Overview: Dual-Channel Emisar D4SV2 + The Latest Firmware Features

There’s been a lot of excitement for the new dual-channel Emisar lights over the past few weeks. This video serves as a quick overview of the lights and their features, with an explanation of the operation + plenty of beamshots.

The video features two Emisar D4SV2 lights, one with Nichia 219b SW27/SW45K, and one with Cree XP-L HD/Osram CSLNM1 (“W1”) emitters. The same driver and features are also available on the D4V2 and the KR4.

This is actually the second (updated) version of this video, featuring some of ToyKeeper’s latest improvements to Anduril 2, which allows for both channel-switching and tint-ramping operation in the same firmware, a big change to the previous versions which were only one or the other. There are a few more changes in Anduril itself. There is also the official user manual, which covers all the features of Anduril 2.

The most significant changes:

  • Before, there were two seperate builds for either the tint-ramping or channel-switching functions, but they are now both available in the same build.
  • Turbo has also been improved, now running both channels @ 100% in either switching or ramping operation.

Some of the recent changes (per ToyKeeper):

The D4S and D4 are using the same firmware, while the KR4 uses its own build. The software is of course available from ToyKeeper’s site:
https://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril2/

D4SV2 & D4VS:
0135 emisar-d4sv2-tintramp
0136 emisar-d4sv2-tintramp-fet

KR4:
0215 noctigon-kr4-tintramp

There is a tint-ramp build available for the K9.3 as well, though things don’t seem to be finalized there yet.

Between the d4 and kr4, which has the best cooling capabilities and runtimes?

Thanks LuxWad

Another great video. Man, all those choices are a little intimidating.

Haha yeah, there’s so many options it’s very difficult to choose a configuration!

The KR4 has slightly better thermals, but the advantage is mostly ergonomics since the switch is at the tail, away from the heat in the head. The output and runtimes will be the same

So, mostly an estetic preference then, thank you!

Good review, as usual, LuxWad. I picked up both a D4SV2 and a KR4 with 2700k/4500k 219b. The beam is extra nice and rosy jon_slider is going to love it. The new features in Andruil 2 are awesome, you did a great job ToyKeeper!

Good video. I will have to share this as questions come up from others. I think a lot of people will find it helpful.

This is awesome. Thanks for sharing, LuxWad.

Thank you LuxWad. I’m very excited!

Great review!

I purchased one with the warmest and coolest available SST-20s in it for tint ramping.

I’m tempted to order another for dual-channel use with one throwy LED such as White 1, and a more diffuse LED such as Nichia 219B or LH351D.

Nice video. Unfortunately, the overly complex UI will be even more complex now.

I’m thinking 3500k nichia and w1 osram. Is this stupid? I’m thinking super nice beautiful beam for one channel nice throwy beam for the other channel and I’m hoping combining the two will give me some decent tint ramping is that feasible or is the low CRI of the W1 going to make the beam look grimy?

I’ve got W1’s and SST20 4000K’s.

I find tint ramping to be almost entirely useless with this emitter configuration. It’s great when you’ve got the same emitter in different color temperatures, but with different emitters and beam profiles the ramping just isn’t useful.

Instant switching is much more useful. I sanded the face of my optic over the SST20’s with high grit sandpaper to make them more floody, and now I can instant switch between throw and flood. I highly recommend a setup like this.

The Nichia 219B 3500K’s you’re considering would be a fine choice. They’ll look nicer than the SST20’s I’ve got. You might even consider a 2700K/4500K tint mix on your flood channel to get some extra-rosiness.

I have two tint-ramping lights that use high-CRI for the warm LEDs and low-CRI for the cool white leds (FW4X, and Sofirn IF25).

It actually works great. The low-CRI isn’t that noticeable except at the coolest end of the spectrum.

A larger issue might be the different beam patterns, since w1 is throwier than Nichia. But I think it would probably work ok. Main thing is most of your tint ramping will be in the center of your hotspot.

Thanks for the input. I might just have to get five or six of these lights and try out a whole bunch of configurations :smiley:

That’s a lot easier then deciding on 1. Whatever I choose I’m pretty certain to have a case of buyers regret. I may end up with at least 2. Too many choices and possibilities.

Which do you think you’ll end up getting first?

Buyers remorse is built into having so many choices .....

The only bad decision is not buying one

Tint ramping and dual channel is a game changer .

Soo, is the driver still the good ol' FET + N linear regulators.. ? Or is it now finally an efficient buck ? (which would be my only incentive to buy this light for the 3rd time.. :| )

Also, too bad the side switch only has a single color option and not much practical use (all I care is for the "AUX" LED's to move from the business end into the switch to indicate stuff like the batt lvl.)

I would go Sofirn style on the indicator switch light which stays on for ~5 sec. when light is powered on indicating the batt. lvl. in a red <to> green "spectrum" (red > orange > yellow > lime > green)

I would use the "extra" Blue color as an indicator aid while navigating menus instead or along with the main emitters "buzz" (also maybe even use it as a switch "beacon"/"locator" as other lights)

Basically I'd remove the possibility to blind oneself while playing with the AUX lights which are now on the same side as the.. business.. "blinding end" and use the powers of RGB to do.. practical stuff

To me the AUX lights as they are implemented right now are just a gimmick and serve no practical purpose than.. well, "Auxiliary drain" :)) and maybe a bit of fun for 5 minutes when you first get the light.

Cheers!