Yinding "5050 30W" round die domeless led tested

Thank you so much for the test Djozz. It is greatly appreciated. The performance is surprisingly good. The tint is unfortunate, especially since the Cslpm and Culpm LEDs I have seen have had surprisingly decent tints. I wonder what the odds are that we will see better tints?

Thanks djozz for the test! I’ve been dying to see the results as my three ‘5000k’ emitters are stuck in transit, likely to never be seen again.

The tint is pretty intensely green. I wonder how much of a hit it’d take in flux to drop the duv tenfold if it hypothetically came in another bin?

If mine ever show up, ( In Chicago now! ETA is Saturday… :partying_face: ) I will try them in a bunch of lights. The round die is super cool. Also, the Vf is perfect for true direct drive… My favorite way to run a dedicated thrower.

@Djozz Did you purchase the cool white or neutral white?

I’ll grab some for the Convoy Z1, customers aren’t so fond with a square

I forgot to mention that I bought and tested the 5000K version (which is also most consistent with the spectrum results). I updated the OP with that.

Interesting that Chinese LEDs got so good already.
Thanks for the test djozz!

Interesting that they rate the 5k as having a slightly higher luminous flux compared to the 6k, we usually see the opposite. I wonder if the 6k would lean more towards blue than green (and if that’s an improvement)?

Thanks. I was assuming that was the case. I’ll order some cold white ones in a replacement order among with a ‘green’.

There’s also the other variation of this emitter with the Osram Q8WP-esque glass flat lens/encapsulation I’ll try out

I’m thinking this is the case. Because of the lumen/w advantage of thee green wavelengths, the green heavy phosphor likely increases the lumen output over the cooler version (more blue, less green). Since they go so light on the red phosphor, the radiant power losses of the phosphor conversion are more than made up for by the lm/w difference.

I still prefer the CULNM1, large footprint 1mm2 :slight_smile: With my circle die mod of course…

This is a cool runner up though

djozz - thanks again for the test!! Just discovered this thread.

Just got 3 in of the 5000K's - they look nothing like the ones pictured in the OP. Mine look like the 5000's shown here where I bought them: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003246180028.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.41ab4c4dS6O6wb, in the 4th picture, LED on the right.

I have one on a 20 mm MCPCB, 2 bare. Looks like the Vf is slightly better than a XPL-HI so may be hard to get to 8 amps on one cell, FET driver.

Trying to decide what light - thinking of a FT03 but also considering a WT1M. The lumens output is disappointing but that's not the point with this LED. Still, how could they rate it at 3024 lumens, not 3020 or 3000 but 3024, where at best it does about 1800?

I was hoping it would beat the SFT-40 in lumens and throw, but we'll see how it does in throw.

Enderman - What is a circle die mod? Is that JB Weld? I know it must work because you wouldn't do it if it didn't

3000 lumens would be ridiculous at 8A. It would rival the efficiency of a XHP70.2 but domeless and only 2mm^2. It would also have 50% higher intensity compared to an Osram W1. I contacted the seller on Taobao and he/she also quoted 1800 lumens which is very close to Djozz’s test.

If it had a better spectrum and could be pushed to 2000 lumens at higher current, it would be the best emitter on the market.

Ummm. Guys (and gals)… Holy crap.

Djozz got ripped off. I received mine today - two days early - and as Tom stated, mine are not like djozz’s samples. They have clear silicone and a glass lens. Let me tell you…

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They are friggin awesome! Tint is perfect on turbo. Slight green shows up on lower modes with the Convoy 8A buck driver, but seriously. PURE white at 8A. A quick and dirty output test showed the same peak current. 8A and 3.99V. Take the lumen value with a grain of salt, as I didn’t do a “calibration” run (will get back to that with another sample later), but I’m getting 1900 lumens ! EDIT: After running a calibration, I’m seeing 1780lm de-lensed. No more left with a lens to compare.

Beam out of an L21B is near perfect. I say nearly because there is an odd “eyeball” artifact that I haven’t figured out were it’s coming from yet. But I literally just got the light together a few minutes ago. 370kcd with initial focusing and a 30T@4.03V

I’m so excited. Honestly this is the most giddy I’ve been in a loonngg time with this hobby.

More to come.

EDIT 1 - Just popped off the lens (by accident actually, which means it came of clean as could be) Artifact is gone! Focus height is different now because I changed gaskets so I don’t know what is responsible for what, but now I’m up to 384kcd with 30T@4.01V

EDIT 2 - Charged the cell. 4.23V (not relaxed, hot off the charger) Raised the reflector a bit with one layer of tape, need another I think b/c the corona is still a bit bigger than I’d like. 408kcd

How is it better than a PM1 though? Sure it’s a bit wider, but i get 1,345m in the L21B. Can’t remember what that is in candela now. I also get 1,200m with the SFT40 which is higher than yours for some reason

Would be interested to hear your thoughts…

My lux values seem to come in a bit lower than everyone elses by a few percent it seems. I remember no matter what I did, I couldn’t hit your SFT40 numbers.

384kcd is 1,239m >> 1,345m would be 452kcd

Lumens wise, the boost HX from Simon maxed out at 1,560 in my light box.

That’s the problem when very few are using a calibrated lux meter, who knows who’s is correct. Mine reads 5% higher than Marco’s over at 1Lumen, but that still puts it higher than your measurement.

Also in my calibrated pvc tube I can’t get higher than 1350 or so at 30 sec, same as Tom E. At start it’s a little over 1450, guess no two LEDs are going to be the same though. My L21A/B stock tests 1200-1350

Ok, I'm there with Jared. Popped it in a FT03 - yes, the beam and tint looks pretty darn good. Did some tests at different amps/cells on the stock driver, but I got spring bypasses installed. at 8.6 amps, throw dropped to 460 kcd, but at ~8 amps on a Molicel P42A I got 493 kcd, 1485 lumens at start.

Funny, was look' at the plastic piece over the LED and looked like there were holes on the side so could easily pop it off - interesting. Will post pics.

I discovered these holes when I was cleaning after the reflow with IPA. I had to blow out the alcohol that got under the lens.

There is absolutely nothing to be gained above 8.0A, this I’m confident about. Low 7s is probably a good spot to be.

Yes, I got slightly higher at 7.1 amps on a LK cell at 4.15V.

Mounted on a FT03 SST-40 MCPCB:

Installed:

There's life!

Closer looks:

Thanks for the awesome macro shots Tom! :beer:

Pop that lens off already!! :smiling_imp:

One more live update. 415kcd 30T@4.20V and bezel loosened until my eyeball said ‘perfect’. I think this is maxed out here.

I’ve got two emitters left. Where to put them? TN31 that is currently doing 526kcd with an SFT40 running 9ish amps and did 565kcd with a PM1 running 7.0A. These numbers sound too high to be true, but 700kcd is my estimate in the Thrunite at 7A.

Then there’s the C8+ or M2 with ramping driver… B158B… Jacob A60…

Just bought 10 more before these unicorns disappear :exclamation:

Definitely 7.1 amps does better than 8 amps, but ever so slightly. yea, gotta get the lens off.

lumens is maukka cal factor and throw is taken indoors at 5 meters on a Extech LT45:

7.1 amps: 497 kcd, 1515 lumens at start

8 amps: 493 kcd, 1485 lumens at start

These #'s are decent enough, in the realm of the Boost HX but a lot cheaper. Really wanna see it in a aspheric though - should see a nice circular spot -- wayyyy overdue.