It sounds like you have tried all the usual tools and tricks, and probably have a big oily mess with no option to take it anywhere.
The threads are likely galled or cold-welded from galvanic corrosion of dissimilar metals.
i don’t know if the flange is accessible, but i would be thinking of using a chisel and hammer to tap on the nut flange in the CCW direction, or an air impact hammer if you have that equipment. Anything to get some vibration into the thread joint to break it loose.
Also get some pictures of what the filter currently looks like. If it’s really damaged at this point I would go and buy another identical one and cut it in half so you can see exactly where the structure is left inside. That way you know what you can grab with what tools. Depending on access. Or cut more away to get at the base plate once you know what the base plate looks like. Again room and access are going to dictate the next moves.
If you get to the base plate you can probably stick a screwdriver in one of the holes and use a hammer to drive it around. I hope I never get to that point on an oil filter lol.
If you have a 3d printer you could design a tool to fit in all the oil holes around the center and put a wrench on it.
I stopped changing my own oil when the price of oil went way up. My local garage does it for about $10 more than the cost of filter and 5 quarts of oil plus he will grease any odd fittings for me. A large pair of pump pliers should get your stuck filter off if you can get them in there and have room to turn.
https://www.harborfreight.com/locking-oil-filter-wrench-63696.html Is there room to get this in near the base plate? I looked at one video of that vehicle and it is showing a view from underneath but also talking about removing the tire and getting at it in that direction. Are you working from the wheel well or underneath or both? The view wasn’t that great from underneath.
A coil spring filter wrench grips tighter as more torque is applied to the hex head. It won't collapse the can. Indispensable when swing area around the filter is limited and access can only be had from the end of the filter. There are two sizes. Link below is just for example, as I cannot ascertain quality to recommend this particular item.
When I go out there I’ll take a photo. Next try is a filter socket. The filter is still mostly solid with only minor dents and two nice clean holes with no tearing of the metal.
When I do get the filter off it will never be a problem again. I have a dual filter relocation kit that will make filter removal much easier and avoid oil in the filter fron draining on the rubber boot.
I would not try the screwdriver through the filter trick. I’ve seen them just tear through a filter too, and then you’re left much worse off than when you started.
If you’re going to go at it from the end I think I would try this thing. Below. Although some of the cap type Socket/wrenches
do fit pretty nice, most do not If you can have an identical new filter in your hand to test fit some of those cap type sockets that’s a good thing. Lisle Oil filter wrench review. It saved me from a lot of work! - YouTube So even with a hole all the way through both sides and some sort of a giant bar you cannot move it, or is it that you can’t get a large enough bar on there?
Run the engine for a while to get it up to temp, then try to remove the filter. Heat helps. Or is it too late for that now? Also, hit it with a mallet while using one of your wrenches. This might take two people and a metal rod or something to reach it, but the shock from the impact can help to break it loose.
He put a hole in the oil filter. It ain’t gonna run now.
Check if you can fit an oil filter cap on it and use a sprocket/breaker bar on that. Go easy on the breaker bar.
If it fails then attach that to a hammer drill. Start slow.
