My eyesight is so bad that yes it matters to me. I find that having the best color definition really makes up for some discrepancies.
only 100+ CRI for me
I voted Yes
because I do not need bright light
I need nice light
I voted yes, but I need high CRI only at close to mid range. I don’t care when it comes to throwers.
It depends on the light. For general use, EDC, and headlamps, I want high CRI. For throwers & mega flooders, low CRI is fine.
Depends on the use case. Not important for walking the dog, outdoor activity, running, working etc. Lumens and sustainability is often more desireable. But we agree, the sw45k is highly pleasureable. I also like the sw50 of the TIP CRI. Nice keychain light.
Hi cri is extremely important to me but so is cct and form factor,clip ect and the UI and the beam pattern. Sometimes we must make sacrifices. 80 cri is about my current bottom limit. I edc two lights. My primary is 4000k and 92+ cri and the secondary light is 4000k and 82 cri. I have many others that are higher or lower that I use for brief periods but certainly not daily. Sometimes I pull some out to use for specific tasks just to remind myself of why I don’t like them. Or if I get a new light a bunch will come out for testing in the house and in the backyard.
I prefer high CRI. Back when I got hooked on lights I did want the most lumens I could have. It was just a thrill after the previous low output, mass market, cheapy lights I had. It took a while but my preference for higher CRI grew and grew. But I willingly make do with lower CRI throwers.
You only live once. High CRI for me. It actually helps with decisions since it eliminates so many choices.
How soon we forget all our lights used to be 100 CRI. It's like people who get used to low bitrate MP3 files. It still sucks, regardless of your perception.
A good way to find out how crappy your existing MP3 collection is, is to get a decent headphone amp and a nice set of monitors.
You’ll definitely have a hard time enjoying low bitrate MP3s then. I went through this. And again when I started collecting vinyl.
Not to get too far off topic, but it's the same with audiophile equipment and TV's. You'll have people spending thousands on quality audio gear and the latest OLED TV, only to use 80 CRI bulbs in their house. I don't fault them though - that's all most stores carry. But if you're a member of THIS forum....
For as long as us consumers are willing to buy more and better flashlights, CRI will increasingly be a part of the mix. The average Dept. store manager looks at sales and finds that customers seem to like the newer high CRI lights, even if it’s a subconscious choice. Profit drives innovation. If the consumer can get a better flashlight than the one sitting in the kitchen drawer when it wears out, why not, especially if it doesn’t cost much more. Personally I’m looking to get one of those new x-ray flashlights. Turn it on and see your bones (smile).
So, to sum it up and in my opinion, higher CRI beams are on the way. Maybe one day there will be a small high output zoomie that has no artifacts/aberrations, with perfect intensity across the beam, with sunlight CRI, and a small nuclear battery that lasts for a hundred years. Hahaha, outlandish dreamers get the cherry pie and whipped cream right?
CRI is an important factor for me when I choose my flashlights.
… but only up to a point.
- For example: I recently tried out my old Zebralight SC62D. It’s high-CRI… but at only 200 lumens, the beam is vastly inferior to my 80-CRI SC62w which produces well over 1,000 lumens.
- I’ll go for high CRI if I can get it in the correct tint, and if I don’t sacrifice too much output. I’m willing to sacrifice maybe 1/3 of the max output to get high-CRI. But if I have to sacrifice more than that I’ll probably just get the lower CRI option.
- It should be noted that even among “low CRI” there is considerable variation. 65 CRI may look horrible, but 80 CRI can look pretty good.
- For some specialist lights, low-CRI is the superior option. Oslon White 1 in a dedicated thrower for example.
When it comes to high-CRI, I prefer certain LEDs:
- SST-20 4000K is my favorite, but unless you get a really good bin most are unpleasantly greenish. To date, the best I’ve found were the FD2 bin sold by Kaidomain from their previous reel. What they’re currently selling as FD2 must be from a new reel. They claim it is also FD2, but the leds from it look greenish and nothing like the ones from their previous reel. I don’t think they’re really FD2. Unfortunately, I don’t know of any source that sells proper FD2 bin LEDs that don’t look greenish at present.
- LH351D is ok, but I’m not a huge fan since R9 is low and the beam pattern is a bit too floody. Slicing it solves the flood, but does nothing for the lousy R9.
- Nichia 219C is ok. A bit less output than LH351D, but has a pleasant beam pattern and adequate output. R9 isn’t great though.
- I do not like Nichia 219B… and that includes SW45K others on BLF like so much. The sacrifice in output is simply too great. Every time I try Nichia 219B in a light, I end up taking it right out again as I can’t stand the low output.
Its a juggling act, in flashlights i want lumens. But low CRI (like 65) sucks.
In recent years getting 80 CRI or higher is achievable and you can still get lots of lumens.
My beater light is an FC11 with the high CRI and 1200 lumens, a good EDC.
But in a specialty light like max throw or most lumens i will sacrifice CRI for more brightness.
The right tool for the right job.
I didn’t think CRI would matter much to me, but surprisingly it makes a big difference when working on something. The contrast, perspective, and ease on the eyes is markedly improved with high CRI emitters like the SST-20 4000K, LH351D 4000K and 5000K. Now, high CRI is a requirement for me on new lights.
90+ CRI is important to me but it’s more than just CRI that matter. The DUV must be below the BBL otherwise even if it was 100 CRI with positive DUV (Green tint), I still would not buy.
Sure, for 99% of situations I use a light for there isn’t a tradeoff. High CRI LEDs are available in color temperatures I like that are bright enough to meet my needs, so no need to waste time with something that isn’t. I EDC a D4V2, and it spends most of it’s time set from 50-100 lumens if I had to guess. On the rare occasions I need more output (I think I’ve only actually NEEDED a thrower twice in my life) I can grab a light that meets that need.
Yup. Vinyl is compressed, just physically not digitally.
Not sure if this is such a great example for flashlights. I have a bunch of old vinyl that I took care of back in the day and a reasonably good turntable and cartridge. Have nothing digital that comes close for sound quality. (I know it does exist, I just don’t own anything that high end.) I know that the mp3 and even AIFF files that I have on my computer and phone, which I can play through the same amp and speakers as the vinyl, just won’t have the full audio quality of decent vinyl. Would I give up listening to music on my phone with OK headphones? Absolutely NOT! Way too many additional benefits for one deficit.
While CRI is not my top factor in choosing a light, when it is combined with a pleasant tint and good optics, you just get a better light with no meaningful downside. Sure there are applications where this may not always be true but for most flashlights it is. I have about 100 vinyl albums worth of songs on my phone. I have about 100 vinyl albums in my office. Truly enjoy listening to music and using my flashlights while walking the dogs. Bringing along 100 albums for the quality of audio…
Definitely high cri for me. Ever since I build my 219b S2+ I don’t want low cri anymore. Lumens is bragging rights, cri is usability imo.