The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

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xevious
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Sidney Stratton wrote:
Just a few weeks ago I had to visit an “electro-technician” and barged into his workspace. He was using plumbing flux and his Hakko was set at max – 770ºF. I didn’t think these soldering stations went beyond 500º. Bewildered, I inquired about his flux and the temperature setting. “Always used this stuff – cheap. It’s a Hakko, it can stand the heat”.
There goes my confidence in this guy’s technical prowess. To be fair, he mostly does the vintage stereos with the point-to-point component solders and some older PCBs.
One day that guy is going to piss off the wrong guy… Man, to think of how many ticking time bomb mistakes he has made! Shocked Facepalm
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In my build I’ll be drawing 24+ amps (peak – turbo). Using an eSwitch for mode selection (Anduril) and a rear clicky, reverse, for lock-out. The Omten has 1.5 A – 250V rating. Will it be sufficient? And if it doesn’t melt, will it be a bottleneck?

Originally was going to bypass the switch and make a direct tailcap to body connection. But there’s the idea of a simpler way to lockout than a quarter turn. The eSwitch can be illuminated when there is a connection.

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This is too good to be true, right? 26800 batteries for $2 each?

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/26800-li-ion-battery-3-7V_1600396...

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Sidney Stratton
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The company profile and pics look legit. link

Seems as they supply eBike batteries. So they assemble the packs but I don’t see any cell manufacturing. In one picture we see the break-in of those battery packs. But nothing of individual cells.

In the link, they have the more popular OEMs and don’t shy from the make in the photos.

If you were in my area, I’d make a joint venture and give them a try. Maybe the shipping kills the deal?

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Sidney Stratton wrote:
The company profile and pics look legit. link

Seems as they supply eBike batteries. So they assemble the packs but I don’t see any cell manufacturing. In one picture we see the break-in of those battery packs. But nothing of individual cells.

In the link, they have the more popular OEMs and don’t shy from the make in the photos.

If you were in my area, I’d make a joint venture and give them a try. Maybe the shipping kills the deal?


Thanks for the insight. Yea maybe the shipping kills. Minimum order is only 20 units which is much more doable then the other vendors I was seeing. Maybe I’ll give contact them and see just how bad this shipping is haha

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Sidney Stratton
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They accept PayPal and the standard cards. As shipping, UPS, FedEx, DHL. I know these aren’t cheap to Canada, but their rates are acceptable to the States.

Now there’s one fellow that is touting (exploring) the market of protected cells (Is there a demand for protected 18650’s?). Perhaps he’s stumbled on some Alibaba vendor? I’ve had dealings with Ali and I wasn’t disappointed. The duties weren’t fully explained and I had to fork some $40 on a $60 order. It still was within the overall budget, but I hadn’t foreseen that such merchandise isn’t in the Universal Postal Union nor any special tariffs, be it was a small order of some 100 socket type LEDs.

P.S. If this company isn’t making the cells or re-wrapping, that would be a side gig selling individual cells. Their customer target would be the DYI bikes and other goods. They have quite a variety of cells and chemistries. Just saying…

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I don’t know if anyone has tested and published results for those cells or the blue ones…just for the Queen Battery with the gold wraps. QB does not make those themselves and I haven’t heard anyone mention who the actual manufacturer is. We do know that the QB is a great cell in both current delivery and capacity. The specs listed on your Alibaba link seem kind of suspect to me when comparing with the specs and datasheet on the QB cell. The weight is heavier by quite a bit, same capacity, different stated standards for charge and discharge although close enough. If that weight spec is correct, where’s the extra coming from? Thicker can, good jelly roll magic stuff, thicker wrapper? That said, the form-entry specs shown on the Alibaba product page may just be thrown together without concern for truth.

It’d be nice to see some real test results on these to compare with the QB. Who knows, they could actually be the same cells. I don’t know if Simon has/would be willing to spill any beans he has about the green one…as the QB is out of stock seemingly everywhere for the moment, he’s switched to the green in his store/lights.

I guess my caution here if I were spending my money is ending up with a disappointing cell that ends up being on par with 26650 in real use. There was/is such variability in 26650 cells with few really good performers that offered anything over 18650 (and now 21700)…was a nice surprise to see the 26800 performance from QB that makes it a viable platform choice. If the green ones are lesser than the QB then may as well stick with good 26650 or even 21700.

[ Edit: Here’s a link to the QB page and datasheet. In the sheet is says that the cells were supplied by Piotr Wang Power Trading Company, whoever they are and if that’s still true.
http://queenbattery.com.cn/our-products/684-qb26800-li-ion-battery-cell-... ]

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Edit to the edit…I guess Piotr Wang is the actual company that markets the Queen Battery trademark/brand. So…who’s the real manufacturer then…..mystery.

And another: The weight on the QB web page is different than what’s on the datasheet. The datasheet says 121g, which matches the Alibaba green cell’s statement. I just weighed all four of my QB 26800 cells and got: 115.75, 115.80, 115.81, 115.81.

For what that’s worth…

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Looking at the specs from Piotr Wang QB they are about identical to the Shenzhen Qiyun offering. Same weight (121 ±3g), same charge / discharge rates, etc.

Shenzhen Qiyun Technology Co.

Piotr Wang Power Trading Co.

In the last pic, there is a mention of the golden coloured wrapper (above the weight).

Thanks to Correlux for the links.

Imgur compresses the images making them almost unreadable. Link in the pics.

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When the OP stated “a deal” on those 26800, I was penchant to yet another hyped seller with fake cells. I’m always dubious of such claims. But after comparing the specs, they may be legit. As stated, would have to buy and test, and if someone else would chime in to cover some costs (or perhaps CollectEverything has a need for 20 units?), this may be an outlet for these batteries.

Edit:
I should give more credit to Correlux as he is more fact-checker and thorough than I.

CollectEverything
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I inquired about the shipping cost and was told $54 USD to ship an order of 10 pieces, shipping time ~13 days. That brings the total up to $80.4 before taxes or any other fees have been considered. I’d say $8 each isn’t too bad but I don’t actually need 10 of these for myself. I’m also unsure if I would have any import fees to deal with.

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species8472 wrote:

What is the actual difference in construction between lithium primaries and secondaries? Don’t need a real technical answer but a rough idea. I have several things that use rechargeable ml2032’s and some use primary cr2032’s. So that is something I wonder about whenever I have to make sure I use the right one. ML2032 about $4, CR2032 about 40 cents both are the same brand. Big difference for the same size little guy. I always figure I get my money worth with either of them.


The ML cells can be recharged – if you try to recharge the CRs they’re likely to explode. And that’s the real meaning of primary vs secondary cells: primaries are disposable and secondaries are rechargeable.

There is also likely to be a voltage difference, which could harm things.

Correllux
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I exchanged a couple of emails with Aloft Hobbies about the QB 26800 cells. They don’t know who the manufacturer is, either, and their supplier isn’t talking. lol. So…may remain an eternal mystery. They are due to receive another shipment of 26800 cells in the next week or so, so that’s good news. May be worth comparing their landed/shipped cost with your source now. I’d email them to ask about shipping, though, because apparently their website software tends to go exorbitant for int’l shipments but they can do it cheaper.

CollectEverything
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Correllux wrote:
I exchanged a couple of emails with Aloft Hobbies about the QB 26800 cells. They don’t know who the manufacturer is, either, and their supplier isn’t talking. lol. So…may remain an eternal mystery. They are due to receive another shipment of 26800 cells in the next week or so, so that’s good news. May be worth comparing their landed/shipped cost with your source now. I’d email them to ask about shipping, though, because apparently their website software tends to go exorbitant for int’l shipments but they can do it cheaper.

How bad are we talking on that shipping? A single cell on Aliexpress costs $7-10 to ship.

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Correllux
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Cheap for me so far. Last order was in October for two 21700 and it was $5.25. First time with 4×26800 and one 21700 it was $10.85. When I order from Illumn, Liion, or IMR it seems like it’s never less than $8-10 if any cell is involved, no matter the weight…they do accessories-only for a bit cheaper.

That said, the post office has increased prices a bit and I see that Aloft’s prices on cells have gone up recently as well…could be that shipping has followed suit, just have to plug in an order and see I guess. If it seems too high I wouldn’t hesitate to email them. Their shipping was ridiculously fast for the postal service, too, each time.

story
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One emitters suddenly burn out of my SP36. Are the other 3 LED taking more amps?

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What could be the possible reasons for a Reylight Pineapple brass not to turn on? I tried with a Li ion and a NI-MH battery. The contact should be good because the threads are brass.

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Retaining rings? Make sure everything’s snug.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

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Hello! Not sure if this been asked or not. I’ve been seeing a lot more lately the designation R9080 or R9050 when referring to an LED. I understand high CRI but I’m guessing it’s something more specific than that. Can someone please explain to me what those numbers mean exactly?

There’s no replacement for displacement.

Sidney Stratton
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Nichia’s designation. The first set refers to Ra (R average of R1 to R8 – broad spectrum), the second set to R9 (the redshift).

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So both are CRI90 but one have more red reproduction? Is that it?

There’s no replacement for displacement.

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The 2nd one, R9050, has less red representation. Without the rest of the analytics, I would infer a greener tint. But the overall balance is in the 90% colour rendering. It could have also more yellow or another artifact. Generally, Nichia’s are known for their good emitters. It’s white wall hunting and side by side comparisons that demark the small differences. With time, your eye can see these individually.

Yes, both 90 CRI

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@story, the answer is yes, as the battery packs will still be pushing about the same amount of power, which means current pushed to each LEd will go up a bit.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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Sidney Stratton wrote:
The 2nd one, R9050, has less red representation. Without the rest of the analytics, I would infer a greener tint. But the overall balance is in the 90% colour rendering. It could have also more yellow or another artifact. Generally, Nichia’s are known for their good emitters. It’s white wall hunting and side by side comparisons that demark the small differences. With time, your eye can see these individually.

Yes, both 90 CRI


Ah ok! I get it now. Thanks!!

There’s no replacement for displacement.

story
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BlueSwordM wrote:
@story, the answer is yes, as the battery packs will still be pushing about the same amount of power, which means current pushed to each LEd will go up a bit.

Thanks.

I have TrustFire TR-3T6, can I reflow 3 SFT-40 to replace the CREE XM-L2?

QReciprocity42
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Would add that although 9050 and 9080 are both rated 90CRI, the 9080 is closer to 95+ CRI in practice. Some higher CCT 519A's (rated 9080) measure above 97; even seen one measure 100.0 on an Opple meter.

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story wrote:
I have TrustFire TR-3T6, can I reflow 3 SFT-40 to replace the CREE XM-L2?

That should be possible. The XM-L2 is a current sensitive led just like the SFT40 so most likely the current of the flashlight will be somehow limited. You should use copper DTP MCPCBs, though.

CRC2
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Can anyone give me some basic information about the driver this light uses?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001973586200.html?spm=a2g0o.order_li...
Convoy C8+ with KW CSLNM1.TG and 12 group driver.
(I own this light)

Is this whats called a biscotti driver?
What is guppydrv?

Need someone to point me in the right direction here.
Thanks

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Correllux
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CRC2 wrote:
Can anyone give me some basic information about the driver this light uses?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001973586200.html?spm=a2g0o.order_li...
Convoy C8+ with KW CSLNM1.TG and 12 group driver.
(I own this light)

Is this whats called a biscotti driver?
What is guppydrv?

Need someone to point me in the right direction here.
Thanks

His 12-group driver is not Biscotti but it’s highly derived from it. Back in the day, ToyKeeper made the Bistro firmware, and then later trimmed it down a little to make Biscotti just for Simon. I don’t know if he’s still using Biscotti on anything but maybe…2-3 years ago he had some issues and then developed his new 12-group, very similar to Biscotti in features.

Dr. Jones, TomE, and ToyKeeper (and others) designed several of the popular firmware programs years ago, many of which are still used today. Probably a lot to wade through, but a forum search for each will tell you as much as you want to know. Richard at Mountain Electronics still offers lots of them and has good quick rundowns of each. Take a look at his drivers and scroll down to where he describes the firmwares offered…several have a separate page that you can click the links to read more about (features and operation, sometimes more). Here’s one that has most of them listed: https://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67&p...

As for the driver in your light, he says down the page that is has a max of 4.8 amps (4800mA), and he also says the light gives about 1100 lumens with that emitter. Measurements tell the truth but Simon is usually pretty accurate and he lists out-the-front actual lumens rather than paper lumens (those being a theoretical max based on component specs, not accounting for efficiency or losses from resistance, reflectors/optics, lenses, etc).

If you were to browse the data sheet for that emitter, you might expect the driver to only be delivering around 3.5 amps for the stated lumens and with the bin he has chosen to use, but again, all that extra mumbo jumbo reduces actual light output from theoretical. I assume the bare emitter he’s selling separately is the same as what he’s using in the lights (that’s usually the case), and if so then he’s picked one from the available bins that has a bit lower lumen output, but it also has a lower required voltage and a better spot in the tint chart which reduces the green a bit. This is what he usually does, picking one with a good balance of performance and light color, rather than playing the numbers game for max-advertising-lumens.

If you want to browse the data sheet for that emitter, here’s a link. Even if it’s all greek to you, it’s fun to take a look and I know when I first started doing so it actually helped me understand a couple things, and then I started to explore all the other things I had no clue about, and understood more after that. If it produces more unstupid questions, post ‘em up. lol

https://dammedia.osram.info/media/resource/hires/osram-dam-5515672/KW%20...

And Simon’s link to the emitter, where in the title description you can see the binning information (model)….which is 6N for “brightness group”, 15 for voltage group, and ebxD46 for chromacity/tint group (pages 4 and 5 on the data sheet): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001238336707.html

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