MCPCB fixation method.
Kapton tape should hold up for a bit