Soo, is the driver still the good ol' FET + N linear regulators.. ? Or is it now finally an efficient buck ? (which would be my only incentive to buy this light for the 3rd time.. :| )
Also, too bad the side switch only has a single color option and not much practical use (all I care is for the "AUX" LED's to move from the business end into the switch to indicate stuff like the batt lvl.)
I would go Sofirn style on the indicator switch light which stays on for ~5 sec. when light is powered on indicating the batt. lvl. in a red <to> green "spectrum" (red > orange > yellow > lime > green)
I would use the "extra" Blue color as an indicator aid while navigating menus instead or along with the main emitters "buzz" (also maybe even use it as a switch "beacon"/"locator" as other lights)
Basically I'd remove the possibility to blind oneself while playing with the AUX lights which are now on the same side as the.. business.. "blinding end" and use the powers of RGB to do.. practical stuff
To me the AUX lights as they are implemented right now are just a gimmick and serve no practical purpose than.. well, "Auxiliary drain" :)) and maybe a bit of fun for 5 minutes when you first get the light.
I like the aux LEDs on my D4v2 lights. I use them on the “dim” setting. They’re very helpful for finding the light at night when it is used as a bedside light.
However, I agree it would be really nice if the switch light used multi-colored LEDs, turned to high-brightness when the light was on, and changed color to indicate battery charge level at least while the light is on.
I believe there is a function in anduril they tells you the battery status with the help of the aux LEDs. Please tell me If I’m wrong. But I think I read something about that just the other day.
I think it is hardware. I think the LEDs under the D4V2’s switch are monochrome. It’s why the purchaser has to choose their color at the time of purchase.
Updating the switch light to full color but that would likely require a redesign of the switch PCB and possible more wires to the switch. There might also be an issue of needing an additional output from the MCU if the switch light is to perform differently than the bezel backlight.
Hopefully, Hank will do that for the next version….
Both, bit not necessarily an issue. It’s just the design choices that were made based on the judgement of those doing the work (Toykeeper and Hank).
If everything fits, RGB LED’s could be installed in the switch recess, and the existing outputs from the driver could be wired to the switch, probably even in parallel with front aux board. However, the D4 switch recess is pretty tight. Also, you would need a new PCB for the RGB switch LED’s versus single color.
If you want them to behave different than the front aux LED’s currently do, such as only being illuminated for 5 seconds when the light is turned on, that requires a customized version of Anduril. Since it is open source, those inclined to learn Python can do it themselves. Otherwise it’s not likely to happen unless someone else with the knowledge how to do it puts the time into it.
Yes, it's the mode in which I always keep my AUX lights (edited Anduril with my own colors in only R to G spectrum)
But.. I always keep my Emisars with the AUX LED's Off.. because I'm usually of the "set and forget" mindset.
If the K1 has RGB switch Indicator LED's I can only assume that they are exactly what I'm after (hardware wise) just not in the right light. The K1 simply didn't had a front facing placement for the LED's because.. well, huge Al reflector and all.. But yep, all in all they're basically the regular D4's AUX LED's physically moved under the switch and as such, they should behave the same exact way as those, so, yes, that's a definite improvement. The only thing left would be to have the R to G colors for batt. status and the B color for.. indicating stuff.. And yep, I believe it's just a software matter in that light.
Thing is, I use to sit all my lights on their front bezel (that reminds me why I love SS crenelated bezels.. ) and as such, I would not really see the AUX lights even in the dark, especially with the D4's smooth bezels.
I just got used to do it this way as the bezel is the most wide part of the body as a general rule, many times is scratch resistant and another general rule is that many lights will roll if set on a side.. So, to enforce my "set and forget" rule, if the majority of lights will roll on a side, will more likely scratch on a side, etc. etc. etc. I found the best consensus to be front end = light comes out, (and that is lots of light, dangerous light to one's retina, thus keep away from view - And yes, if anyone has to ask, I did, accidentally.. blasted these things right into my eyes.. one too many times :| ) set the light on this side, (as it's the most stable and also protects the lens) and side switch = interact & indicate (tail stand, on a side, on the bezel, regardless which is it, the light coming from it will never be potentially completely blocked)
K9.3 is the only 2-channel model from Hank that has FET enabled. The others all have FET drive disabled in their firmware, but it can be re-enabled (on channel 1 only) via a firmware reflash.
All 2-channel hanklights (except K9.3) are 9A per channel with most emitters. If you choose 219B’s on one channel, that channel will be 5A. If you choose E21A’s, each channel will be 3.8A (because you have to get E21A’s on both channels).
K9.3 is the exception, because it comes with 9A+FET drive on channel 1 and 5A drive on channel 2, unless you get E21A’s on channel 1, then it’s limited to 9A on channel 1.
There is two options for the firmware update one says tintramp fet and the other just says tintramp. do you know which one is for which my light mine has both 219 B on both channels?
It ensables the FET (direct-drive turbo) on CH1. It probably shouldn’t be used though, that’s probably too much power for just two LEDs. If you have the dual-channel DT8, this FET-enabled firmware will be a good match that will allow for higher output on turbo.
Yeah, you have to be very careful with battery selection to use FET on two Leds. None of the available Leds in the D4 or D4s can take 15A individually (the amount a good battery will deliver with direct drive). I had hoped the FET could be used with W2s but it’s just too much current. Also, W2 output goes down after 8-9A even if it doesn’t burn out. FET for four W2s in the DT8 is perfect though (about 7.5A each).
In general terms, this post is a must read. When I was first getting into the “performance” flashlight game, I had no concept of the relationship between power source, driver, emitter, and the consequences of overdriving LED’s. This coupled with the lack of published acceptable parameters from manufacturers regarding cell compatibility nearly cost me a couple of lights due to excessive cell amperage (ie, poorly researched/ chosen cells). I’m not a ‘modder’, so chances are those lights would be in a landfill if I hadn’t gotten some sage advice…mostly from the good and knowledgeable folks here at BLF. So thanks for elaborating on this nuance. Good stuff.
