I send email to info@niteye.com on 6 november, and still no response...
With 0.08A drain, it won't last a day on 18350. if I only turn the ring to off.
Sad you got a defective light
with the dial all the way turned off, it is not normal for the battery to die overnight… the calculation for normal drain suggests it takes more than 2 years… your light is defective
I would return for refund to the vendor I bought the light from… the Vendor is where your warranty remedy lies, since they made the sale and took your money
or
you can contact info@jetbeamlight.com if you want to buy a replacement driver, it will cost you about $20 with shipping
I doubt they will give it to you for free, since you are not their customer (the Vendor is their customer)… but, you can ask if you want to…
just trying to point out the difference in responsibility of a Vendor and a Manufacturer… it follows the money
the fastest way to get a Vendor to answer your email is to use the Paypal dispute process, for a Product that is Defective or Not as Described… Paypal Dispute will show you a special email that the Vendor is more responsive to… they dont want to lose their paypal privileges
and paypal will pay your return shipping, though possibly the vendor will let you keep the defective light… and still give 100% refund
so just return it…
I will be glad to answer return process questions if there is anything you dont understand yet…
Will wait for jetbeam response, I send email to info@jetbeamlight.com today to.
The problem is, jetbeam don't list the official distributors, sellers stores, and I don't know if Mytukex where I bought it is one of them (and shipping it back to China would be a pain, and cost).
I had to buy it on aliexpress, because there's no way to buy it in my country (all stores I found, where shipping from china, or not shipping to Poland, like amazon)
So far last 2 years with 18 flashlights bought I had:
1) convoy S9 with cross threaded driver (it works, but there's like 2mm gap from the reflection to glass, not very usable), got second S9 one from banggood for free
2) lumintop B01 with head stuck to the tube (can't unscrew it), got 50% refund (that's what i asked, but couldn't give is as present), for now it's working, don't know how good that connection is, the threads are anodized.
3) mateminco MTY1 improper assembled (glass, or reflector was rattling, fixed it, but damaged my reflector while cleaning it, my fault). I didn't place a dispute, because I was able to fix it, and destroyed reflector on my own. Mateminco wasn't very helpful
4) lumintop EDC18 copper with defect on the knurling. I didn't place a dispute, because it was manufacture fault, and I bought it not from official lumintop store on aliexpress (they didn't sold it on official lumintop store yet)
5) lumintop FW21 PRO with jamming tail switch, official lumintop store on aliexpress send me second whole tail, I just had to pay 1$ for the shipping, and it's working fine with new tail.
6) skilhunt E3A black with bad threading, the friction is so bad, that I can't turn it on with one hand, the second blue one that I have is ok. I didn't place a dispute, because I can't rely prove it.
7) and now this jetbeam rrt 01 raptor 2020 with bad driver? extremely high drain with wheel on off
8) there was also a mateminco mt35 mini-s on osram led with high parasitic drain, but that is in all of them, so it just bad design, not random fault. Got refunded full by aliexpress (I was not aware of that problem when buying it)
is it really that bad for everyone?
it is not that bad for me, I dont use AliEx, and I do use Paypal
maybe the Ali lights are customer returns from other sales channels, so the number of real defects is higher
all my lights have worked correctly when they arrived,
the lights I have that are broken, are the ones I broke myself… lol
and one that I bought broken, (but I knew it was broken)
it kills two AA batteries in 3 days…
the seller said it must be unscrewed to turn off
(he was right, I thought I could fix it but was unable):
Nitecore D20 on bottom
I did break an RRT-01, more than once (driver wire twisted and broke, your model does not have that issue),
but I paid my way out of that problem… buying a new driver is cheaper than admitting defeat, or buying a new light
oh, and I got a FWAA with one LED slightly dimmer than the others… seller ignored me… I decided not to dispute and just change the LEDs… it still has one slightly different than the other… but I stopped caring…
I hope you get your light fixed. I think it is worth it… Im one of the biggest fans of the RRT-01… I hope you get to enjoy one… with a High CRI LED 
its only money, and you are within $20 of UI Nirvana… lol
there's a hope, they go back to me from info@jetbeamlight.com within 12 hours, so maybe just info@niteye.com email is slow to respond.
"Hello
Our engineer checked the problem with the driver board, and we resend a complete head to you.
Sending needs to provide the complete address, recipient, state, city, address, phone number, zip code, which country"
Yay
congratulations!
well done
I hope it arrives soon and solves the high drain problem
please let us know
"We are in China, so we don't need to send back bad heads. Shipment will be arranged one week later, and you will be given a tracking number after shipment."
So I just had to email info@jetbeamlight.com, not the info@niteye.com that is for EU region. Even though I'm in EU
Will update when it arrived, and will do drain measurements again.
posting to consolidate parasitic drain (standby drain), and moonlight drain info:
How long will the RRT-01 last with an 1200mah battery, if the light is used as a nightlight, 24/7 on a very very low output level?
I think the answer is less than a week
for reference, the standby drain is confirmed to be about 30 micro amps,
and would last about 4 years w a 1200mah battery…
I hope I got those numbers right…
Happy Holy Days
TCR-1 w 219b 3000k :heart_eyes:
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1 Thank
FWIW, mine uses about 20 mA at the lowest visible firefly level… like when it’s so dim it’s barely even visible with fully-adjusted night vision while pointed directly at the eye point-blank. It’s like 0.0001 lumens. With a common 650mAh 16340 cell, this would last for about 1.3 days… or with a 1150mAh 18350 cell it’d be about 2.4 days.
For comparison, an Emisar D4 generally runs at about 1.7 mA on moon (~0.2 lm), which would last about 16 to 28 days on the same battery.
2.4 days
thanks for your help with the math
I ain’t smart enough to understand all that stuff, but I know why I love my D4 even more. I jusss don’t unnastand it all. Kinda like luv ain’t it?
Really I do appreciate all the work you folks do for these lights we enjoy. Seriously Toykepper etc. I truly appreciate it from the wheels of my wheelchair.
David
The math wasn’t wrong. My RRT01 just apparently uses twice as much power on firefly, compared to djozz’s RRT01. So it has half the runtime.
my personal test showed my RRT-01 died in 3 days when left on 24/7 on firefly (nightlight) use.
I think we all agree that once the RRT-01 is ON, the drain is much higher than when it is in Standby
not a problem, since I learned not to use the RRT-01 as a nightlight. In standby the parasitic drain lasts more than 2 years. In my normal use pattern I recharge long before the parasitic drain could kill a cell.
I got it 24.02.
The new one do a high pitched click when maxing out the magnetic ring.
off 25μA
1 lumen mode 24mA
full on 1.5A
That looks good.
on high
on low
and pwm
How common is it for 2019/2020 RRT01s to flicker on low levels? Is this an issue with both stock lights and modded lights?
short answer:
I think it is common for there to be visible flicker, if I look very closely, in all the 2019 and 2020 drivers.
long answer:
I tried to eliminate the flicker in one of my lights that had a 2020 driver, by trying different LEDs. It made no difference
stock XM-L, sw45k, sw30, 519a 4500K, they all flickered w a 2020 driver
I swapped in a 2019 driver… it made no difference, still flickered
I asked a couple of modder friends about their RRT-01 lights. the ones w 2019 and 2020 drivers… all flicker. The combined total of lights that flicker is about a dozen.
our drivers that do not flicker are from 2011 and 2012, a sample of about 5 lights.
I have not seen this documented anywhere, these are just my own personal observations and those of a couple people I know.
some driver feture change history:
1. the original 2011 driver has no strobe. Initially rated 500 lumens, later models 600 lumens. I believe the output increase was due solely to a change in LED model.
2. the 2012 driver adds strobe, it was used in some RRT-01, also in the NiteEye Eye10, and in the Jetbeam TCR-1 (the titanium RRT-01). These were still claimed 600 lumen on packaging. (and I find that is ballpark accurate on my homebrew meter)
3. The 2019 driver output claim writen on the packaging is 950 lumens (they tend to test a bit lower). I believe the increase is due to a component change in the driver. 2019 drivers also have strobe, like the 2012 driver. The 2019 host is a redesign, with a heavy brass pill, but the drivers are still the same size and interchangeable w 2011 and 2012 drivers.
4. The 2020 driver adds a tailswitch (no tailswitch on the earlier models), and a thermal step down component to the driver (still claimed 950 lumens on the package, like the 2019 driver, and still has strobe like 2012). The 2020 host is a redesign, the control ring gets a lubrication hole so no disassembly is required. The drivers are still the same size and interchageable with earlier models.
we can still buy 2019 and 2020 drivers, but not the 2011 nor 2012 drivers
in this pic left to right Niteye Eye10, 2011 RRT-01, TCR-1, Niteye Eye10
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in this pic is the Niteye Eye10 TiC on left, the Ti version of the Niteye Eye10:
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the Niteye models have fins on the head, in the case of the Eye10 TiC, they are factory drilled and tritted
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l-r Sunwayman V10r Ti, Niteye Eye10 TiC, Jetbeam TCR-1, Russtang EX10 Ti:
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fwiw, the Sunwayman V10r Ti, on left, does not flicker, nor do the aluminium version, the V11r.
Sunwayman drivers are different than the Jetbeam/Niteye drivers, not interchangeable. The Sunwaymans use a tailswitch.
My only 2019 RRT01 doesn’t flicker, neither before nor after modding.
just to admit when Im mistaken, and confused
Im having trouble showing flicker in a video of this 2020 driver. Not sure why:
[video: 519a dd sn45 w 2020 driver, flicker not obvious - YouTube ]
here is what the Opple sees:
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otoh, here is a video of a 2020 driver that does show obvious flicker:
[video: sw45k 2020 driver flicker - YouTube ]
and what the Opple sees:
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fwiw, I tried swapping the batteries in the two lights in the videos… It did not make a difference, the sw45k w 2020 driver flickered obviously with both batteries, and the 519a w 2020 driver I could not see obvious flicker w either battery.
Yeah, the opple can’t see anything because the pulsing is of low frequency and disappears on anything higher than moon mode like power. I was able to catch it once, and it’s a rectangular signal modulated on the ripple.
My 2012 RRT01 is the only light that does this. My EYE10 is ok, too. But my statistics is small. Exactly 1.