So how many amps do you think itās pulling on turbo? To get that 28,000 magic number I was thinking about 50-60 amps. Is the tail switch electronic or physical? Switches and springs start melting at these levels unless they were really designed to do so. Did you see any signs of spring over heating?
Itās a mechanical switch. Reverse clicky. I am not sure about amperage but itās very large, much larger than most other switches. Here it is on the right, next to a Convoy 18650 switch and a Convoy 21700 switch.
Here is is next to an L7 switch.
The spring shouldnāt be a problem either. Check out this bypass design. Very clever.
I was told that driver supports LVP.
Perhaps mine is faulty? Or perhaps it was a miscommunication. There is a low voltage warning, but no low voltage shutoff on my sample.
Which mode were you using when batteries are over-discharged?
Medium
I was told that LVP will kick in 6V, and light is suppose to auto-shutdown at 5.6V.
Sorry, I don't have this light so i cannot verify from my end.
I see. Thank you for the info. I will contact Neal and ask about this. Perhaps he will be willing to send me a replacement driver if mine is indeed faulty.
He is aware of your issue. I forwarded your post to him just now. 
Where you have see low voltage protection?
Always only write a third function, Low voltage warn.
Not only on this light, in all Nightwatch light, Only low voltage warn.
1 reverse polarity
2 control temp
3 Low voltage warn
All UI and function or copy and paste light after light
Iām definitely interested in this light, depending on whether it has LVP or not.
- Has anyone measured the actual output compared to the claimed lumens?
- Are any shipping with the stainless steel bezel?
- Are the NS73V1 batteries the best batteries to use or are there better ones out there?
@tactical grizzly, when below 2.0V, I never recommend charging at these kind of currents.
I charge at sub 0.05C until the voltage gets back up to 3.0V.
Cooling fine better that expected.
big disparity of tint between my two light
One white (little blue) or cold cold white
One white little greenhish.
Flat top cell (40t for example) donāt make contact
Molicell P42A are good
First impression, 
UI same other Nightwatch
Two half press from on turbo
Three half press from on Strobe
Other, nothing
I just assumed it had LVP. You are correct that LVP is not advertised on the product page. But, Freeme says it should have LVP.
You need to charge those at very low current, like 100 mA to safely being them back. I have done this with success even on super-dead 18650 from laptop pulls at like 0.8 volts. They do take a capacity hit and discharge current will not be as good so those p42s might be relegated to under 10 amps. Youāll know if it is successful if you let the fully charged cells sit for a couple days. If the voltage drops rapidly like 1 volt per day, then theyāre junk. You can try another cycle of very low current, but it might fail again. You can also do a discharge test at 1 A. If the voltage drops rapidly, theyāre permanently damaged.
Thatās great advice! Thank you!
Ok, Iāve donāt reply to @robocop at page 4
But for me I donāt trust Neal info from Nightwatch, the pair is explosive for unvolontary mistake
Iāve change alu bezel for steel bezel without hesitation, for me no alu bezel for this light.
- tactical_grizzly mentioned 20000lm with P42A.
- You can order stainless steel bezel together with the light
- Samsung 30T/ 40T.
Problem with Li-ion discharged below roughly 2.5 V is that you donāt know if dendrites started to form. You might ārecoverā the battery just fine, but in a few days or weeks it might just catch fire by itself. Internal resistance, self discharge, voltage curve ā nothing will indicate that the battery is damaged internally. Iād say it is just too risky to try to save a few bucks. Take your loss and dispose them.
Since the batteries I bought for this light are potentially toast, Iām using another set of P42Aās now and with these Iām getting up to 22,000lm @turn-on. A 10% increase. Neat.