Refreshing my memory on convoy, any help appreciated

If it’s going on a rifle I’d highly suggest the C8 over the s2. I have both, the s2 is my daily carry and the C8 is on my AR

hi neo71665, c8 is a bit large for my intended purpose, taping to mag tube of a little lever action. How do you find the throw on the s2+? Which one do you have? I only want illumination of targets to about 100 yards

100 yards? Then even an SST20 could do it easily on a smooth reflector. My S2+ SST20 comfortably surpassed that mark before I dropped a TIR in it, despite the driver being 1.4A and the emitter being 2700K.

I do agree the C8 would be overkill. A good compromise between C8 and S2+ might the the M2, although the bezel is not waterproof at all. The M1 is properly waterproof, but it’s a bit bulkier than the M2.

Okay thanks thats good to know. I need full water protection as I live in equatorial tropics. Even what doesnt get wet attracts moisture and mold.

fellas so I got the grey S2 sst40 simon recommended with remote tailcap. Arrived in good order, gee these little things look and feel tough! I will take it for a test run on the 357 carbine tonight. Did have a couple of questions regards the light if anyone can help.

1. Will this have that parasitic drain going on when it sits unused? It will be a bit inconvenient if I need to pull this out at night and the light doesnt work. If so can I maybe slightly unscrew the tailcap when not in use?

2. Looks like it came with an unprotected battery. Is it okay if I use my protected olight brand button top 18650 batteries in it? I put one in it and it seemed to work just fine, but I thought I would ask in case maybe its technically too long and potentially damaging to the light when screwed shut?

3. Do I have to be cautious if I do run unprotected batteries in it all the way down? Or does the light prevent damage occurring?

4. Lastly, I see there is a programming setting for always comes on at high only. Is there a way for it only to come on at high strobe only?

If not I will just set it to only come on at high everytime.

AFAIK:

1. If no lighted switch there should be no parasitic drain, but Li-Ions can discharge just by themselves. However for 18650s it should take more than a year
2. The driver has it’s own protections including heat, polarization and over-discharge. Using two protecting PCB (driver + the cell) may not work properly. I’d recommend to stay with unprotected ones because: a) you already have it incorporated in the driver, b) protected cells are longer and may crush the springs (or even the driver)
3. The light will blink to inform you that the cell’s voltage is at its minimum. With the FET driver (I believe you have the one) you’ll aslo notice brightness loss.
4. There is no just bliking mode. Those available to choose from are:

1. 0.1, 1, 10, 35, 100%, strobo, biking, battery-check
2. 0.1, 1, 10, 35, 100%
3. 100, 35, 10, 1, 0.1%
4. 1, 20, 100%, strobo, biking, battery-check, SOS
5. 1, 20, 100%
6. 100, 20, 1%
7. 0.1, 1, 10, 50, strobo, biking, battery-check, SOS
8. 0.1, 1, 10, 50
9. 50, 10, 1, 0.1
10. 1, 10, 35, 100
11. 100, 20, strobo
12. 100%

Wow , just tested the SST40, powerful, good throw but too wide, a lot of lumens and battery power wasted down range for shooting applications.

Looking at spoonrobots chart with greater knowledge on the subject now I see why. Its really cranking the lumens to get that throw…

Of the others in that list( with the lower voltages and decent throw) would anyone know if they have remote tailcaps that would work with them, or might work with the grey tailcap? The blurb on the grey remote tailcap is it only works on grey flashlights?

Also does anyone in Australia want this near new SST40 flashlight, will sell cheaply. Its going to burn batteries too fast for me in the field.

Thanks 1 stein, very informative and helpful reply. Much appreciated!

The SFT40 emitter will throw better but with a small reflector you can’t expect much more.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003575225000.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.11.2cde14f2HvZhJJ

You should be able to turn on mode memory, access strobe, and then the next time you turn the light on it will be on strobe. You will not be able to use momentary effectively however.

I also believe the gray version of the Osram S2+ will fit your remote switch tailcap, this is a comment from the Aliexpress listing and it looks to me like they are square threads:

From this listing:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001543265036.html

However, the SST40 model has the best runtime. So the Osram model - despite throwing 300+ meters on ~700 lumens - may have worse runtime, practically and in lumen/hours. Depends on what your needs are.

Well I had no idea that after you flick on a convoy s2……….the light then glows in the dark! Not much good for hunting, self defence or duty use unfortunately. Very strange thing to have on a light, what is the purpose?

Well it will make an okay camping light, I’ll re-purpose it.

Whaddya mean, the GITD O-ring by the front glass?

Unno, I never saw the appeal, but people seem to go gaga over them.

Yes thats correct. Can I remove this and replace it?

Yeh, takes all of 5min if you have the right sized O-ring.

Got ring-pullers? Pill should unscrew, glass and O-ring drop out (note if it’s glass-then-ring or ring-then-glass), then just reverse the process with the new O-ring.

Some people use sharpened tweezers, needlenose pilers, etc., but ring-pullers work best.

Oh, and if you don’t mind something more permanent but way more waterproof, you can “wet” the glass and inside of the bezel with RTV, stick ’em in-place, and then keep the head glass-down but with the glass weighted down with a battery and let it thoroughly cure a week or more if you got the time. Don’t reassemble too quickly in case the RTV outgasses and clouds the reflector.

Any RTV on the visible portion of the glass? Yeah, you can wipe it down while still wet, or just trace it with an Xacto knife then just peel it off after it dries.

Also, while you got it in pieces, if you want to swap in a 20mm TIR lens instead of reflector, go crazy.

Best case for not doing that at all…it can damage the domes of some emitters as well. For this same reason you don’t ever want to use “kapton” style tapes that use acrylic-based adhesives (silicone-based is safe).

Mickb you might be able to fit a TIR lens to this current light to get a much tighter beam? (I am not sure, hopefully someone else will chime in). You could replace the glowing o-ring at the same time…

Thaaaat’s why I suggested to not reassemble it until it’d cure.

If unsure, bag it tightly in plastic, let it sit overnight, then the next day sniff it as you open the bag. Slightest hint of “vinegar” smell, and it’s not ready yet.

Realistically, given that you’re only applying a thin film, a day is usually more than enough. You ain’t sealing a rocker-arm cover…

Well, no, not really. RTV is one of the worst for long term outgassing and even post-cure treatments don’t eliminate it (this is also one reason why RTV gaskets are a one-time deal and need to be reapplied after any disassembly or shearing action). The acetic acid is one of the worst for any emitter domes that are silicone (not great for epoxy/polyester domes either, but less critical). This is highly dependent on the actual silicone product, though, and there are literally thousands of silicone formulations in use…RTV tends to be more like household silicone caulk formulations with a higher oil and peroxide content (butyl peroxide the most common, iirc). I’d pick something else for sticking in/around a flashlight head. If I were to use it, I’d try baking it for a full day around 400°F and that will force the majority of it away, but it will still offgas for a long, long time and the heat of any flashlight in use will not help to shorten or eliminate it. Open air cure, not going to help much at all even after a couple weeks, even if we can no longer smell much. (This is also a bit different than, say, silicones used in molds and the treatments they go through…including o-rings.)