Simon, could you please make it possible to disable mode memory and allow ramping up from moonlight mode on the M21F and models with similar drivers? I think these features would be really appreciated, not only by me.
Simon, can you tell me what is happening with my 8A driver? Instead of the highest 100% mode I have some low pwm mode. I had it in S11 but I put it to S21B. I did not check if it was like that from the beginning. I thought it was a battery, but I have a new Molicel P42 fully charged now. I have that in every group. In the video, the first group and the change to the second one. After a pause, group 10.
Is there going to be an xhp50.2 3v version with op reflector for the new M21F? Should be a more efficient and usefull high lumens close to medium range light with a wide hotspot rather than as a thrower imo especially with the e-switch.
Noticed that Nichia 519A is now available on Simon’s store! I’ve hoped for years for such an emitter, being the first ever R9080 3V led with standard footprint and LH351D level output. My only potential concern about it is angular tint shift, which is common in domed emitters with large die size. If that’s a problem, slicing should take care of it, though I’d be very interested in seeing how CCT and tint changes, as well as output loss. A detailed slicing study like this would be extremely helpful.
@Simon: do you by any chance have a spectral analysis (CRI, R9, tint/duv) of Nichia 519A? Would be very interesting to compare with 219B and B35AM. Also, do you plan to stock 519A in temperatures other than 4500K? Thank you so much for keeping the community up to date with new emitters and innovative designs. We really appreciate what you do.
Some of these new models are using the brass post instead of a spring on the driver. Do they have the same issue as the S11? Even a small impact can cause the power to disconnect momentarily, changing modes on mechanical switch drivers. I imagine it’d cause a flicker at least on an e-switch driver.
I’m so not fond of the brass pillars instead of good springs. I noticed the same disconnect issue that others have when I got my M3C and there’s no great way to fix it, although thus far Texasshooter’s idea of adding a P60 spring in the tail seems to be the best. The new M21F shows the same setup with the pillar and the “triangle” spring in the tail…with a lighter 21700 cell maybe it’s fine, but for sure the weight of the 26650 and 26800 overcome the strength of the spring. On moon and sometimes lowest ramp, a slight bump will turn the light off. On higher modes it’s a temporary flicker with the stock drivers…suppose if other firmware was used it could result in a mode change.
It’s not a good design. Other manufacturers have been following this trend lately, unfortunately. Or rather than saying that it’s not a good design, maybe I should say that it’s best suited for small lights like AA/14500 (but then where’s the benefit of the pillar, right) or up to 18650. That or perhaps make the spring stronger, although there’s a balance of supporting the weight of the cell vs. too much resistance that may damage the cell terminals. Always the risk of positive terminal denting and/or driver board damage, too, if the light drops hard onto the head end or face.
Too much electronics being crammed into a small area. A light spring on either side works and protects the cell from bashing the base of the board. With that brass stud a much heavier spring is needed. How critical is it, is up to the user. Myself it’s a bit critical.
Some of hose pictures show it with a 26980 extension on it. A cell even harder to get. I hope you can finds some 26800’s. The format as a single cell light fit the hand well without pinkie dangle, great runtime and amperage. Try contacting https://alofthobbies.com I’ve heard they have worked out some of the shipping issues for European customers. Maybe they can help you on your side. The cells go for $5.90 each when they have them in stock.