What did you mod today?

Thrunite Ti3 V2 mod to dedomed 519a 3000k, w pebbled Tir
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I pulled the dome off right after the reflow, while it was still hot… that worked well, came off clean and left the glass shiny. The 2400k Duv –0.0036 looks like a delicious strawberry color.

^jon_slider: i like the color! :heart_eyes:

jon_slider, what TIR did you use on that? Got a link or specs? Thanks.

thanks, definitely a fun color

in practical terms, its kind of extremely warm… not sure I have much use for it, but its fun to play with

Tir link in this tutorial post

This is how it looks in a Tool AA Cu, dedoming has never been so easy, just gently pop the dome off!
I really like the tint now the end result of dedoming Simon’s 4500K 519A its somewhere around 3600 K.
It outperforms a 219B and even a 219c for sure.
With dome on, it is very floody. Now its a bit narrower than a 219c, however an SST20 is still more concentrated.

Today I modded my Convoy 4x18A.
I bought few SFH55 leds from Pioneman Store and spare driver from Convoy flashlight store.


There seems to be some design changes on Convoys driver. Right one is the original. Left one is new. I modded it so that it should produce about 25A.


I also added extra 22awg wires. Screw holes are different on Pionemans mcpcb. Well, I just have to screw bezel tightly.

And here it is. Even original centering piece was same, that Pioneman provided. It’s bright, gives plenty of flood and quite a good throw. Tint is surprisingly good for such a monster led. Neutral even on low and if I must guess maybe 5500K. I’m very happy how this turned out.

Thanks for the pics! The dedome looks very clean. May have to consider that for my next flashlight. I don’t want to dedome my existing 519As since I like them a lot as is.

So many positive 519a dedome stories and those mods look so good… really need to try this. Heat it up 1st or will it pop off fine at room temperature?

I did it at room temperature, just after assembling it.
Gently grab it on the side and peel it off like a sticker.

Oh wow, that’s basically as simple as it gets. A must try (once they arrive that is, package still en route)

Some reflow preparation with 3 different B35AMs. Ran out of drivers and hosts, so only managed to get the 3000K fully assembled in a S21A.

Since I had everything on the table anyway, I swapped the ugly stock XPL HD in a Lumintop tool AA 2.0 with a 219B as well. Finally got rid of that eye sore!

And I’ve always wondered if the 4 dies on the B35AM can actually be seen. Here’s one at 4,5V and yes the rumours are true :smiley:

I’ve installed many quad E17As and had to deal with their inherent donut holes, but the CRI and tint was worth it. OP reflectors and frosted lenses took care of it.

Do the B35AMs have a donut hole in the beams? How did your S21A turn out Verodin?

It definitely needs a OP reflector. Initially I re-used a SMO reflector since that was what I had within arms reach, but that resulted in a donut. After changing to an OP reflector the beam was good.

Haven’t played much with it after assembling (other stuff came up), but initial impression was good. As with most Nichias, CRI is excellent and tint is great. The 219b sw30 next to it is clearly more rosy though. But difference in lenses that might affect this. The tool aa 2.0 doesn’t seem to have any coating, while the S21A has the purple reflection AR coating. Also did a very quick comparison with a GT FC40 3000K and that makes the B35AM look rosy (vs more yellow for the FC 40). Such a shame these emitters are relatively difficult to get, they are so nice.

TLDR, it’s a very pleasant beam :slight_smile:

I tried to upgrade my Sofirn IF25A to use Nichia 519A’s. Too low forward voltage. I started with four of them and lost two almost instantly after turboing the light.

Lost as in they burned out? The thought of doing the same mod crossed my mind, so I’m curious to know why this didn’t work. After a quick glance at the datasheets I thought it should be fine, even though it might be pushing it.

SST20 -> 3.1V 2A typ
519a -> 3.0V 1.4A typ (but max 2.2A (maybe on turbo it goes way over this and even then 6A has been tested to work fine so that can’t be it))

Does 0.1V difference really matter that much? Haven’t gone through the numbers in detail, so I might be overlooking something obvious. And didn’t djozz tested the 519a to over 3.4V. Like I said I’m probably overlooking something…

In any case good to know.

Blew of the dome and phosphor and the led went dark. At 4A voltage difference is already 0,2 volts and as current goes up so does the difference in VF.

Good to know that it only takes an OP reflector to take care of the B35AM donut hole.

I can confirm as well, I tried several SMO and OP reflectors with B35A, with SMO there is always a darker yellow spot, with OP reflectors it’s gone.

Took on the Sofirn IF25A as well, but with the 519A plan gone out the window, I made my 1st tint mix. Nothing special, just replaced two 4000K SST20 with 2700K. I was a bit sceptical at 1st, but my oh my, tint mixing is really nice.

Stock 4000K vs 2700K/4000K mix

Btw, worst out of the box thermal paste job I’ve ever come across…. replaced with properly applied Arctic MX-4 now.

Does the LH351D fit with the optic? Seem to remember reading conflicting reports. Mixing might actually make the greener ones bearable.

I built mine with 2 original 4000K SST20’s and 2 5700K LH351D’s sliced to 1mm. That way I brought duv down and achieved about 4500K color temp still with high cri and maybe a bit better performance.