Interested in 3 please
Mine arrived just today! Wasn't expecting it. Guess I'm on the team?
Woohoo!
After the Manu game 
Interested in 2.
Additions to the interest list since post number 1387
Post# / Added / User Name
1390 / 03/08/2022 / VikingTraveler
1391 / 03/08/2022 / allan d
1392 / 03/08/2022 / Mandrake50
1393 / 03/08/2022 / jimahi
1398 / 03/09/2022 / tronx
1400 / 03/10/2022 / HONDARIDER
1402 / 03/12/2022 / shooter52a
1402 / 03/12/2022 / shooter52a
1402 / 03/12/2022 / shooter52a
1407 / 03/12/2022 / xenohedron
1407 / 03/12/2022 / xenohedron
Had me confused at first. It shipped in "Simple" mode which I never use.
So far, the UI seems to match up well with the Sofirn LT1 Lantern A2 UI diagram from here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/65927, but could be slight changes I didn't come across yet.
First impressions
It sure looks awkward for a lantern - too high. Nice they widened the base to help stabilize it but it's still too tippy for a lantern, specially sitting on an unstable surface, which you can expect when camping. Don't know what they could have done better, but saving every possible mm where possible would help. Maybe a flat brass button on the driver instead of a spring - don't need double springs for a lantern - shouldn't be on a bike or gun for example. I get it though - using a high capacity 21700 is important, but I would have been in favor of widening the body and base even further, keeping in mind keeping it light-weight is important too.
I'm probably far from the best to evaluate these attributes though. Unlike the BLF/Sofirn LT1, the LED's are where you would expect them - just above the driver, below the diffuser. A nice touch is they used an OP reflective surface under the top cap - I would think that would lessen the loss of lumens.
I never opened up the top of the BLF LT1, so just tried a few mins ago. Didn't notice the top hex head nut, so used a strap wrench on the top, and that loosened it, so I then tried unthreading the top - boy, what a mistake. Pulled the 3 wires and their pads right off the MCPCB - :FACEPALM: . It's fixable though - just gotta make new pads, re-solder. I see now how totally different that design is from the Mini. The old LT1's MCPCB is on the top - never expected that. Should have researched/read-up on it first.
I'm unfamiliar with the specs on the Mini, but it seems pretty bright at max. Even our new kitten in a lit room had to wince when looking at it on max.
I'll try to take pics, maybe a quick tear down.
Ohh - the diffuser is unscrewable on both the bottom and top, with an o-ring on each end. I'm thinking it's not something that should be done often - don't think that plastic will hold up well. The MCPCB appears to be aluminum, interesting - haven't seen an alum one used in years, but maybe because it's amp limited, though I hope it's DTP aluminum.
I measured 1A on high so I think that aluminum will be fine.
Since the LEDs of the "BLF LT1M-Mini" are positioned similarly to normal flashlights, does the Anduril-2 version for the Mini now include "Thermal Configuration Menu Items" in the "Advanced UI" for "Checking the Current Temperature" and "Setting the Maximum Temperature Limit" allowing for thermal regulation protection or is overheating never an issue with the Mini?
I had it running at max for about 15 minutes and it topped out at a bit below 100F based on my cheap infrared gun.
The BLF Lantern target does not have thermal regulation, so the firmware in the mini comes without it as well.
I'm not even sure it's A2. Maybe someone else knows?
I measured 1.33 amps at max, so seems like they used 4 7135's. The lowest ramping levels are a bit jumpy. If they don't use a single 7135 for the low modes, that might explain it.
21700 Sofirn's for reference.
It's actually slightly taller than the IF25A up to the LED's. The bases are the same diameter. At the fins, the IF25A is wider but the head is probably heavier. Tubes have different cut threads - can't LEGO:
At max, amp measurements of 1.326:
Parts easily unscrewed:
Real OP reflector under the top:
Would prefer a brass button here instead of the spring. Programming pins are numbered - think match the pins of the processor:
Chinese markings but you can easily tell the 2700K's apart from the 5000K's:
Alum MCPCB shown in the cutout:
Tailcap spring, no magnet, and no magnet included:
My understanding is that the reason thermal regulation was not included in the first BLF Lantern was because it could never work properly due to the LEDs being at the top of the lantern but the temperature sensor was in the body of the lantern so the microprocessor was unable to make any timely meaningful temperature interpretations and corrections due to this separation.
My assumption is that this is not the case with the Mini, where it could work well and easily be included using the thermal regulation code already available and implemented in Anduril.
Thermal regulation might be especially useful in hot environments or when someone decides to use the Mini upside down because they prefer the light pattern from that orientation (assuming this orientation causes more heat retention).
Sure, but most likely Sofirn just took the firmware they already had for the LT1.
Silly question, but it bothers me after noticing it, I have to know. What happened to the 4th mcpcb screw?
Hhmm, funny, I didn't give it much thought. It didn't come with it. I can check if a screw threads in ok.
At 1.33A, thermal regulation is not really needed because the lantern will not get really hot, my guess is that the head will not get over 50 degrees C. Tom or Sig could check that.
Mine only got to about 100F (38C) when I had it running on max for 15 minutes or so in a room without any outside ventilation with the battery at 4.0v.
As I mention in one of the threads I don’t think that heat is going to be an issue.
Am I the only one that thinks it’s kinda ugly?