The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

How many amps will 4 XP-L HI emitters pull in a D4SV2? Looking for a suitable 26650

The black Shockli ones are solid

Thanks! Looks like I can at least obtain those in a reasonable manner.

I have ordered a 26800 tube for the light but I don’t know where I am going to get a 26800. I’m not paying $20 for a single unit from an unknown Aliexpress seller. I’m halfway considering picking up the Convoy L8 just for the cell and charging capability. The thing is, I would much rather have the L7 or the L6 so it sucks to spend $90 that way.

$8 for a 26800 here. Not in stock at the moment but you can get alerted.

I’m not holding my breath. I’ve been on that site off and on for weeks lol

Thanks for looking though

Hi all, I made 2 silly mistakes when tapping into my cars wire a few years back. I removed a bit of the insulation and soldered to the wire using plumbers flux and it was really close to the connector socket at the back of the audio unit. Currently the solder connection looks corroded due to improper flux. My question is can I just resolder with proper flux and this will stop the corrosion? I know replacing that portion is the best option but I don’t have much length to work with. Hopefully the corrosion did not travel to the end.

Ewww, acid-core solder.

If it’s already corroded, it might have already been “used up”. If not, wet paper-towels might “wash” any residue.

Yeah, you can go over it again with new solder, maybe to build up any etched metal, but it might not be necessary.

Yeah I know lesson learned. Are you saying I may have lucked out and to leave it alone. So far I havent lost any signal or function.

Yeah, I’d leave it. Like drain-cleaner, it gets “used up” as it eats stuff, so…

Thanks for answering.

If it were on wiring to sensors or modules I’d tell you to go through the trouble of replacing the wire entirely or at least a good portion of it, but since audio isn’t crucial if it fails and you’re still getting a good signal apparently, may as well leave it be…been a few years already so you’re not likely to see it worsen (it could, but it’s unlikely at this point). If it’s easy-ish to access, it wouldn’t hurt to remove the harness and closely inspect the connectors for corrosion on both sides, if you feel the joint was close enough to them. A nylon or fine brass brush at low speed in a dremel can clean up light corrosion without damage if you’re careful…would certainly be fine on din pins and the various snap-in harness connectors can be replaced fairly easily if needed. Probably fine, though.

Plumbing and welding stuff is generally destructive to electronics. Normal tin/lead general purpose solder is good to have around, or even a little handy-tube of cheap rosin core silver solder.

It’s a hassle but overall not bad to get behind the unit. A few trim pieces and lots of screws. Once I got the new flux I redid a few fixes from before too for safe measure. A clock that corroded from a leaky akaline and all the connections I made in my FILs car installing an aftermarket backup camera. I should check my spring bypass on the Q8. When I first started getting into soldering my coworker recommend the plumbers flux and he used to be an electrician. And I thought it worked great too other then the spitting it does. Only knew it was bad from reading online and here and then check those same connections which were all dirty and green.

Just a few weeks ago I had to visit an “electro-technician” and barged into his workspace. He was using plumbing flux and his Hakko was set at max – 770ºF. I didn’t think these soldering stations went beyond 500º. Bewildered, I inquired about his flux and the temperature setting. “Always used this stuff - cheap. It’s a Hakko, it can stand the heat”.
There goes my confidence in this guy’s technical prowess. To be fair, he mostly does the vintage stereos with the point-to-point component solders and some older PCBs.

What is the actual difference in construction between lithium primaries and secondaries? Don't need a real technical answer but a rough idea. I have several things that use rechargeable ml2032's and some use primary cr2032's. So that is something I wonder about whenever I have to make sure I use the right one. ML2032 about $4, CR2032 about 40 cents both are the same brand. Big difference for the same size little guy. I always figure I get my money worth with either of them.

I have a FW3A with XP-L Hi. I have 3 spare SFT40. What are some pros and cons if I replace them with SFT40?

They are different footprint leds. Other is ~3.5*3.5mm and other ~5mm*5mm.

I have XP-L Hi in 5050 not XHP-Hi, fixed.

One day that guy is going to piss off the wrong guy… Man, to think of how many ticking time bomb mistakes he has made! :open_mouth: :person_facepalming:

In my build I’ll be drawing 24+ amps (peak - turbo). Using an eSwitch for mode selection (Anduril) and a rear clicky, reverse, for lock-out. The Omten has 1.5 A - 250V rating. Will it be sufficient? And if it doesn’t melt, will it be a bottleneck?

Originally was going to bypass the switch and make a direct tailcap to body connection. But there’s the idea of a simpler way to lockout than a quarter turn. The eSwitch can be illuminated when there is a connection.

This is too good to be true, right? 26800 batteries for $2 each?