So, mostly an estetic preference then, thank you!
Good review, as usual, LuxWad. I picked up both a D4SV2 and a KR4 with 2700k/4500k 219b. The beam is extra nice and rosy jon_slider is going to love it. The new features in Andruil 2 are awesome, you did a great job ToyKeeper!
Good video. I will have to share this as questions come up from others. I think a lot of people will find it helpful.
This is awesome. Thanks for sharing, LuxWad.
Thank you LuxWad. I’m very excited!
Great review!
I purchased one with the warmest and coolest available SST-20s in it for tint ramping.
I’m tempted to order another for dual-channel use with one throwy LED such as White 1, and a more diffuse LED such as Nichia 219B or LH351D.
Nice video. Unfortunately, the overly complex UI will be even more complex now.
I’m thinking 3500k nichia and w1 osram. Is this stupid? I’m thinking super nice beautiful beam for one channel nice throwy beam for the other channel and I’m hoping combining the two will give me some decent tint ramping is that feasible or is the low CRI of the W1 going to make the beam look grimy?
I’ve got W1’s and SST20 4000K’s.
I find tint ramping to be almost entirely useless with this emitter configuration. It’s great when you’ve got the same emitter in different color temperatures, but with different emitters and beam profiles the ramping just isn’t useful.
Instant switching is much more useful. I sanded the face of my optic over the SST20’s with high grit sandpaper to make them more floody, and now I can instant switch between throw and flood. I highly recommend a setup like this.
The Nichia 219B 3500K’s you’re considering would be a fine choice. They’ll look nicer than the SST20’s I’ve got. You might even consider a 2700K/4500K tint mix on your flood channel to get some extra-rosiness.
I have two tint-ramping lights that use high-CRI for the warm LEDs and low-CRI for the cool white leds (FW4X, and Sofirn IF25).
It actually works great. The low-CRI isn’t that noticeable except at the coolest end of the spectrum.
A larger issue might be the different beam patterns, since w1 is throwier than Nichia. But I think it would probably work ok. Main thing is most of your tint ramping will be in the center of your hotspot.
1 Thank
Thanks for the input. I might just have to get five or six of these lights and try out a whole bunch of configurations 
That’s a lot easier then deciding on 1. Whatever I choose I’m pretty certain to have a case of buyers regret. I may end up with at least 2. Too many choices and possibilities.
Which do you think you’ll end up getting first?
Buyers remorse is built into having so many choices .....
The only bad decision is not buying one
Tint ramping and dual channel is a game changer .
Soo, is the driver still the good ol' FET + N linear regulators.. ? Or is it now finally an efficient buck ? (which would be my only incentive to buy this light for the 3rd time.. :| )
Also, too bad the side switch only has a single color option and not much practical use (all I care is for the "AUX" LED's to move from the business end into the switch to indicate stuff like the batt lvl.)
I would go Sofirn style on the indicator switch light which stays on for ~5 sec. when light is powered on indicating the batt. lvl. in a red <to> green "spectrum" (red > orange > yellow > lime > green)
I would use the "extra" Blue color as an indicator aid while navigating menus instead or along with the main emitters "buzz" (also maybe even use it as a switch "beacon"/"locator" as other lights)
Basically I'd remove the possibility to blind oneself while playing with the AUX lights which are now on the same side as the.. business.. "blinding end" and use the powers of RGB to do.. practical stuff
To me the AUX lights as they are implemented right now are just a gimmick and serve no practical purpose than.. well, "Auxiliary drain" :)) and maybe a bit of fun for 5 minutes when you first get the light.
Cheers!
I like the aux LEDs on my D4v2 lights. I use them on the “dim” setting. They’re very helpful for finding the light at night when it is used as a bedside light.
However, I agree it would be really nice if the switch light used multi-colored LEDs, turned to high-brightness when the light was on, and changed color to indicate battery charge level at least while the light is on.
I believe there is a function in anduril they tells you the battery status with the help of the aux LEDs. Please tell me If I’m wrong. But I think I read something about that just the other day.
You are correct. One of the settings for the aux colored LEDs under the bezel is to have them change colors based on battery voltage.
However, this function does not work with the aux LEDs under the switch. The switch LEDs are monochrome and do not change color.
Except for k1 which has RGB… don’t know if it’s a software issue or a hardware one.
I think it is hardware. I think the LEDs under the D4V2’s switch are monochrome. It’s why the purchaser has to choose their color at the time of purchase.
Updating the switch light to full color but that would likely require a redesign of the switch PCB and possible more wires to the switch. There might also be an issue of needing an additional output from the MCU if the switch light is to perform differently than the bezel backlight.
Hopefully, Hank will do that for the next version…. 