I think 1600+ lumens at a CRI of 9080 in a throwy beam coming out of a single LED is amazing.
Funny though as I think most people still prioritize quantity over quality. Maybe this is subjective, but at one point I think 20% more lumens is a minor increase compared to the jump you get in clarity going from CRI 70 to 90+. There are a lot of bad tinted high CRI options out there, but enough good ones that personally don’t see the need to ever go back to a low CRI light.
On mine, I measured ~0.56 lm to ~1300 lm with a 50E cell. Moon was stable, but turbo wasn’t as bright as I expected. However, I haven’t measured with a higher-amp cell. It could just be a weak battery.
I see the moon pre-flash here too, and I wasn’t able to get rid of it. I think it’s a hardware quirk, because it shows up even with jump-start at level 1 (which is default, and effectively means no jump start at all). I should still double-check though, to make sure it still happens even when jump-start isn’t compiled in. As far as I can tell though, simply turning on the boost circuit, without even sending any PWM to the control pin, causes a brief flash. It’s sending a flat zero for the brightness level, and it still flashes.
For thermal tests, what I’ve found works well (simulates real-world use, approximately) is to rest the light pointed downward on a wire shelf, with a fan on “low” blowing gently toward it from about 1 meter away. I place a phone under it to log data, and I adjust the position so turbo mode reads roughly 50% to 90% on the light’s sensor. I’m using an old Nexus 4, and its sensor goes from 0 to 10,000, so I typically try to make turbo read roughly 8,000. This gives good resolution without clipping. Hooray for analog gain staging!
For narrow lights, I place a spare lens on the wire shelf, and put the light on the glass. That’s only if the light is small enough to fall between the shelf wires though.
The startup current overshoot is something that I have in all the boost drivers I’ve made, but it’s only really problematic with the MP3431 based ones, Loneoceans’ boost driver had this, Mike C’s too, he used a small FET to pull down the Op-Amp inverting input for a short duration during startup to solve this, when using a dual sense resistor topology for very low moonlight like I do this can be mitigated by waiting for a couple of ms before turning on the high power range FET.
Both of these solutions don’t have support in Anduril though, and it would need a hardware revision… depends how problematic it is in the case of the DM11, how bright is this flash ?
Edit : I missed Luxwad comment, so ”bright” it is.
For floody purposes, absolutely. For a thrower to lighten up something 100-200m away, I’m not sure. FF E07x pro, I would love some high cri, if it was 6000 lumen plus, but that generates heat. Ahrgh, it’s all a circle jerk with compromises!
Oh true, it’s weighted by a curve that peaks in the green region.
Hank, what currents are you using for the newer e21a tint ramping drivers? Are you still using only 1.25A/led by default as with the original 5A driver?
Can we chose to use 1.5A/led - 1.6A/led? What about with the upcoming DT8? Thank you.
The tint ramping D4V2/KR4 use 1.9A per LED, so, total 7.6A.
DT8 should be available in 2 weeks time.
Hank, How are you guys holding up? I guess that you met some pressure with the release of the tint ramping lights, plus the DM11. You must be working your asses of 24/7! Hope you get some rest from time to time! 
Hank, do you plan to offer this flashlight with more floodier optics, like mention in this review.
Thank you
You can always buy the floodier optic by sending $5 to contact@intl-outdoor.com, we will add it to your order.
Hi Hank, I’m asking out of curiosity… why don’t sell products on Taobao? I know you have a store that you can take Alipay but you don’t list any products. It seems like you have a fan base in China as well but they might have trouble figuring out how to order.
I’d be happy to recommend your lights to Chinese people I know but it’s too complicated for most.
The short answer is, I’m too busy, and no time to maintain Taobao store.
That’s understandable - Taobao customers typically expect instant customer service from 8am to 10pm. It sounds like you need to expand and hire more workers to take off some of the time burden. 加油！
Hi Hank, is there any possibility of an alternative body tube for DM11? The current DM11 tube is too aggressive and small. The pocket clip is unusable too. I would love to be able to buy a 26800 tube just like D4SV2’s. It’s perfect.
I am also curious, why did you choose to make D4SV2, K1, and DM11 all have slightly different threads despite being almost exactly the same diameter where the body tube connects to the head? Being able to swap a D4SV2 or K1 body onto my DM11 would solve all of my problems with it. Please consider using a standard thread pattern on new models with similar connection sizes.
And make an optional tail cap with a hole for a lanyard.
You can also use a magnet, as in D4V2/D4SV2.
Hi Hank, do you have any plans for a Copper DT8? Thank you.
Is it just me or did the price go up a couple of dollars and the clips and other add ons disappeared
I ordered Nov 25 and the price has not changed for the version I ordered- green with green switch led, and 3500K, B35AM LED. Still $74.65
I never saw any other options listed when I ordered. Only the body color, switch color, and emitter.
Does the D4Sv2 already have the linear FET driver, or does is still use the old amc + fet one?