I like the round die, but I can’t see myself putting that in anything. There comes a point where i don’t think it should even count as white anymore. How does it compare to the green osram? With a green filter it might be useful for hunting…
No, it is nothing like the green osram, if you look at the spectrum there is enough of most wavelengths to make reds look red, greens green and blues blue. Not all great accurate enjoyable saturated colours over the entire spectrum but it definitely is a “white” led. Same with the current LEP lights: extremely cool and low CRI but they still do the job of showing the colours.
My main complaint on the green osram is that it isn’t really that green. I forget what the cri is but I think it’s half way between green and a low cri white. My maxtoch l2k actually has pretty good color for a LEP once you get out there a bit. Up close it looks bad, but nobody uses a light like that up close.
I had high hopes for the yinding, but it doesn’t really seem any better than the pm1 all things considered.
Thanks djozz! It’s interesting that the peak lumens is almost exactly at 8A. Most other emitters peak to the right of their rating.
I think the LED is good enough where I’m going to pull the trigger and pair with a 8A driver and the empty C8 host that I have. I’m going to buy the 5000k version and hope it isn’t as green and the CRI is slightly better.
Yep the F1 Osrams have a wide spectrum and are more yellow-green than deep green. There is a lot of light above 600nm.
This is from djozz’s test:
Thank you so much for the test Djozz. It is greatly appreciated. The performance is surprisingly good. The tint is unfortunate, especially since the Cslpm and Culpm LEDs I have seen have had surprisingly decent tints. I wonder what the odds are that we will see better tints?
Thanks djozz for the test! I’ve been dying to see the results as my three ‘5000k’ emitters are stuck in transit, likely to never be seen again.
The tint is pretty intensely green. I wonder how much of a hit it’d take in flux to drop the duv tenfold if it hypothetically came in another bin?
If mine ever show up, ( In Chicago now! ETA is Saturday… 
) I will try them in a bunch of lights. The round die is super cool. Also, the Vf is perfect for true direct drive… My favorite way to run a dedicated thrower.
@Djozz Did you purchase the cool white or neutral white?
I’ll grab some for the Convoy Z1, customers aren’t so fond with a square
I forgot to mention that I bought and tested the 5000K version (which is also most consistent with the spectrum results). I updated the OP with that.
Interesting that Chinese LEDs got so good already.
Thanks for the test djozz!
Interesting that they rate the 5k as having a slightly higher luminous flux compared to the 6k, we usually see the opposite. I wonder if the 6k would lean more towards blue than green (and if that’s an improvement)?
Thanks. I was assuming that was the case. I’ll order some cold white ones in a replacement order among with a ‘green’.
There’s also the other variation of this emitter with the Osram Q8WP-esque glass flat lens/encapsulation I’ll try out
I’m thinking this is the case. Because of the lumen/w advantage of thee green wavelengths, the green heavy phosphor likely increases the lumen output over the cooler version (more blue, less green). Since they go so light on the red phosphor, the radiant power losses of the phosphor conversion are more than made up for by the lm/w difference.
I still prefer the CULNM1, large footprint 1mm2 
With my circle die mod of course…
This is a cool runner up though
djozz - thanks again for the test!! Just discovered this thread.
Just got 3 in of the 5000K's - they look nothing like the ones pictured in the OP. Mine look like the 5000's shown here where I bought them: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003246180028.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.41ab4c4dS6O6wb, in the 4th picture, LED on the right.
I have one on a 20 mm MCPCB, 2 bare. Looks like the Vf is slightly better than a XPL-HI so may be hard to get to 8 amps on one cell, FET driver.
Trying to decide what light - thinking of a FT03 but also considering a WT1M. The lumens output is disappointing but that's not the point with this LED. Still, how could they rate it at 3024 lumens, not 3020 or 3000 but 3024, where at best it does about 1800?
I was hoping it would beat the SFT-40 in lumens and throw, but we'll see how it does in throw.
Enderman - What is a circle die mod? Is that JB Weld? I know it must work because you wouldn't do it if it didn't 
3000 lumens would be ridiculous at 8A. It would rival the efficiency of a XHP70.2 but domeless and only 2mm^2. It would also have 50% higher intensity compared to an Osram W1. I contacted the seller on Taobao and he/she also quoted 1800 lumens which is very close to Djozz’s test.
If it had a better spectrum and could be pushed to 2000 lumens at higher current, it would be the best emitter on the market.
Ummm. Guys (and gals)… Holy crap.
Djozz got ripped off. I received mine today - two days early - and as Tom stated, mine are not like djozz’s samples. They have clear silicone and a glass lens. Let me tell you…
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They are friggin awesome! Tint is perfect on turbo. Slight green shows up on lower modes with the Convoy 8A buck driver, but seriously. PURE white at 8A. A quick and dirty output test showed the same peak current. 8A and 3.99V. Take the lumen value with a grain of salt, as I didn’t do a “calibration” run (will get back to that with another sample later), but I’m getting 1900 lumens ! EDIT: After running a calibration, I’m seeing 1780lm de-lensed. No more left with a lens to compare.
Beam out of an L21B is near perfect. I say nearly because there is an odd “eyeball” artifact that I haven’t figured out were it’s coming from yet. But I literally just got the light together a few minutes ago. 370kcd with initial focusing and a 30T@4.03V
I’m so excited. Honestly this is the most giddy I’ve been in a loonngg time with this hobby.
More to come.
EDIT 1 - Just popped off the lens (by accident actually, which means it came of clean as could be) Artifact is gone! Focus height is different now because I changed gaskets so I don’t know what is responsible for what, but now I’m up to 384kcd with 30T@4.01V
EDIT 2 - Charged the cell. 4.23V (not relaxed, hot off the charger) Raised the reflector a bit with one layer of tape, need another I think b/c the corona is still a bit bigger than I’d like. 408kcd
How is it better than a PM1 though? Sure it’s a bit wider, but i get 1,345m in the L21B. Can’t remember what that is in candela now. I also get 1,200m with the SFT40 which is higher than yours for some reason
Would be interested to hear your thoughts…
My lux values seem to come in a bit lower than everyone elses by a few percent it seems. I remember no matter what I did, I couldn’t hit your SFT40 numbers.
384kcd is 1,239m >> 1,345m would be 452kcd
Lumens wise, the boost HX from Simon maxed out at 1,560 in my light box.
That’s the problem when very few are using a calibrated lux meter, who knows who’s is correct. Mine reads 5% higher than Marco’s over at 1Lumen, but that still puts it higher than your measurement.
Also in my calibrated pvc tube I can’t get higher than 1350 or so at 30 sec, same as Tom E. At start it’s a little over 1450, guess no two LEDs are going to be the same though. My L21A/B stock tests 1200-1350