There's a bunch of new Chinese LED's that have interesting potential. I tested a couple in lights. This thread has a lot of info on them: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/67698
Sorry TUIG101. Thanks.
Mounted a YD5050 5000K in a newly bought SupFire GT60 - 3 cell, 52 mm head zoomie, de-lens of course. Decided to keep stock driver because of the 2 switches and additional tail LED's from a separate switch, bought here on Ali, but US warehouse - got it in a blinding 2 days!
Throw went from 30 kcd to 240 kcd, lumens down from 1300 to 850 or so. Only measured 4 amps on max, even after jumpering out the resistors feeding the LED-. It boosted amps only slightly. It's a "battery pack" light with 3 ~2700 mAh 18650's wrapped as one in parallel (3P), directly wired with no springs. You can remove it by desoldering the batt wires from the driver.
This was my plan for this light mod, though wasn't sure if 3P or 3S/buck cell configuration and was hoping I could get more amps. Stock it did about 6 amps with the stock LED so I was hoping for 6 amps with the YD5050 but it's high Vf must have reduced it. The wires are already 18 AWG - I swapped with Turnigy 18 AWG but probably made no difference in amps.
It would probably do over 300 kcd with more amps. It's basically SupFire quality. They used to be a popular light for us because of the quality, price and mod-ability.
Thanks for sharing Tom. 307kcd would be what I’d expect at WOT. Pretty good for a 52mm head. What is the lens diameter? Smaller than the b158 or same?
I had recently received a Yinding 5000k LED, de-lensed it, and put it in the Eagle Eye X6-SE light I had for a while.
The hotspot is almost TIR-like, it’s just so perfectly round. Really glad I bought one of these. I hope Yinding keeps evolving this emitter type.
Lens diam is about 39 mm, yes, much smaller than the B158 AT ~46 mm.
That’s awefully close to a c8 reflector dia. Now I’m wondering what the focal length and OD is and if it could be modded into a C8…
Also, those are crazy numbers for 39mm. It’s basically what I expect from my b158.
I put one of those YINDING ones (the one with glass lens, which they call neutral white but most definitely is very cool white) in a Convoy Z1 with the 8A driver (came with Boost HX stock). The spot reminds me of the surface of the moon, just with yellow-ish and blue-ish patches. 
I like that 
, but it is of course not ideal.
Sometimes things just fail. Can we post on our misadventures?
About a week ago a simple build with the YinDing 2mm dia. (5050 footprint) LED into a MantaRay C8.2. Driver P8000 (Kaidomain).
All’s good but I have a donut and many artifacts around the hotspot. Adjusting the LED height (in relation to the throat) I used a butterfly gasket with a square LED opening and noticed the LED would flicker off when the reflector was fully squeezed into place. Upon close examination, the LED lens had cracked.
My initial thought was a bevel on the shelf. Did some Sharpie inking and checked flatness with a die punch. Did a small clean-up pass on the lathe and re-checked – all’s good now. However, the LED would still flicker when squeezed via the gasket.
To alleviate this problem, I reworked a circular LED opening gasket and after some more tinkering the LED glass broke off. No more artifacts about the hotspot. But the donut would remain, even after using an OP reflector.
But my second bug – never got more than 5½ Amps at the tail. Different cells, some of my best current capacity (iJoy 26650). Unfortunately, the host doesn’t support 21700 formats. As such my best lumen output was a mere 1400 (140 kCd). But I liked the beam profile and tint.
So today I decided to reflow the YinDing, thinking there may be a faulty solder to the star, hence the low current draw and flicker.
Bad move – although I took many precautions, one of the bond wires broke. Made a futile attempt at repairing.
In hindsight, I should have tested the LED with my PS and checked if the problem is in fact a faulty solder bridge. The lens may have been broken if the LED die corners bind to the reflector. The die is 4.99 x 4.99 mm. However, the glass lens may have been oversized. As for the flickering, I had seen very little solder on the underside, but all the pads were ‘wet’.
I’ll be ordering a couple more of these and also another model (link ).
It seems like the same LED. Although YinDing states “20 - 2 mm round copper” and the photo is of a square MCPCB. Any thoughts?
Also, beefed up lumens – 4500 vs. 3000.
A shame about the, uh, basically entire tail-end of that one. Makes a full mod impossible without losing stuff. Thinking of swapping the pack’s cells?
It is a bit of a shame, but the YD5050 in there worked out well. Was thinking of cell swapping - probably could do 25S's and bump the amps. VTC5D's are the best but hard to find, and if you find them, pricey.
Wouldn’t a 2 celled light (7.2 - 8.4 V) with an appropriate 3 V nominal (3.0 - 4.2) buck driver better suit this LED?
And who would have such in the 6 to 8 Amp capacity?
2S and buck is always ideal from an electrical perspective.
Sofirn has one in their 2*21700 boost hx model. (Cant recall the model#)
What is keeping convoy’s 8A buck driver from working with 2s input?
Not sure. I could check if it can actually handle it but dont feel like burning a 10 dollar bill
6V Vin max for the buck IC used in the Convoy 8A driver unfortunately.
The other day I traced this that could potentially work for high Vf LEDs with single cell input :
Initially I made it for high power LEP. It’s a boost converter with fixed output and a linear driver after that.
The output of the converter is set slightly above the max Vf of the laser/LED, then the linear regulator provides constant current regulation and dimming.
When Vin> BSTVout , the converter is in passthrough mode (not boosting, it’s just a wire with a bit of resistance)
When Vin< BSTVout , the converter boosts the Voltage to BSTVout.
Hence there is always a Voltage high enough to get the desired current.
Simpler than buck-boost, especially at this power level (10A/4Vout for the full input range), but less efficient. For a light that is mostly used at max output it shouldn’t be terrible though.
But I still haven’t tested it (too much other stuff going on).
Convoy L7 has a very high power buck driver. Needs it for the SBT90.2 
Indeed, and it looks to has synchronous rectification, so it should have good efficiency.
I would like to try a few of these but which one do I order?
I want the one with less green which I think is the gold one.
Is the gold one natural or cold?