ALL FREEME🍀 x 1THEDEALS Group Buy >> HOT ✌ EC01X/ EC07/ ED01/ EA01/ LT2 ✌

Thanks for the ideas, in the pics it looks like the driver has a brass post which should work fine with flat tops, just the connection between the cells is not given. Maybe I’ll bend some copper wire to make a spacer until i have a brass plate or something better.

2,000 or 20,000? 2,000 seems a little low for sustained output.

If the flashlight starts at 22,000 lumens, I wouldn't be surprised if the sustained lumens are only 2,000 lumens.

Unfortunately, that's pretty common with flashlights.

It’s about 2,000lm sustained. Not very high, but it’s not that large of a light and I suspect it’s using a low efficiency driver, so 2,000lm sounds about right to me.

I believe it’s to ensure the two cells make contact in the middle. Two flat top cells may not make contact in the middle of the tube, unless the tops are a little bit proud like P42A’s.

I was browsing their site recently and every single push button switch has the exact same full range of specs listed. Seems like not long ago they listed everything as AC amps but everything there now says the same 30V/1A/3A, same resistance, same cycles. Maybe that’s accurate if they all use basically the same mechanism. We know they can handle quite a bit more than stated anyway.

In another thread someone suggested that one of Simon’s lights had a “more robust” switch but couldn’t back that up with numbers or anything…doesn’t look like an Omten (not on their website anyway) and I couldn’t find a switch/brand with the same markings. I think some of the cheapest cheap cheapie switches use inferior plastic that will melt or deform at lower temperatures, maybe poorer springs, but so many of these are like the same switch with different contact configurations or footprint sizes. Ones used in our typical China flashlights at any rate.

Has anyone ever tested the resistance/voltage drop and/or upper limits of current for neodymium magnets when used as contact points? I was thinking about this a couple times over the last year…can’t find any past threads or reference on BLF but it seems like I remember hearing it mentioned long ago. I suppose it would have variables that include the grade of magnet, quality and micron thickness of the nickel plating, contact pressure between points, etc. It would be interesting to see the numbers, though, for something like a typical N35 lower cost version.

2.000 on static environement, probably at 20 celcius degres.
In exterior in dynamics environement in night at 10-15 degres can only increase this base perform.
This is the dissociation to be done on these tests.
The EC06 who was a brick have close similar perform compare to test environement statics
Any host with an effort on thermal design have a much bigger difference between the test indoor and the reality outdoor.
Of course, more the night is cold, more the perform is high more the gap is high between brick and host with fine :laughing:
For example my Nightwatch NI40 with SBT 90.2 under 5 celcius degres was pretty hard to overheat, it’s a real pleasure to use :smiley: , In summer at 15-20 degres it’s really eazy to overheat and have a burning light in hand :slight_smile:

In fact with this thermal design, use this light with an other for creat a duo is interresting, they heat down very fast when you don’t use.

So 2K sustain on static is good, memory EC06 sustain 1500 lumens at static environnement 20 celcius degres so :laughing:
With this design, no reason Nightwatch too low

If anyone have lumens output at medium, I can compare (feeling only) with my two light during a night walk.
For check if I see with naked eye difference between one light after 10 (or more) minute at medium and light not use with full cell.
No my interrest yesterday just fun for this quick use, In fact I found the body was “cold” for a nightwatch with this output with reasonnable heat at head and a sensation of cooldown at medium after hard push in High/turbo, Not stay at high temp in head with reasonnable output on medium mode.
Its assumption for the moment I have to try it more, but the first impression after 2 hours outdoor is really good about heat gestion.

Off course, you are in right, I had forgotten this notion :cry:

Excellent point! I do runtime tests in a small room with the door closed. The ambient temperature is 20-21C and the air conditioning comes on periodically, but does not blow directly on the light. I do this for consistency, but you are absolutely correct that real-world use of a light outside when you are holding it and with air moving over it will result in higher sustained output.

I’m pretty happy with the light. It is by far the brightest light I have. It get hot very quick but that is understandable with the output. I don’t have any kind of measuring gear but it’s bright. It cuts on and off a lot because I don’t have a spacer to accommodate flat top to button top but that is fixable. I have a 21mm PCB board spacer from convoy on the way that will hopefully work. (If not let me know or if there is a better option)

The light seems well made. Threads are good. Button is pretty beefy. Overall pretty happy.

Not really. Very few lights can sustain more than 1,500lm for 10+ minutes.

No worry with that, i’ve use this for my test

Don’t keep that for the futur, I search next week a similar copper 3-5 mm for put beetween the two and that was nice.

Happy you like this light.
Nightwatch make generally good job, the big con is they release only cool white LED, after that if cool white only is not a con :blush: .
Reason I buy 2 by 2 Nightwatch light, I use it without respect so I keep a back up if the first died.
They have release better host (and I expected worse, finally it’s still very acceptable) but for this price :+1:

Just ordered one with batteries and SS bezel, thanks FREEME.

Also grabbed an Amutorch XT60 SFT40 while I was at it, discount code applied to the XT60 as well, paid $64.46 with battery…

Got my “CHAOS” flashlight this afternoon.

The package didn’t include any “O” rings, lanyard, or manual. But there are two “tactical” aluminum rings.

Put in two flat-top 21700 Wurkkos batteries together with a Convoy 21mm spacer on top. And it works OK. The powerful beam is floody.

I wonder what brand of 21700 button top batteries with 40A discharge rate you will get if ordered them together with this flashlight. Not easy to find button top batteries with such high discharge power.

The body can be separated into two shorter tubes. But when putting in only one battery cell, the flashlight doesn’t work. Need to put in two battery cells.

Very good, I use those to convert my Vapcell T42 from flat-top to button-top

Could someone please post a link to the mentioned 21mm Convoy spacers?

I placed one of these between two 40T cells and it seems to work well.

Thanks JordanZHP.

Could I have the coupon please Freeme?

The coupon is in the first post right under the discounted prices

Got mine today. Thanks Freeme!

The batteries that are included in the package aren’t actually button tops. They’re flat tops with a small copper (?) Disk soldered on.not sure what type of 21700 they are. they have a dark grey wrap and say “21700hp 3.7v 3000mah 20c”. They came pretty low charge so they’re on the charger now.

i can test the lvp on this light next week with a PS at work.