The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

If it were on wiring to sensors or modules I’d tell you to go through the trouble of replacing the wire entirely or at least a good portion of it, but since audio isn’t crucial if it fails and you’re still getting a good signal apparently, may as well leave it be…been a few years already so you’re not likely to see it worsen (it could, but it’s unlikely at this point). If it’s easy-ish to access, it wouldn’t hurt to remove the harness and closely inspect the connectors for corrosion on both sides, if you feel the joint was close enough to them. A nylon or fine brass brush at low speed in a dremel can clean up light corrosion without damage if you’re careful…would certainly be fine on din pins and the various snap-in harness connectors can be replaced fairly easily if needed. Probably fine, though.

Plumbing and welding stuff is generally destructive to electronics. Normal tin/lead general purpose solder is good to have around, or even a little handy-tube of cheap rosin core silver solder.

It’s a hassle but overall not bad to get behind the unit. A few trim pieces and lots of screws. Once I got the new flux I redid a few fixes from before too for safe measure. A clock that corroded from a leaky akaline and all the connections I made in my FILs car installing an aftermarket backup camera. I should check my spring bypass on the Q8. When I first started getting into soldering my coworker recommend the plumbers flux and he used to be an electrician. And I thought it worked great too other then the spitting it does. Only knew it was bad from reading online and here and then check those same connections which were all dirty and green.

Just a few weeks ago I had to visit an “electro-technician” and barged into his workspace. He was using plumbing flux and his Hakko was set at max – 770ºF. I didn’t think these soldering stations went beyond 500º. Bewildered, I inquired about his flux and the temperature setting. “Always used this stuff - cheap. It’s a Hakko, it can stand the heat”.
There goes my confidence in this guy’s technical prowess. To be fair, he mostly does the vintage stereos with the point-to-point component solders and some older PCBs.

What is the actual difference in construction between lithium primaries and secondaries? Don't need a real technical answer but a rough idea. I have several things that use rechargeable ml2032's and some use primary cr2032's. So that is something I wonder about whenever I have to make sure I use the right one. ML2032 about $4, CR2032 about 40 cents both are the same brand. Big difference for the same size little guy. I always figure I get my money worth with either of them.

I have a FW3A with XP-L Hi. I have 3 spare SFT40. What are some pros and cons if I replace them with SFT40?

They are different footprint leds. Other is ~3.5*3.5mm and other ~5mm*5mm.

I have XP-L Hi in 5050 not XHP-Hi, fixed.

One day that guy is going to piss off the wrong guy… Man, to think of how many ticking time bomb mistakes he has made! :open_mouth: :person_facepalming:

In my build I’ll be drawing 24+ amps (peak - turbo). Using an eSwitch for mode selection (Anduril) and a rear clicky, reverse, for lock-out. The Omten has 1.5 A - 250V rating. Will it be sufficient? And if it doesn’t melt, will it be a bottleneck?

Originally was going to bypass the switch and make a direct tailcap to body connection. But there’s the idea of a simpler way to lockout than a quarter turn. The eSwitch can be illuminated when there is a connection.

This is too good to be true, right? 26800 batteries for $2 each?

The company profile and pics look legit. link

Seems as they supply eBike batteries. So they assemble the packs but I don’t see any cell manufacturing. In one picture we see the break-in of those battery packs. But nothing of individual cells.

In the link, they have the more popular OEMs and don’t shy from the make in the photos.

If you were in my area, I’d make a joint venture and give them a try. Maybe the shipping kills the deal?

Thanks for the insight. Yea maybe the shipping kills. Minimum order is only 20 units which is much more doable then the other vendors I was seeing. Maybe I’ll give contact them and see just how bad this shipping is haha

They accept PayPal and the standard cards. As shipping, UPS, FedEx, DHL. I know these aren’t cheap to Canada, but their rates are acceptable to the States.

Now there’s one fellow that is touting (exploring) the market of protected cells (Is there a demand for protected 18650’s?). Perhaps he’s stumbled on some Alibaba vendor? I’ve had dealings with Ali and I wasn’t disappointed. The duties weren’t fully explained and I had to fork some $40 on a $60 order. It still was within the overall budget, but I hadn’t foreseen that such merchandise isn’t in the Universal Postal Union nor any special tariffs, be it was a small order of some 100 socket type LEDs.

P.S. If this company isn’t making the cells or re-wrapping, that would be a side gig selling individual cells. Their customer target would be the DYI bikes and other goods. They have quite a variety of cells and chemistries. Just saying…

I don’t know if anyone has tested and published results for those cells or the blue ones…just for the Queen Battery with the gold wraps. QB does not make those themselves and I haven’t heard anyone mention who the actual manufacturer is. We do know that the QB is a great cell in both current delivery and capacity. The specs listed on your Alibaba link seem kind of suspect to me when comparing with the specs and datasheet on the QB cell. The weight is heavier by quite a bit, same capacity, different stated standards for charge and discharge although close enough. If that weight spec is correct, where’s the extra coming from? Thicker can, good jelly roll magic stuff, thicker wrapper? That said, the form-entry specs shown on the Alibaba product page may just be thrown together without concern for truth.

It’d be nice to see some real test results on these to compare with the QB. Who knows, they could actually be the same cells. I don’t know if Simon has/would be willing to spill any beans he has about the green one…as the QB is out of stock seemingly everywhere for the moment, he’s switched to the green in his store/lights.

I guess my caution here if I were spending my money is ending up with a disappointing cell that ends up being on par with 26650 in real use. There was/is such variability in 26650 cells with few really good performers that offered anything over 18650 (and now 21700)…was a nice surprise to see the 26800 performance from QB that makes it a viable platform choice. If the green ones are lesser than the QB then may as well stick with good 26650 or even 21700.

[ Edit: Here’s a link to the QB page and datasheet. In the sheet is says that the cells were supplied by Piotr Wang Power Trading Company, whoever they are and if that’s still true.
http://queenbattery.com.cn/our-products/684-qb26800-li-ion-battery-cell-qb-26800-new-model-6800mah-30a-37v.html ]

Edit to the edit…I guess Piotr Wang is the actual company that markets the Queen Battery trademark/brand. So…who’s the real manufacturer then……mystery.

And another: The weight on the QB web page is different than what’s on the datasheet. The datasheet says 121g, which matches the Alibaba green cell’s statement. I just weighed all four of my QB 26800 cells and got: 115.75, 115.80, 115.81, 115.81.

For what that’s worth…

Looking at the specs from Piotr Wang QB they are about identical to the Shenzhen Qiyun offering. Same weight (121 ±3g), same charge / discharge rates, etc.

Shenzhen Qiyun Technology Co.

Piotr Wang Power Trading Co.

In the last pic, there is a mention of the golden coloured wrapper (above the weight).

Thanks to Correlux for the links.

Imgur compresses the images making them almost unreadable. Link in the pics.

When the OP stated “a deal” on those 26800, I was penchant to yet another hyped seller with fake cells. I’m always dubious of such claims. But after comparing the specs, they may be legit. As stated, would have to buy and test, and if someone else would chime in to cover some costs (or perhaps CollectEverything has a need for 20 units?), this may be an outlet for these batteries.

Edit:
I should give more credit to Correlux as he is more fact-checker and thorough than I.

I inquired about the shipping cost and was told $54 USD to ship an order of 10 pieces, shipping time ~13 days. That brings the total up to $80.4 before taxes or any other fees have been considered. I’d say $8 each isn’t too bad but I don’t actually need 10 of these for myself. I’m also unsure if I would have any import fees to deal with.

The ML cells can be recharged - if you try to recharge the CRs they’re likely to explode. And that’s the real meaning of primary vs secondary cells: primaries are disposable and secondaries are rechargeable.

There is also likely to be a voltage difference, which could harm things.

I exchanged a couple of emails with Aloft Hobbies about the QB 26800 cells. They don’t know who the manufacturer is, either, and their supplier isn’t talking. lol. So…may remain an eternal mystery. They are due to receive another shipment of 26800 cells in the next week or so, so that’s good news. May be worth comparing their landed/shipped cost with your source now. I’d email them to ask about shipping, though, because apparently their website software tends to go exorbitant for int’l shipments but they can do it cheaper.