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What diameter are the MCPCB’s currently in the light? If they are 16mm, you can possibly just swap them out and use 16mm MCPCB made for XPG footprint to use SST20, with some modification of course to allow space for the cable leads.
If you like the beam pattern on the XM-L, probably best to order XML2 in the desired CCT and CRI. They are underated LED’s because they offer very good consistency in tint, and the warm white high CRI options look good as well.
Hello. Some time ago I also tried to completely disassemble my BC30 and only reached the LED MCPCB like you. The problem is that the radiator on which they sit is riveted on the side of the body of the light and I gave up further attempts to disassemble it. Best swap for it is maybe SST40 NW. I didn’t like Fenix choice for new BC30 V2 of 6500K emitters. If they were neutral color I would buy it. In new version remote control it is very good addition. For me BC30 is the best self contained bike light.
Interesting. I will follow your thread. I am also interested to swap my XML-L2 with more powerful emitters. Do you think to reflow only emitters or swap MCPCB without total dissemble the light and and only to desolder led wires? Also from your picture I noticed now that two LEDs are in series not parallel which it is also interesting. 
I like NW XML-L2 in original BC30. It is pleasant for the eye. Now I also measure with my Opple light meter that emitters are around 4500K and 75Cri.
The High Cri variant will be nice but not necessary. Now I have another Hi Cri bike light with Convoy M21B FC40. The beam is little narrow but usable. It also have sustained output about 1000 lumens which is great.
Assuming the light has a constant current driver, you won’t get any noticeable power increase in lumen output by changing the LEDs. XmL2 are already very efficient. The only reason I would swap them is to get desired CCT, CRI and beam profile.
What app is this?
You right. Fenix use CC buck driver but I need to compare XML2 vs SST40 if they are more efficient and powerful for same current.
Hi I have a simple MOD of remote switch time ago but need to assemble it and test it. Also I make some prototype PCBs. The idea is very simple. As you I also hate to press button all time for turbo. I have made simple circuit with 555 timer when I press the button to have like 5 sec ON time of output or more. I can adjust ON time with trimmer potentioemeter.
Bort see here: Opple Light Master III (G3) discussion thread (Cheap device for measuring Lux, CCT + CRI)
If possible, change stock optics to TIR to get less color artifacts and desired beam shape
You can’t. It is one piece of special TIR optics.
Its hard to find 5050 good led . Maybe you can get new 3V xhp50.3 from Digikey? 3000-3500K should be perfect. Warmer light better fog and dust penetration! Better CRI -better contrast and detail.
No for moment. I made PCBs and source components but because not used remote I didn’t populate circuit. Also it is need to make case for it on 3D printer or just to use some sort of heat shrink tube for it.