It would have to be a buck driver since the LEDs are 3 volt. Makes sense for LVP. Thatās the only feasible way to achieve the current needs for this light. Iām hoping someone measures the current draw on it. Curious to know what it is.
When I turn it on and measure the voltage across the MCPCB wires Iām getting about 4.8V. Doe that make sense to anyone?
Hmm, Nealās description is correct for me; turbo is only accessed by a triple click from either off or on. I tried double half-tapping from either off or on and no turbo.
They make a 6v version also.
Mine arrived yesterday, I put 2 Vapcell T42s on it, I turned it on and I can tell you that it's scary !!! Brighter than Imalent MS08 and not a little I think it exceeds the declared 28000 lumens, I will do a test this evening to see how many lumens it actually emits but in the meantime I can say that it also has a decent launch and for the first minute a constant leakage sign of a '' excellent thermal dissipation ...
Interesting. Is it possible for you to access strobe? Does yours consistently take a triple tap for turbo or does it only work sometimes?
I have found mine to be very picky about the timing. If I tap too fast it does not go to turbo, and if I tap too slowly it does not go to turbo. I have to be very precise.
My sample has no LVP and it killed my P42Aās after a runtime test. This is after the light displayed low voltage blinks as normal and then shut off, appearing to be LVP. But when I put the cells on the charger, I see that they are down in the ~1.5v range. This not like a 1S / 3V light where a lack of LVP can be tolerated because the brightness will just slowly trail off below 3V. It ran at nearly 2000 lumens (with low voltage blinks at the end) until a hard shut off.
I gave them several more minutes to bounce back and measured with a DMM. It shos 1.9V and 2.1V. Is that still too low to be salvageable?
Man, they were so low that the charger recognised them as nimhās!
Are the batteries safe to use after being drained to such a low voltage?
So how many amps do you think itās pulling on turbo? To get that 28,000 magic number I was thinking about 50-60 amps. Is the tail switch electronic or physical? Switches and springs start melting at these levels unless they were really designed to do so. Did you see any signs of spring over heating?
Itās a mechanical switch. Reverse clicky. I am not sure about amperage but itās very large, much larger than most other switches. Here it is on the right, next to a Convoy 18650 switch and a Convoy 21700 switch.
Here is is next to an L7 switch.
The spring shouldnāt be a problem either. Check out this bypass design. Very clever.
I was told that driver supports LVP.
Perhaps mine is faulty? Or perhaps it was a miscommunication. There is a low voltage warning, but no low voltage shutoff on my sample.
Which mode were you using when batteries are over-discharged?
Medium
I was told that LVP will kick in 6V, and light is suppose to auto-shutdown at 5.6V.
Sorry, I don't have this light so i cannot verify from my end.
I see. Thank you for the info. I will contact Neal and ask about this. Perhaps he will be willing to send me a replacement driver if mine is indeed faulty.
He is aware of your issue. I forwarded your post to him just now. 
Where you have see low voltage protection?
Always only write a third function, Low voltage warn.
Not only on this light, in all Nightwatch light, Only low voltage warn.
1 reverse polarity
2 control temp
3 Low voltage warn
All UI and function or copy and paste light after light
Iām definitely interested in this light, depending on whether it has LVP or not.
- Has anyone measured the actual output compared to the claimed lumens?
- Are any shipping with the stainless steel bezel?
- Are the NS73V1 batteries the best batteries to use or are there better ones out there?
@tactical grizzly, when below 2.0V, I never recommend charging at these kind of currents.
I charge at sub 0.05C until the voltage gets back up to 3.0V.