Nope. Go to a gas station and put down 10bux worth.
It’ll fill at top speed ’til it gets to about 8bux then will slow down some.
When it gets to 9bux it’ll slow down even farther.
By the time it gets to like 9.70, it’ll just be a trickle, incrementing by pennies ’til it hits 10.00 and then stops.
Same way Li cells are charged. CC is full-tilt at the rated current up to when the “pushing” voltage hits 4.20V, and then it switches to CV mode, just applies that 4.20V and lets the cell sip more and more slowly as it “catches up” on its own until the difference between “pushing” and “battery” voltage is small enough that the current drops to whatever percentage of the CC rate determines it should cut off.
Then how about this one? Just look at the time taken to say from 3.90 to 4.10 (assuming this is being done on CC part of the charging curve). Isn’t that part of the graph assumed to be linear? If it takes 20 minutes at 0.5A to raise 0.2V on one cell vs another one where it took 30 minutes, can’t I claim that other cell has 50% more capacity?
There are other factors that your not taking into consideration. Different cells have different amounts of internal resistance. This can effect the charge times. Even temperature can effect how well a cell can take a charge.
You can try all kinds of techniques, but who knows what results you’ll get. Like I was saying earlier, even with a known charger that can measure the mAh going into a cell its still only going to be a ballpark estimate of the cell capacity. To get better accuracy you need a dedicated testing rig thats calibrated and you need to know how the manufacturer tested the capacity. Some might start at 2.5v, some might start at 2.65v. The test might be done at different room temperatures. They may measure it at a certain charge rate. All these factors go into their cell capacity rating.
The types of measurements your suggesting are way more variable than even the basic battery charger capacity tests (which aren’t very accurate).
I’m not sure what your trying to accomplish. If your just trying to see which of two cells has a higher capacity you can do a load test. Put it under a set load like a flashlight at a brightness that won’t over heat it and measure how long it takes before the low voltage protection kicks in. Thats real world results there.
What batteries do you have?
Has anyone tested those models before?
Thanks! Looks like I can at least obtain those in a reasonable manner.
I have ordered a 26800 tube for the light but I don’t know where I am going to get a 26800. I’m not paying $20 for a single unit from an unknown Aliexpress seller. I’m halfway considering picking up the Convoy L8 just for the cell and charging capability. The thing is, I would much rather have the L7 or the L6 so it sucks to spend $90 that way.
Hi all, I made 2 silly mistakes when tapping into my cars wire a few years back. I removed a bit of the insulation and soldered to the wire using plumbers flux and it was really close to the connector socket at the back of the audio unit. Currently the solder connection looks corroded due to improper flux. My question is can I just resolder with proper flux and this will stop the corrosion? I know replacing that portion is the best option but I don’t have much length to work with. Hopefully the corrosion did not travel to the end.
If it were on wiring to sensors or modules I’d tell you to go through the trouble of replacing the wire entirely or at least a good portion of it, but since audio isn’t crucial if it fails and you’re still getting a good signal apparently, may as well leave it be…been a few years already so you’re not likely to see it worsen (it could, but it’s unlikely at this point). If it’s easy-ish to access, it wouldn’t hurt to remove the harness and closely inspect the connectors for corrosion on both sides, if you feel the joint was close enough to them. A nylon or fine brass brush at low speed in a dremel can clean up light corrosion without damage if you’re careful…would certainly be fine on din pins and the various snap-in harness connectors can be replaced fairly easily if needed. Probably fine, though.
Plumbing and welding stuff is generally destructive to electronics. Normal tin/lead general purpose solder is good to have around, or even a little handy-tube of cheap rosin core silver solder.
It’s a hassle but overall not bad to get behind the unit. A few trim pieces and lots of screws. Once I got the new flux I redid a few fixes from before too for safe measure. A clock that corroded from a leaky akaline and all the connections I made in my FILs car installing an aftermarket backup camera. I should check my spring bypass on the Q8. When I first started getting into soldering my coworker recommend the plumbers flux and he used to be an electrician. And I thought it worked great too other then the spitting it does. Only knew it was bad from reading online and here and then check those same connections which were all dirty and green.
Just a few weeks ago I had to visit an “electro-technician” and barged into his workspace. He was using plumbing flux and his Hakko was set at max – 770ºF. I didn’t think these soldering stations went beyond 500º. Bewildered, I inquired about his flux and the temperature setting. “Always used this stuff - cheap. It’s a Hakko, it can stand the heat”.
There goes my confidence in this guy’s technical prowess. To be fair, he mostly does the vintage stereos with the point-to-point component solders and some older PCBs.
What is the actual difference in construction between lithium primaries and secondaries? Don't need a real technical answer but a rough idea. I have several things that use rechargeable ml2032's and some use primary cr2032's. So that is something I wonder about whenever I have to make sure I use the right one. ML2032 about $4, CR2032 about 40 cents both are the same brand. Big difference for the same size little guy. I always figure I get my money worth with either of them.