Gave me a laft, remember this is a hank thread .
lmao, good one.
Yes, I did read the article, which is why I posted the comment I did.
You might be missing something important…whether they “work” or not, they disappear frequently and can be gone for long periods of time. It’s a moving target. I don’t know about you but most people today have a hard time conducting and/or enjoying their lives today if they aren’t able to connect to the internet for more than a day or two…when you’re talking a week or two weeks…well, I’m just glad we live where we don’t have to deal with that (as a form of oppression/concealment). I’ll bet the ratio of people in China who can set up a network vs. the people in the US who can do so is probably a pretty wide spread. lol.
Blue Sword is right, though. And we should all be glad that Simon and Hank and the other companies are able to consistently keep in touch with us however they need to go about it! But all of them have alluded to difficulties pretty consistently…food for thought.
Yep, let’s go back on topic. In any case, if Hank, Simon, or any other Chinese manufacturer wants help to get past China’s firewall, they are free to send me a PM.
I highly doubt the green cells are the same as QB. Had a supplier who tested a small batch and it didn’t measure up. Unsure if/how aloft does QC on their shipment but I ordered from aloft since they’ve been steadily selling these for a while.
What is the best led to pair with W1? I’m looking for order a throw/flood combo now that I finally have 26800 batteries on the way.
Which led on channel 1? 2?
KR4 / D4S V2 boost driver (single channel) option is now available.
The boost driver upgrade is available for the quad version of XP-L HI, SST-20, Osram W1/W2, Nichia 219B R9080 versions, each LED receives 2A current. The driver is not compatible with Nichia E21A, Nichia E17A, and mule versions of the flashlight. Please be noted that the boost driver version does not mean higher output than the regular version, it is a more efficient driver(90-95%).
Thanks Hank!
How about the lh351d?
Yes, it’s availalbe, as soon as it’s 3535 footprint quad, it will be compatible .
Thanks!
I have a D4Sv2 with W2’s. Just so I’m sure I understand correctly, the difference of the boost driver would be installed is that the driver would run cooler and give longer battery life. But the lights would not be brighter or run any cooler or hotter. Is this correct? If this is so, would a cooler running driver affect overall internal temps enough to give a noticeable difference to turbo run times?
@Mobiuscorpus, the light would run cooler when it’s under regulation actually.
A good boost/buck driver is more efficient than a linear driver, and will therefore dump less heat into the light.
Thanks. I’m just trying to figure out how much cooler. I love my D4Sv2 with W2’s, so I’m debating on whether it’s worth it to buy a new one with the boost driver. I also want a different color, and would probably sell the one I bought when my preferred color wasn’t available, so I’d be getting two upgrades in my mind.
Sorry if this has been answered before, but does anyone know what the minimum brightness is with the boost driver driving a 4S configuration?
Mobius, the boost driver has no FET drive channel so Turbo output will be lower with the boost driver, especially with W2’s that really like to pull a lot of current.
Will the lack of FET hold back XPL-HI and LH351D emitters too? I would guess yes for XPL-HI but not sure on the Samsungs.
Yes. Assuming this driver has the same 2A drive current as Hank’s other 12V drivers, it’s 2A per LED which is substantially less than the ~4A normally pulled by most emitter options under FET drive with a full battery. It should produce somewhere around 2/3 as many lumens on Turbo, depending on the LED.
Oh man. I’m glad you posted this before I ordered. I would have been pretty disappointed if I got a new one and it wasn’t nearly as bright. Thanks for your expertise, Griz.
@Mobiuscorpus, actually hold on.
The boost driver has one massive advantage: no matter your battery voltage, it will try and keep output at the highest level possible.
A FET driver will never be able to do that.
Thanks for the info. I’m carefully considering my options at this point. One big question I will try to figure out is will the boost driver’s highest level be similar to the linear driver’s max regulated (non FET turbo) level? I don’t know how many amps the emitters are pulling at max regulated output on the linear driver. I know Hank just said that the new boost driver provides 2A per emitter.