What did you mod today?

Were you able to test the emitter with a multimeter or cell or something to be sure it was the problem? Kind of rare for emitters to die in normal use (usually they only die from physical damage or when really pushing the amps up high for testing or in a hotrod light). I wouldn’t try to shorten the reflector, personally, but with some care you could do that by hand with a finer double-cut file, or sandpaper on a flat surface and time. If you have access to some sort of belt or disc sander that would be easiest. The reflective coatings on reflectors are extremely delicate, though, so you want to avoid all grit and dust getting on there if possible. It would be slightly more work but probably better to sand the bottom of the mcpcb instead, or buy one that is the same thickness as the stock one. If you do a search here or look at the stickied threads, there’s some great info on reflowing your own emitters - there’s a learning curve but it’s pretty simple really and can be done for very low or no cost depending on what you might already have at hand.

Also, don’t forget that Sofirn is pretty great about warranty. They’ll send out drivers or whole new lights (usually) if you contact them. Easier to deal with than many other manufacturers. They sell clips, too, and many other sellers do as well. If you had a clip that was the same/close to the same diameter but the ears were too wide, those can be filed down to suit, just want to smooth it all up nicely when the dimensions are where you want them to be so as not to gouge the anodizing on the body.

Thanks for the detailed response! My flashlight wouldn’t light up but it would get hot so I assumed the emitter was the problem. I did initially test the sst20 while it was still soldered on but it wouldn’t light. Weirdly enough after I desoldered it, it lit up on testing with the multimeter. Regardless, it’s working now with the lh351d.
Ah, I didn’t know sofirn would replace a faulty light, will definitely check that out. The original sofirn pocket clip is a little too malleable and not springy enough for my liking so I’ll see if there are any for other AAA lights i can use

Good deal, glad you’re back in action, and you’re welcome! Normal for emitters not to light up with a multimeter while still wired to the driver/host circuit…just not enough juice from most multimeter diode test functions (some can do a good 3v or a little more, but if the circuit is actually complete it will lose enough voltage not to work…but with a bare disconnected emitter all is well even if the meter can only put out 2v for the test). With warranty for Sofirn, they kind of expect you to go through the retailer first (as is the Chinese business custom, opposite of what most of us are used to), and if that can’t be done then Sofirn will usually take care of you. They have different reps for different outlets but messaging them on Aliexpress has worked for me…can also ask to purchase various parts that way and they are super accommodating. Many other companies are not nearly so agreeable or reachable.

Not sure about a good clip for that size. The only small one I have is on an Ultratac K18 AAA and it’s mediocre…plus I think Ultratac may have gone under. If you post a separate thread about that I’ll bet someone here has some good solutions or ideas. If you haven’t already, have a browse on the Kaidomain site to see if they might have anything…or possibly Fasttech.

Nicely done. What voltage is the driver running at? 6V or 12V?

I did some sharpening and color inversion of the image and it kinda looks like it’s a 12V. The traces from the solder pads go to opposing corners of the emitters split pads.

Deep carry clip for my variable tint Emisar D4V2:

This clip started as a 2-way clip for an FW3A.

  • I sawed off the backbend portion, then used pliers to add the 2 bends at the tip.
  • I’m quite please with how it turned out. The modding process only added minor scratches to the chrome plating on the clip. The lip is now big enough to slip onto a pants pocket one-handed, and it’s deep carry. Much better than the stock clip.
  • The clip is currently installed on an 18500 battery tube, but it also fits on the stock 18650 tube.

That is awesome work. Looks like the light came stock with that clip….never know the difference.

After looking at my previous post #10701, I noticed that 1 of the 219Bs was not flat against the MCPCB. That’s the downfall of taking pics while modding - you can notice issues afterwards.

I took the head apart and saw 2 others were similar. Solder was between the LEDs and the board so no gaps. I think everything would’ve been fine, but not up to my standards. So I put the MCPCB on my electric skillet, tapped down on the LEDs again, and was surprised as to how much extra solder came out. Seems just as much as when I did it the first time.

I put everything back together and now I’m pleased with how the pics look.

Not modded today, but during the last days.
I modified a Eagtac D25C, which I bought in purpose for this mod.

Modifications performed:

  • forward clicky switch, using the original PCB and copper contact ring): it doesn’t stay completely flat / aligned with the tail, but doesn’t protrude much.

- new rubber button, slightly taller than the original

- H17F driver, replaced the original one, but used the brass ring that allows contact between driver/head/battery tube, in the inverted position

- in the head:

  • as a spacer I used a copper piece that I ordered from kiriba-ru a while ago (initially thought for zoomie pills)
  • used a triple DTP MCPCB + optic from FWAA, with 3 Luxeon V2 4000K emitters
  • and I put a piece of orange GITD tape for the “afterglow” effect.

- the lanyard was made with the original lanyard but rearranged

- and the pocket clip was removed.

I’m pretty happy with it, it less big and less large than the OTR 311 which I was using as EDC light, and besides that, it has tha very configurable H17F driver that is probably my most favourite for clicky lights currently :wink:

This is probably my new EDC flashlight, and despite not being perfect it is a very nice light. As for the D25C, I like its anodizing very much, as well as the size (compactness :wink: )!!

Nice mods, MascaratumB. That’s a really nice little triple you have now.

Thanks Lotus_Darkrose :wink:
I was wanting something like this for a while, so I’m glad the mod worked out well :blush:

Oh, and BTW, this is not an original idea (making it a triple) since it has been done before by some other members here on BLF :wink:

Nice work MB. I’ve always loved Eagletacs original D series lineup. Best mechanical design around imo.

I’d love to see this next to a FWAA for reference.

Thanks JaredM :wink:
This was my first Eagtac, but I am impress with it already. The original UI, given those blinkies that appear in the main cycle after a while were not my favourite, but it worked well (tightening/untightening). Also, mine had a High CRI SST20 4000K, which was good.

As for the comparison, here it is :wink:
Convoy S2 (18350) > OTR 311 > FW1AA > DQG Slim Ti > Eagtac D25C > FWAA > Tool AA (magnetic tailcap) > FW3A 18500 > S1R Baton II

Without mods, the D25C is less than 1mm taller than the FWAA (74.5mm x 74mm)! It is smaller than the FW1AA (76.9mm). :wink:

Novatac Spa
modded to sw30
.

max was 90 lumens stock
now 190 lumens w sw30

What switch and rubber boot did you swap in? I have a D25C I’d love to convert to forward clicky

Inside the D25 is a completely standard ordinary clicky switch. Identical in size and shape to what you would find in a Sipik 68.

You should be able to swap it for any generic standard clicky. Just desolder the old one from the board and solder in the new one.

Yesterday I received my Sofirn order and to comply with air freight regulation regarding batteries (I presume this is a new ordinance), the 26650 cells (2x) were inserted in a cheap host. Well, one of those hosts is no longer an economical zoomie. A bit of modding with some extras I had and one became a fair light.

Smarter XLM -T6 mod

And some beam shots:


At 30” (75cm)


“Flowering” of the die at 12” (30cm). Is this typical of XMLs?


Outside at 30 yards (10m).

When I initially put this project together, many things just so fitted together. But some tweaking will be needed.

1- The emitter is too cold - somewhat in the blue spectrum (although not as much as that last picture, phone auto-exposure makes it look worst).

I doubt it’s a genuine Cree, but for what’s it worth, a closeup of the LED:

So I’ll change to the XML3 from the Convoy S9. I had ordered an XPL-HD for that light.

2- The rear-clicky isn’t correct. Always double tap to get the driver to respond. Even without the switch, just with a wire, the driver is not responsive. Maybe a cap on the board (MTN N-lite) to be replaced?

Oh! I forgot. Some specs:

Low – 26 lumens
Med – 217 lm
High - 560 lm

Tailcap at max: 3.4 Amps using Sony VTC6 fully charged. If this driver is rated at 3 Amps with 8 x 7135, would the excess current draw be from inefficiency?

I would think a proper Cree XML-T6 should give me 800 to 900 lumens at 3 amps (from their datasheet).

As for the switch, I used one of these (2.93€ |Taschenlampe vorwärts schalter|switch flashlight|switch fittingflashlight remote - AliExpress) sold by Simon of Convoy.
As Firelight2 said, you only need to unsolder the stock switch and replace it by the new one.
As for the rubber boot, that one was from another flashlight (eventually Convoy T2?) and fit well, without protruding too much. I don’t have measurements, but I would say that you can find some suitable here, eventually the 14x6mm or 14x8mm:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Silicone-Tailcaps/708513_10000003674535.html

The original one will not work well as it is too short for the forward switch.

Today I decided to try how many amperes I can get Wildtrail WT3M to draw. I changed SST40’s to 5000K XHP50.2’s from Sofirn. I managed to squeeze 26awg wires parallel to the original wires through the small hole in the mcpcb. I also did double spring by-passes with 24awg wire. I also did solder “beds” to both springs that I filed flat. I theorized that it provides bigger contact surface to battery poles.

I measured current with Uni-t 210e clamp meter and 16awg wire and used Molicel P42 battery.

At start it draw 30.5 amperes and stayed above 30 A for a while. Too bad I don’t have any equipment to measure lumens.

I call this trial a success. :smiley:

congrats on your mod

imo, no, the cross in the middle of the beam at 12” is not normal, in the lights I use… but I dont have your light

when I see that cross, I believe the LED is too low, relative to the bottom of the reflector… I sometimes sand the centering ring to be thinner, to bring the base of the reflector closer to the base of the LED…

at other times I lift the mcpcb with a shim. Copper sheet is recommended. I also have had success using thermal tape, folded into the necessary thickness under the mcpcb, instead of thermal paste.

at other times I remove the centering ring that is lifting the reflector too high above the LED, and install Kapton tape instead, to make sure there is no short circuit from reflector to LED and the solder joints on the mcpcb