FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

I converted my triple to a single 2+ yrs ago. I’ve gone through many configurations over the years. First was a custom, intermediate length bezel made for using an S21A reflector, then later an odd 20mm TIR. After this, I bought a SS bezel from Neal and have been using Ledil Leila optics. First with sliced SST20w, then the Nichias, and I’ve been back to a domed SST20 4000K. Pretty happy with the current setup. 22kcd with an ~11 degree spot and 95CRI. 8kcd runs indefinitely without hardly getting warm.

Hello guys! I got my warm crees on mcpcb from kaidomain and also found soldering kit. Seems like now I’m ready to swap mcpcb on my fw3a coz it is impossible to find version with warm cree on internet right now.
But could anybody please give me some advice about this process? How can I disassemble a flashlight and not break anything the first time?
do I need to unscrew the driver from the side of the spring using two holes along the edges? Or I can just pull out mcpcb using the holes for fixing the optics? How tight is it there?
Thank you!

Modding the FW3A LEDs is easy, you don’t have to mess with the driver, you only need to access the LEDs board from the top (removing the bezel, lens and optic) and then you’ll see the wires that you need to unsolder.

Make sure you don’t have a battery inside to avoid accidental short-cuts in case you touch both wires.

Good luck :wink:

This!!

I’m not sure. I haven’t been in touch with Neal since 2019, and never successfully got in touch with Lumintop directly.

Got my FW3A 9 days ago , but the UI is kinda confusing. It does not line up with the original post, with the temperature blinky being after the BattCheck. Had a look at the generic Andúril UI but still can’t set thermal limit as the light does not do the “two blinks”.

Am I doing something wrong? I just do 7H from TempCheck then wait for the first blink, then enter the current temperature. The light then just stops flickering and goes to blinking the now calibrated temperature.

Have I made a mistake in getting an “Inferior” light?

(Edit): I bought from Lumintop’s official AliExpress store.

(Edit 2): Should clarify that I have firmware 322

What color is the driver pcb inside the head? Purple or red?

Red :frowning: (20201226) and a Golisi S26 for the battery

To set the thermal limit you must enter TempCheck and do 7H and keep holding the button for the second blink and then let go. The first blink is for setting the current temp.

Thanks for the tip! Have I just not read the manual right?

(Edit): Yes. It didn’t make sense to me

Anduril 1 worked as you said, where after entering the current temp the menu would then enter into temp limit setting.
Anduril 2 was changed to make it quicker to get to the specific menu item you are looking for, but it can be confusing if you haven’t used Anduril 2’s menu style before.

FW3A with Philips diffuser

FW3A with a diffuser from a Philips LED lightbulb on a custom 3D printed mount.

I don’t know what I did but now there is a weird flicker pattern when I ramp the light and I cannot reach full brightness. 13H does not work for reset.

Pretty sure its a software problem. Double click is dimmer then top of ramp for some reason…

Update: for any who experience this issue disabling memory timer (which I had likely accidentally enabled) worked to fix the problem.

Hello! After a long study of the subject, I decided on my first flashlight.
I managed to find an old batch fw3a in polished titanium case (with the original 7+1 driver) (I know that all new models get worse with each batch), also I got mcpcb with nice yellow hi cri leds which I like and swap it by myself.
All this backstory just you to understand how much it hurts me now that my only and long-awaited flashlight is lying in a box for three+ months with couple of 18350 battereis. I like short version and all this time I’m looking for 18350 polished Ti tube for it. Every couple of weeks I send messages to official lumintop ailexpress shop but they answer me the same - “production time is 2-3 weeks”. As I see it is impossible to buy it anywhere online.
So the question is maybe some of you guys have this part and do not use it or know where else I can look for it?

FW3A18350 polished Ti tube
https://www.illumn.com/flashlights/lumintop/accessories/lumintop-fw1a-fw3a-fw4a-18350-tube-polished-titanium-body-only.html

After about 3 years, I finally received a new FW3A in army green. I was on the original interest list but due to various reasons including a long hiatus from the hobby I never followed through on buying one until now.

Seeing how AWESOME this flashlight is I regret not getting one sooner, It’s quickly became my favorite pocket light! Nice buttery smooth action of the tail switch but seeing how it’s even more prone to accidental on than even a side switch I’m getting used to using electronic lockout…I love how low modes are usable in lockout! Never had Anduril in a small pocket light before and didn’t even realize it had this feature.

So now I’ve been “FW Bitten” and already ordered an FWAA and an FW1A Pro (XHP50.2) Also considering an FW21 Pro (3xXHP50.2) and X9L (SBT90.2).

However I’m saddened about Lumintop even further downgrading these lights. Fortunately the FW3A I received appears to have been older stock, it has the purple? color driver board with 6 chips like the one on the left in the new OP photo.

I’m now concerned if I’ll get a downgraded FW1A Pro, although maybe the Pro model isn’t affected since it’s a newer version to begin with? I ordered it from “A Lighting Store” on aliexpress, it showed the last one in stock, so maybe it’s an older version.

In the 2021 update post photo I see the downgraded red color board (on the right) is marked FW1A V1.1, does the downgraded FW3A board also look the same with no chips showing? Or are they using that FW1A V1.1 board in the downgraded FW3A?

Thanks but no. They have no it. Btw this guys have old versions of fw3a with original firmware and 7+1 driver. I ordered mine fw3ti there.

I checked lumintops aliexpress, ebay, amazon, lumintoplighting, lumintoponline.com, jlhawaii808, jc customs, illumn.com, nealsgadgets everywhere it is out of stock. Thats why I’m asking it here and on reddit. :frowning:

I killed a FW1A with a short doing a LED swap. Is there anywhere I can buy a replacement driver with Anduril or do I have to use something like a Convoy/Mtn driver?