I have the Keygos ‘8500 Lumens’ (cough) torch which has been handy for hiking at night but I’m selling it at full price and upgrading. I’m currently engaged in a lumens arms race.
I plan to mod it with the 7 LED Series 3-Mode Low Voltage Protection for Two li-ion Battery Circuit Board which I have alreay received: http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020166
So i’m looking for modding/driver installation tips, additional mod tips and cooling tips.
My regular weekly hike/run is 2 hours duration so I’m hoping that using a lower setting on the final modded torch will give me 2 hours lifespan and then I can use the brighter setting to blaze people/possums/roos, show off and generally be a twat.
Any tips greatly appreciated, I’m keen to set up additional heatsinking and liquid/paste thermal transfer.
My neighbour is an eccentric electronic engineer and one of my good mates is an electronic engineer also so don’t hold back on suggestions.
I plan upon documenting the build and reviewing the final result.
I might also review the unmodified UniqueFire UF-S7 and compare it to the Keygos ‘8500 Lumens’.
I suggest measuring the input and output voltage/current of the driver, so that you can calculate efficiency (and therefore, how much heat it makes).
Unless it is exceptionally efficient, you’ll probably need to pot the driver.
I’ve already thought it through because I have the 9x version of the driver sitting here…
My approach would be to find a plastic container that is slightly smaller than the driver cavity (ex. a pill bottle w/ the top/shoulder cut off), and pot the driver in that. Then, cut/peel that off.
You could then use copper or aluminum foil to take up the gap between the potted driver and flashlight body
Or…fill recesses/cover any screws in the cavity (I use play-doh), apply release agent to the cavity (light but complete coat of cooking spray) and then epoxy the potted driver into the light. If you do it right, it will still be removeable
I think the temp spec KD lists for thermal protection is a little lower than it should be…but I guess staying on the safe side is good. You’ll soon find out for us!
Got the Uniquefire 7 LED XM-L U2 flashlight today.
It is just noticably less bright than the Keygos 7 LED XM-L T6 which is a little disappointing to be honest.
Not a big problem though, it could just be a difference in the drivers.
For the others looking for such a better driven 7 T6 light, look into the Monster X100 thread. The trustfire X100 is better driven (and bigger) and is about 4amps at the tail with 3 cells (quite a lot of voltage sag) and 2.4A with 4 cells (less voltage sag). So don’t do it like 3 x 4A = 12A and 4 x 2.4A = 9.6A…hey it doesn’t tally man.
Expected to be about 3200 lumens OTF.
Your Uniquefire S7 shd be about low 3 amps region with 2 cells decent cells (TF flames 2400, XTAR 2600s) that are fully charged. That’d be a big diff.
sa11 of thaicpf shd have more results soon from his testing (Pok is monitoring).
$82usd shipped for my country from powerwholesale (same folks as Bestinone.net, the generic IMRs that most of us use and the ones that Shaofutzer is selling in CPFM).
How do you rate the Keygos 26650’s? I have some but no way to test capacity. There is a deal going on them on ebay and some of the guys were asking for specs on them other than the ones the sellers provide. Cheers, hope the build goes well.
