I leave this answer to more knowledgeable people.
Iām under amateur level for this skill, for me metal is metal, if thatās work
But magnet is advice often give.
Those magnets have high resistance unfortunately and arenāt a viable option. I donāt recommend them for that. A copper spacer is a better option. You can solder it directly to the brass driver contact to take up the space requirement.
Thanks for the ideas, in the pics it looks like the driver has a brass post which should work fine with flat tops, just the connection between the cells is not given. Maybe Iāll bend some copper wire to make a spacer until i have a brass plate or something better.
Itās about 2,000lm sustained. Not very high, but itās not that large of a light and I suspect itās using a low efficiency driver, so 2,000lm sounds about right to me.
I believe itās to ensure the two cells make contact in the middle. Two flat top cells may not make contact in the middle of the tube, unless the tops are a little bit proud like P42Aās.
I was browsing their site recently and every single push button switch has the exact same full range of specs listed. Seems like not long ago they listed everything as AC amps but everything there now says the same 30V/1A/3A, same resistance, same cycles. Maybe thatās accurate if they all use basically the same mechanism. We know they can handle quite a bit more than stated anyway.
In another thread someone suggested that one of Simonās lights had a āmore robustā switch but couldnāt back that up with numbers or anythingā¦doesnāt look like an Omten (not on their website anyway) and I couldnāt find a switch/brand with the same markings. I think some of the cheapest cheap cheapie switches use inferior plastic that will melt or deform at lower temperatures, maybe poorer springs, but so many of these are like the same switch with different contact configurations or footprint sizes. Ones used in our typical China flashlights at any rate.
Has anyone ever tested the resistance/voltage drop and/or upper limits of current for neodymium magnets when used as contact points? I was thinking about this a couple times over the last yearā¦canāt find any past threads or reference on BLF but it seems like I remember hearing it mentioned long ago. I suppose it would have variables that include the grade of magnet, quality and micron thickness of the nickel plating, contact pressure between points, etc. It would be interesting to see the numbers, though, for something like a typical N35 lower cost version.
2.000 on static environement, probably at 20 celcius degres.
In exterior in dynamics environement in night at 10-15 degres can only increase this base perform.
This is the dissociation to be done on these tests.
The EC06 who was a brick have close similar perform compare to test environement statics
Any host with an effort on thermal design have a much bigger difference between the test indoor and the reality outdoor.
Of course, more the night is cold, more the perform is high more the gap is high between brick and host with fine :laughing:
For example my Nightwatch NI40 with SBT 90.2 under 5 celcius degres was pretty hard to overheat, itās a real pleasure to use , In summer at 15-20 degres itās really eazy to overheat and have a burning light in hand
In fact with this thermal design, use this light with an other for creat a duo is interresting, they heat down very fast when you donāt use.
So 2K sustain on static is good, memory EC06 sustain 1500 lumens at static environnement 20 celcius degres so :laughing:
With this design, no reason Nightwatch too low
If anyone have lumens output at medium, I can compare (feeling only) with my two light during a night walk.
For check if I see with naked eye difference between one light after 10 (or more) minute at medium and light not use with full cell.
No my interrest yesterday just fun for this quick use, In fact I found the body was ācoldā for a nightwatch with this output with reasonnable heat at head and a sensation of cooldown at medium after hard push in High/turbo, Not stay at high temp in head with reasonnable output on medium mode.
Its assumption for the moment I have to try it more, but the first impression after 2 hours outdoor is really good about heat gestion.
Off course, you are in right, I had forgotten this notion :cry:
Excellent point! I do runtime tests in a small room with the door closed. The ambient temperature is 20-21C and the air conditioning comes on periodically, but does not blow directly on the light. I do this for consistency, but you are absolutely correct that real-world use of a light outside when you are holding it and with air moving over it will result in higher sustained output.
Iām pretty happy with the light. It is by far the brightest light I have. It get hot very quick but that is understandable with the output. I donāt have any kind of measuring gear but itās bright. It cuts on and off a lot because I donāt have a spacer to accommodate flat top to button top but that is fixable. I have a 21mm PCB board spacer from convoy on the way that will hopefully work. (If not let me know or if there is a better option)
The light seems well made. Threads are good. Button is pretty beefy. Overall pretty happy.
Donāt keep that for the futur, I search next week a similar copper 3-5 mm for put beetween the two and that was nice.
Happy you like this light.
Nightwatch make generally good job, the big con is they release only cool white LED, after that if cool white only is not a con .
Reason I buy 2 by 2 Nightwatch light, I use it without respect so I keep a back up if the first died.
They have release better host (and I expected worse, finally itās still very acceptable) but for this price :+1:
The package didnāt include any āOā rings, lanyard, or manual. But there are two ātacticalā aluminum rings.
Put in two flat-top 21700 Wurkkos batteries together with a Convoy 21mm spacer on top. And it works OK. The powerful beam is floody.
I wonder what brand of 21700 button top batteries with 40A discharge rate you will get if ordered them together with this flashlight. Not easy to find button top batteries with such high discharge power.
The body can be separated into two shorter tubes. But when putting in only one battery cell, the flashlight doesnāt work. Need to put in two battery cells.