Vodak-Yarout, a really good perspective on this light. Iām agreeing with everything including most of the comments on the Astrolux EC06. Side switch a needed sin but dump the port and tripod mount. The Nightwatch NS59V1 turbo is really asking way too much from only 2-21700 batteries. The rest of the light seems good.
On my LVP issue, Neal relayed from Nightwatch that P42Aās are ānot goodā for NS59v1. He is sending me some of the āspecial batteriesā he has specifically for this light. If they fix the issue, I will pay for them. I am dubious that it will make a difference, but I will test them and report back. Does anyone have an explanation as to why LVP built into the driver would work with some batteries (Neal mentioned 30Tās & 40Tās) but would not work with others (P42Aās)?
I ordered mine with the batteries so when I get it Iāll post what batteries they are. Itās a couple states away but hasnāt had a tracking update in a couple days. Iām not going to test if the lvp does in fact work with those batteries because they werenāt cheap. Unless someone can suggest a safe way to test without actually draining the batteries.
Awesome! I look forward to seeing your results.
The safest way to test would be with a bench power supply. Alternatively, you can drain the batteries separately in another light down to LVP level (~2.7V or so). Then try them in the Night watch for a couple minutes on the lowest mode. It shouldnāt drain them too far but it should make LVP kick in if it does indeed have LVP.
Okā¦ I finally pulled trigged and ordered one. Lets see how this LVP goesā¦ and maybe see how some Vapcell T42 do in it. I might even try to get my hands on Vapcell T40s to see if those can push the emitters harder, @ 2000mah theyāll die pretty quick Iām guessing.
I have a bench top power supply at work I can test it with. Didnt even think about that. When it comes in Iāll bring it to work and check it out. Freeme says below 5.6v should auto shutoff so it should be pretty quick to verify. Just need to get my hands on the light first
Actually going to be a bit longer for me to test this out. I got my tracking information mixed up with my convoy order. My ns59v1 is still tracking as in China. But I will test as soon as I get it if no one else has yet.
Does anyone have sustainable output numbers for this light? Runtimes? A beamshot would be nice too.
Will include all that in my full review. For now based on the one runtime test Iāve done, Iām getting just under 2000lm sustained for about an hour and a half on P42Aās.
The thing with P42A from observations with other high current lights, is the 30/40T can ha dle higher initial current loads than the P42A can. Itās as much as 15% higher vs a 30T, which is a lot.
The writing on the switch looks like āOmten PBS101ā according to Omtens website itās rated for 3 Amps at 30 Volts, i wonder how it will hold up
Thatās a pretty robust switch good to see a name brand in there too. Itās also meant for AC 125V and 1.5A so that gives you an idea of itās rated capacityā¦about 190 watts on AC and probably 60 A on DC.
I didnāt realize it took button tops so the batteries rattleā¦ā¦ got to buy new batteries.
Edit: What batteries should I get?
You should get this high technology solution
And for me you need rewrap cell for verticale rattle, tube is little too wide.
extension top cell is necessary to use 40T with near same high technology solution.
Iāve lost my picture when I show differeenc between 40T and P42A with they raised top who make contact for P42A and no contact for 40T.
If you are in EU I check on NKON they sell P42A button top, but 2 ā¬ more the p42A flat top.
Or any 21700 unprotected with button top you found 
Iāve realize my picture shot with this ārondelleā inside my light.
I donāt understand the Nightwatch choice for need button top 21700 on this light.
This?
Use for 26650(NI40) and 26800(NSX4E) cell , too wide? O_O.
But itās fun to see Nightwatch/Neal response, I warned
I also got 40T cells, do you think a neodymium magnet has too much voltage drop at those amperages? I think itās about 8mm diameter
I leave this answer to more knowledgeable people.
Iām under amateur level for this skill, for me metal is metal, if thatās work 
But magnet is advice often give.
Those magnets have high resistance unfortunately and arenāt a viable option. I donāt recommend them for that. A copper spacer is a better option. You can solder it directly to the brass driver contact to take up the space requirement.
Thanks for the ideas, in the pics it looks like the driver has a brass post which should work fine with flat tops, just the connection between the cells is not given. Maybe Iāll bend some copper wire to make a spacer until i have a brass plate or something better.
2,000 or 20,000? 2,000 seems a little low for sustained output.