Yeah, when all is said and done, ordering from the AX store with discounts (11.11 sale, store coupon, AX coupon, PayPal payment discount) is cheaper than the Sofirnlight store or Amazon.
I ordered the newest version with Anduril 2.0 and power bank function, plus the case, for a total of $66 and change. Without the case, it would have been $60 and change.
Sofirnlight store would have been $67, sans the case.
Amazon, no better, due to the higher item pricing, and the wonkiness involving two different sellers/coupon codes, depending on color desired. The colored versions bundled with the case are $90, and the (now expired) 17% coupon would have knocked it down to $74. The other store had a 20% 11.11 code, but only listed the black version, with no case for $85, so $68 total.
Buying through AMZ provides other benefits, but not better value. And the split stores, with different discounts is something Sofirn would have to explain. Seems nonsensical to me, unnecessarily complicated, and confusing for shoppers.
I prefer my original as the low is lower and I use the lowest setting a lot I find when camping or using it as a night light for kids.
Thank you for this information! That decides it for me, lower low is much more important than power bank functionality.
I can attest that the lowest mode of the LT1 v1 is good. Go to the ramp menu and select “1” for the bottom end. If the v2 is brighter, I’d not be happy about that.
supreme wrote:
11.11 sale, new user, and checked out with PayPal. $50-$60. I forgot which one of the 3 I ordered.
I ordered mine from the Sofirn website when they had an earlier sale. $51 shipped with batteries. Nice to see they repeated it for 11.11. So, it could happen again for Black Friday, if they still have stock.
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3 // I get way more privmsgs than I can respond to, so please ask in a public thread if possible, for a faster answer.
xevious wrote:
I can attest that the lowest mode of the LT1 v1 is good. Go to the ramp menu and select “1” for the bottom end. If the v2 is brighter, I’d not be happy about that.
If it’s using 7 chips per channel instead of 5, the lowest mode would increase from like 1.5 lm to 2.1 lm. It’s not a huge visual change.
The brightest mode would increase from about 600 lm to 840 lm.
If it gets updated to the most recent firmware with a “200% power” turbo, the brightest level would increase from 840 lm to about 1400 lm. However, since it has no temperature sensor, I would caution against using this turbo level for more than a momentary burst mode. The LT1 was built to handle 600 lm worth of heat, or perhaps even as much as 900 lm if you don’t mind the top getting hot. But it wouldn’t be a good idea to turn it up to 1400 lm and leave it running.
My LT1 arrived a few days ago. It’s great. Thanks to everyone who contributed to the design.
One minor design limitation I have encountered is that the USB-C charging port will not accept USB-C cables that have a thick overmold on the connector due to the limited size of the recess. As the USB-C standard is revised for higher speeds and higher charging currents, it has become common for cables to have thicker overmolds, though it varies from one cable manufacturer to the next. It may be possible to modify the cable in some cases by cutting or abrading away a portion of the overmold.
I point this out mainly for awareness, so that people who are traveling and depend upon using the USB-C port in their LT1 can confirm that the cable they plan to use does in fact fit.
I can attest that the lowest mode of the LT1 v1 is good. Go to the ramp menu and select “1” for the bottom end. If the v2 is brighter, I’d not be happy about that.
If it’s using 7 chips per channel instead of 5, the lowest mode would increase from like 1.5 lm to 2.1 lm. It’s not a huge visual change.
The brightest mode would increase from about 600 lm to 840 lm.
If it gets updated to the most recent firmware with a “200% power” turbo, the brightest level would increase from 840 lm to about 1400 lm. However, since it has no temperature sensor, I would caution against using this turbo level for more than a momentary burst mode. The LT1 was built to handle 600 lm worth of heat, or perhaps even as much as 900 lm if you don’t mind the top getting hot. But it wouldn’t be a good idea to turn it up to 1400 lm and leave it running.
Thanks TK! Glad to hear that it’s not an appreciable difference in low end brightness. Also thanks for the tip about turbo. Will definitely be mindful about not abusing the 200% turbo if and when I ever update the firmware.
If it's using 7 chips per channel instead of 5, the lowest mode would increase from like 1.5 lm to 2.1 lm. It's not a huge visual change. The brightest mode would increase from about 600 lm to 840 lm. If it gets updated to the most recent firmware with a "200% power" turbo, the brightest level would increase from 840 lm to about 1400 lm. However, since it has no temperature sensor, I would caution against using this turbo level for more than a momentary burst mode. The LT1 was built to handle 600 lm worth of heat, or perhaps even as much as 900 lm if you don't mind the top getting hot. But it wouldn't be a good idea to turn it up to 1400 lm and leave it running.
If you want to update the firmware, how do you avoid installing the 200% feature? Will "we" need to recompile with that feature tweaked back to just 100%?
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3 // I get way more privmsgs than I can respond to, so please ask in a public thread if possible, for a faster answer.
supreme wrote:
Anyone else with a green led button have a T on the button? Unsure why this was chosen versus a simple button without a T on it.
The BLF Q8 was a partnership with Thorfire, so they branded it by putting a “T” on the button.
Thorfire hired Sofirn for the manufacturing. This was back when Sofirn didn’t make much under their own brand, and mostly manufactured things for other companies. That has since changed though.
Eventually the entire project, and its derivatives like the LT1, went to Sofirn directly. Thorfire hasn’t been involved for a while.
… but apparently they must have made a lot of those buttons.
Anyone else with a green led button have a T on the button? Unsure why this was chosen versus a simple button without a T on it.
The BLF Q8 was a partnership with Thorfire, so they branded it by putting a “T” on the button.
Thorfire hired Sofirn for the manufacturing. This was back when Sofirn didn’t make much under their own brand, and mostly manufactured things for other companies. That has since changed though.
Eventually the entire project, and its derivatives like the LT1, went to Sofirn directly. Thorfire hasn’t been involved for a while.
… but apparently they must have made a lot of those buttons.
Very interesting! I’m wondering how many LT1’s are out there with the “T” on the button. I’m not a fan because mine isn’t centered (I wouldn’t mind if it was). I’ll see if I can maybe I can center it myself.
I believe #3 is the newest with the power bank function. The difference between #1 and #2 is #2 has Anduril 2?
I don’t think Sofirn has any of the old mcpcb anymore. I didn’t order the one with the power bank function but I got the latest mcpcb based on the chart a few pages back.
Sofirn probably forgot or hasn’t gotten around to fixing the AliExpress store pages
Any guides on how to build a flashing kit for the latest mcpcb?
I received notice today that mine has reached the country, and in the hands of the postal service. Scheduled for Monday delivery, but maybe I’ll get lucky and have a shiny new toy for the weekend.
Bought 2 within the last 3 weeks. Both got the T button. The spare button have the T also. Never really noticed it and it doesn’t bother me.
Sofirn has a trillion of the T-button caps to use up, so all is good!
Big big thanks to you and all who have helped on this project. I watched all your development videos. Long time Coleman gas lanterns user and I still plan on using them as I like the heat from them while winter camping. However the LT1 have become my go to lantern. I use it all the time at work too.
Patiently waiting for the mini version. Thanks again.
Got my third one today in green this time and just love the colour.
This one has came set with the simple Ui and of course took me few minutes to remember the 10H to switch it to advanced Ui,
these days takes very little to get me confused…. yes keep laughing you`ll get there one day too hope not
My LT1 arrived a few days ago. It’s great. Thanks to everyone who contributed to the design.
One minor design limitation I have encountered is that the USB-C charging port will not accept USB-C cables that have a thick overmold on the connector due to the limited size of the recess. As the USB-C standard is revised for higher speeds and higher charging currents, it has become common for cables to have thicker overmolds, though it varies from one cable manufacturer to the next. It may be possible to modify the cable in some cases by cutting or abrading away a portion of the overmold.
I point this out mainly for awareness, so that people who are traveling and depend upon using the USB-C port in their LT1 can confirm that the cable they plan to use does in fact fit.
Good that you pointed this out for others.
I’ve bought several different USB-C OTG adapters/cables to be plugged in the BLF LT1v2.0 (or other Sofirn lights that feature powerbank function, eg. the Sofirn Q8 Pro, Wurkkos HD20, Wurkkos TS21, Astrolux EC06, and possibly more in the future) so I can use the flashlight/lantern to charge other stuff that only use a standard USB-A male plug.
I notice that some of the OTGUSB-C adapters (male USB-C to female USB-A) have bigger molds that barely fit the USB-C port on the lantern/flashlights.
~~~~
Side question:
Is it safe to use USB-C OTG adapter/cable (USB-C male to USB-A female) on these flashlight/lantern to serve as a more general-purpose powerbank? Or would there be some concerns to note about?
(I understand some of the cheaper/lower quality adapter/cable will pass a lower current, maybe just 5v/1A; but the more expensive/higher quality OTG adapter can allow 5v/2A or maybe 5v/3A)
Bought 2 within the last 3 weeks. Both got the T button. The spare button have the T also. Never really noticed it and it doesn’t bother me.
Sofirn has a trillion of the T-button caps to use up, so all is good!
Big big thanks to you and all who have helped on this project. I watched all your development videos. Long time Coleman gas lanterns user and I still plan on using them as I like the heat from them while winter camping. However the LT1 have become my go to lantern. I use it all the time at work too.
Patiently waiting for the mini version. Thanks again.
I have a massive Coleman GPA collection too! (over 90 lanterns, 70 stoves & heaters.
—
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
I have noticed a variance in the molded plug end between cords and run into a variety of devices that have problems with inserting the larger molded plug ends.
Is it safe to use USB-C OTG adapter/cable (USB-C male to USB-A female) on these flashlight/lantern to serve as a more general-purpose powerbank? Or would there be some concerns to note about?
(I understand some of the cheaper/lower quality adapter/cable will pass a lower current, maybe just 5v/1A; but the more expensive/higher quality OTG adapter can allow 5v/2A or maybe 5v/3A)
I think using an adapter is even better than safe (when using high-quality ones) because you can force the LT1 to act as a powerbank and the other device to charge itself. When I plug my smartphone in my Q8 Pro the phone tries to charge the light for some reason, so I need to plug in an adapter to the Q8 Pro which has 5.1k pulldown resistors on the USB-C CC1 and 2 pins to activate 5V.
I have noticed a variance in the molded plug end between cords and run into a variety of devices that have problems with inserting the larger molded plug ends.
Yes, this is a ‘universal’ problem with plug ends & sockets on various devices.
I have reverted to shaving a little off the moulded plug to get it to fit a socket. Otherwise I use a different cable.
I switched from smooth ramping to stepped ramping on mine … And never managed to get it back …
Turn it on (1 click)… then click 3 times. That goes between smooth and stepped ramping.
thank you for your help;
I tried this already, but 3 clicks does nothing : after the 3 clicks, whether I wait and then hold or turn off, it stays in stepped mode. I must be missing something there
If you got your lantern recently than just like @Rayoui mentioned first you have to switch to advanced mode to be able to use this future.
To switch to the advanced mode: from off 10 clicks and hold
Does your LT1 have Anduril 2? If so, you will need to switch to advanced mode to toggle stepped/smooth ramping.
Damned, you and ToyKeeper saved myself from madness :
I was refering to the cheat sheet on the aliexpress page : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4000238008009.html, and it said 6 clicks to go to and from muggle mode … (of at least that’s what I thought it would do)
so here is what I did :
from Off, 10clicks+hold > advanced mode
switch On, 3 clicks to switch to ramped (and it works this time)
switch Off, then 10 clicks > back to simple mode
If you got your lantern recently than just like @Rayoui mentioned first you have to switch to advanced mode to be able to use this future.
To switch to the advanced mode: from off 10 clicks and hold
… I should have refreshed the page before searching, that was exactly what I was missing
Yeah, when all is said and done, ordering from the AX store with discounts (11.11 sale, store coupon, AX coupon, PayPal payment discount) is cheaper than the Sofirnlight store or Amazon.
I ordered the newest version with Anduril 2.0 and power bank function, plus the case, for a total of $66 and change. Without the case, it would have been $60 and change.
Sofirnlight store would have been $67, sans the case.
Amazon, no better, due to the higher item pricing, and the wonkiness involving two different sellers/coupon codes, depending on color desired. The colored versions bundled with the case are $90, and the (now expired) 17% coupon would have knocked it down to $74. The other store had a 20% 11.11 code, but only listed the black version, with no case for $85, so $68 total.
Buying through AMZ provides other benefits, but not better value. And the split stores, with different discounts is something Sofirn would have to explain. Seems nonsensical to me, unnecessarily complicated, and confusing for shoppers.
I ordered mine from the Sofirn website when they had an earlier sale. $51 shipped with batteries. Nice to see they repeated it for 11.11. So, it could happen again for Black Friday, if they still have stock.
If it’s using 7 chips per channel instead of 5, the lowest mode would increase from like 1.5 lm to 2.1 lm. It’s not a huge visual change.
The brightest mode would increase from about 600 lm to 840 lm.
If it gets updated to the most recent firmware with a “200% power” turbo, the brightest level would increase from 840 lm to about 1400 lm. However, since it has no temperature sensor, I would caution against using this turbo level for more than a momentary burst mode. The LT1 was built to handle 600 lm worth of heat, or perhaps even as much as 900 lm if you don’t mind the top getting hot. But it wouldn’t be a good idea to turn it up to 1400 lm and leave it running.
My LT1 arrived a few days ago. It’s great. Thanks to everyone who contributed to the design.
One minor design limitation I have encountered is that the USB-C charging port will not accept USB-C cables that have a thick overmold on the connector due to the limited size of the recess. As the USB-C standard is revised for higher speeds and higher charging currents, it has become common for cables to have thicker overmolds, though it varies from one cable manufacturer to the next. It may be possible to modify the cable in some cases by cutting or abrading away a portion of the overmold.
I point this out mainly for awareness, so that people who are traveling and depend upon using the USB-C port in their LT1 can confirm that the cable they plan to use does in fact fit.
If you want to update the firmware, how do you avoid installing the 200% feature? Will "we" need to recompile with that feature tweaked back to just 100%?
You should just be able to set the ceiling to 100% and use the advanced menu to set “no turbo”.
Anyone else with a green led button have a T on the button? Unsure why this was chosen versus a simple button without a T on it.
The BLF Q8 was a partnership with Thorfire, so they branded it by putting a “T” on the button.
Thorfire hired Sofirn for the manufacturing. This was back when Sofirn didn’t make much under their own brand, and mostly manufactured things for other companies. That has since changed though.
Eventually the entire project, and its derivatives like the LT1, went to Sofirn directly. Thorfire hasn’t been involved for a while.
… but apparently they must have made a lot of those buttons.
Very interesting! I’m wondering how many LT1’s are out there with the “T” on the button. I’m not a fan because mine isn’t centered (I wouldn’t mind if it was). I’ll see if I can maybe I can center it myself.
“T” is for terrific!
BLF Member Map, add yourself
My 10th Annual contest entry.. My 9th Annual contest entry. My 8th Annual contest entry.. My 7th Annual contest entry.. My 6th Annual contest entry... My 5th Annual contest entry... My 4th Annual contest entry...
My DBSAR inspired SRK lantern hand made mod
Bought 2 within the last 3 weeks. Both got the T button. The spare button have the T also. Never really noticed it and it doesn’t bother me.
Sofirn has a trillion of the T-button caps to use up, so all is good!
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
I don’t think Sofirn has any of the old mcpcb anymore. I didn’t order the one with the power bank function but I got the latest mcpcb based on the chart a few pages back.
Sofirn probably forgot or hasn’t gotten around to fixing the AliExpress store pages
Any guides on how to build a flashing kit for the latest mcpcb?
Not “T” for ToyKeeper?
I received notice today that mine has reached the country, and in the hands of the postal service. Scheduled for Monday delivery, but maybe I’ll get lucky and have a shiny new toy for the weekend.
Big big thanks to you and all who have helped on this project. I watched all your development videos. Long time Coleman gas lanterns user and I still plan on using them as I like the heat from them while winter camping. However the LT1 have become my go to lantern. I use it all the time at work too.
Patiently waiting for the mini version. Thanks again.
Got my third one today in green this time and just love the colour.
This one has came set with the simple Ui and of course took me few minutes to remember the 10H to switch it to advanced Ui, these days takes very little to get me confused….
yes keep laughing you`ll get there one day too 
hope not 
***Rofis MR70*TurnRaise*Catapult V6*BLF Q8*BLF Mini*BLF Micro*Haikelite MT09R* Convoy C8*BLF D80v2 SST40*MatemincoX6S*AstroluxFT03-xhp50.2*AstroluxFT03-sst40*BLF-LT1*AstroluxFT03S-SBT90.2***
Good that you pointed this out for others.
I’ve bought several different USB-C OTG adapters/cables to be plugged in the BLF LT1v2.0 (or other Sofirn lights that feature powerbank function, eg. the Sofirn Q8 Pro, Wurkkos HD20, Wurkkos TS21, Astrolux EC06, and possibly more in the future) so I can use the flashlight/lantern to charge other stuff that only use a standard USB-A male plug.
I notice that some of the OTG USB-C adapters (male USB-C to female USB-A) have bigger molds that barely fit the USB-C port on the lantern/flashlights.
~~~~
Side question:
Is it safe to use USB-C OTG adapter/cable (USB-C male to USB-A female) on these flashlight/lantern to serve as a more general-purpose powerbank? Or would there be some concerns to note about?
(I understand some of the cheaper/lower quality adapter/cable will pass a lower current, maybe just 5v/1A; but the more expensive/higher quality OTG adapter can allow 5v/2A or maybe 5v/3A)
I have a massive Coleman GPA collection too! (over 90 lanterns, 70 stoves & heaters.
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
I have noticed a variance in the molded plug end between cords and run into a variety of devices that have problems with inserting the larger molded plug ends.
BLF Member Map, add yourself
My 10th Annual contest entry.. My 9th Annual contest entry. My 8th Annual contest entry.. My 7th Annual contest entry.. My 6th Annual contest entry... My 5th Annual contest entry... My 4th Annual contest entry...
My DBSAR inspired SRK lantern hand made mod
I switched from smooth ramping to stepped ramping on mine … And never managed to get it back …
I think using an adapter is even better than safe (when using high-quality ones) because you can force the LT1 to act as a powerbank and the other device to charge itself. When I plug my smartphone in my Q8 Pro the phone tries to charge the light for some reason, so I need to plug in an adapter to the Q8 Pro which has 5.1k pulldown resistors on the USB-C CC1 and 2 pins to activate 5V.
Yes, this is a ‘universal’ problem with plug ends & sockets on various devices.
I have reverted to shaving a little off the moulded plug to get it to fit a socket. Otherwise I use a different cable.
Turn it on (1 click)… then click 3 times. That goes between smooth and stepped ramping.
thank you for your help;
I tried this already, but 3 clicks does nothing : after the 3 clicks, whether I wait and then hold or turn off, it stays in stepped mode. I must be missing something there
Does your LT1 have Anduril 2? If so, you will need to switch to advanced mode to toggle stepped/smooth ramping.
If you got your lantern recently than just like @Rayoui mentioned first you have to switch to advanced mode to be able to use this future. To switch to the advanced mode: from off 10 clicks and hold
***Rofis MR70*TurnRaise*Catapult V6*BLF Q8*BLF Mini*BLF Micro*Haikelite MT09R* Convoy C8*BLF D80v2 SST40*MatemincoX6S*AstroluxFT03-xhp50.2*AstroluxFT03-sst40*BLF-LT1*AstroluxFT03S-SBT90.2***
Damned, you and ToyKeeper saved myself from madness :
I was refering to the cheat sheet on the aliexpress page : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4000238008009.html, and it said 6 clicks to go to and from muggle mode … (of at least that’s what I thought it would do)
BUT, after you wrote “Anduril 2” I looked for it, and found http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril2/anduril-manual.txt .. that says 10 clicks/hold !
so here is what I did :
from Off, 10clicks+hold > advanced mode
switch On, 3 clicks to switch to ramped (and it works this time)
switch Off, then 10 clicks > back to simple mode
Thank you a lot
… I should have refreshed the page before searching, that was exactly what I was missing
thx !
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