ALL FREEME🍀 x 1THEDEALS Group Buy >> HOT ✌ EC01X/ EC07/ ED01/ EA01/ LT2 ✌

[tactical_grizzly]

@grzybek337

@tactical_grizzly

NS59v1 was a HUGE hit at the Texas Flashlight Club meeting tonight. It blew everything else we had (MF01S, MF01X, X50 CRI) out of the water.

Do you plan on reviewing it?

Yes

[tactical_grizzly]

LVP Update!

Neal sent me his “special batteries” which appear to be Lishen 21700 HP’s with a brass button soldered to the flat top. After more testing with those cells and more P42A’s, I’ve determined that my sample DOES have LVP and it works reliably, leaving the cells at ~2.8V after shutoff.

The thing that killed my first batch is parasitic drain after LVP shutoff. I measured cell voltage after LVP shutoff at about 2.8V, then turned the light back “on” for a little over an hour. When I checked cell voltage again, the cells had dropped by ~0.2V each!

When I did my initial runtime test, it was overnight. The light was on for an hour or so but then shut off (due to LVP, apparently) but when I checked voltage in the morning the cells were down near 1.5V! Looks like parasitic drain after LVP shutoff is the culprit.

[CollectEverything]

@tactical_grizzly

LVP Update!

Neal sent me his “special batteries” which appear to be Lishen 21700 HP’s with a brass button soldered to the flat top. After more testing with those cells and more P42A’s, I’ve determined that my sample DOES have LVP and it works reliably, leaving the cells at ~2.8V after shutoff.

The thing that killed my first batch is parasitic drain after LVP shutoff. I measured cell voltage after LVP shutoff at about 2.8V, then turned the light back “on” for a little over an hour. When I checked cell voltage again, the cells had dropped by ~0.2V each!

When I did my initial runtime test, it was overnight. The light was on for an hour or so but then shut off (due to LVP, apparently) but when I checked voltage in the morning the cells were down near 1.5V! Looks like parasitic drain after LVP shutoff is the culprit.

Wow that seems like some pretty significant parasitic drain.

[tactical_grizzly]

@CollectEverything

@tactical_grizzly

LVP Update!

Neal sent me his “special batteries” which appear to be Lishen 21700 HP’s with a brass button soldered to the flat top. After more testing with those cells and more P42A’s, I’ve determined that my sample DOES have LVP and it works reliably, leaving the cells at ~2.8V after shutoff.

The thing that killed my first batch is parasitic drain after LVP shutoff. I measured cell voltage after LVP shutoff at about 2.8V, then turned the light back “on” for a little over an hour. When I checked cell voltage again, the cells had dropped by ~0.2V each!

When I did my initial runtime test, it was overnight. The light was on for an hour or so but then shut off (due to LVP, apparently) but when I checked voltage in the morning the cells were down near 1.5V! Looks like parasitic drain after LVP shutoff is the culprit.

Wow that seems like some pretty significant parasitic drain.

Indeed. I tried measuring it and ogt 650 microamps. That’s not very high and I don’t think it should drain the cells that fast, but the voltage difference doesn’t lie.

[Sw1f7]

@tactical_grizzly

LVP Update!

Neal sent me his “special batteries” which appear to be Lishen 21700 HP’s with a brass button soldered to the flat top. After more testing with those cells and more P42A’s, I’ve determined that my sample DOES have LVP and it works reliably, leaving the cells at ~2.8V after shutoff.

The thing that killed my first batch is parasitic drain after LVP shutoff. I measured cell voltage after LVP shutoff at about 2.8V, then turned the light back “on” for a little over an hour. When I checked cell voltage again, the cells had dropped by ~0.2V each!

When I did my initial runtime test, it was overnight. The light was on for an hour or so but then shut off (due to LVP, apparently) but when I checked voltage in the morning the cells were down near 1.5V! Looks like parasitic drain after LVP shutoff is the culprit.

How do the 21700HP’s compare to the P42A’s in terms of max lumens?

[everydaysurvivalgear]

@tactical_grizzly

@CollectEverything

@tactical_grizzly

LVP Update!

Neal sent me his “special batteries” which appear to be Lishen 21700 HP’s with a brass button soldered to the flat top. After more testing with those cells and more P42A’s, I’ve determined that my sample DOES have LVP and it works reliably, leaving the cells at ~2.8V after shutoff.

The thing that killed my first batch is parasitic drain after LVP shutoff. I measured cell voltage after LVP shutoff at about 2.8V, then turned the light back “on” for a little over an hour. When I checked cell voltage again, the cells had dropped by ~0.2V each!

When I did my initial runtime test, it was overnight. The light was on for an hour or so but then shut off (due to LVP, apparently) but when I checked voltage in the morning the cells were down near 1.5V! Looks like parasitic drain after LVP shutoff is the culprit.

Wow that seems like some pretty significant parasitic drain.

Indeed. I tried measuring it and ogt 650 microamps. That’s not very high and I don’t think it should drain the cells that fast, but the voltage difference doesn’t lie.

At 2.8v the amount of energy left in the cells in very minimal so even a small current drain will make the voltage drop a fair bit.

[tactical_grizzly]

@Sw1f7

@tactical_grizzly

LVP Update!

Neal sent me his “special batteries” which appear to be Lishen 21700 HP’s with a brass button soldered to the flat top. After more testing with those cells and more P42A’s, I’ve determined that my sample DOES have LVP and it works reliably, leaving the cells at ~2.8V after shutoff.

The thing that killed my first batch is parasitic drain after LVP shutoff. I measured cell voltage after LVP shutoff at about 2.8V, then turned the light back “on” for a little over an hour. When I checked cell voltage again, the cells had dropped by ~0.2V each!

When I did my initial runtime test, it was overnight. The light was on for an hour or so but then shut off (due to LVP, apparently) but when I checked voltage in the morning the cells were down near 1.5V! Looks like parasitic drain after LVP shutoff is the culprit.

How do the 21700HP’s compare to the P42A’s in terms of max lumens?

I have not tested extensively but one quick test indicated similar max lumens. I will have more details in my full review.

[Sw1f7]

@tactical_grizzly

@Sw1f7

@tactical_grizzly

LVP Update!

Neal sent me his “special batteries” which appear to be Lishen 21700 HP’s with a brass button soldered to the flat top. After more testing with those cells and more P42A’s, I’ve determined that my sample DOES have LVP and it works reliably, leaving the cells at ~2.8V after shutoff.

The thing that killed my first batch is parasitic drain after LVP shutoff. I measured cell voltage after LVP shutoff at about 2.8V, then turned the light back “on” for a little over an hour. When I checked cell voltage again, the cells had dropped by ~0.2V each!

When I did my initial runtime test, it was overnight. The light was on for an hour or so but then shut off (due to LVP, apparently) but when I checked voltage in the morning the cells were down near 1.5V! Looks like parasitic drain after LVP shutoff is the culprit.

How do the 21700HP’s compare to the P42A’s in terms of max lumens?

I have not tested extensively but one quick test indicated similar max lumens. I will have more details in my full review.

Thanks, looking forward to your review!

[2100]

@Vodak-Yarout

SQF55 is bigger/power around x2 compare to SFQ43
I think Nightwatch was optimistic with 28.000 lumens too

Posted by pearlriver in this thread

I saw this flashlight on TB too late, about 2 weeks after it sold out there. This light is super value for those just after lumens and nothing else.

Just managed to snatch 3 pcs of LS 2170HP (3000mAh) and LS 2170LA (4000mAh) and 2 of his 4-bay 2A per bay quick chargers. Darn cheap, the batts are only 15 rmb and charger 30rmb each. Shipping usd 6 to my country (just nice 1.00kg, if it were 1.01kg i’d have to pay 0.5kg usd 3 more)
Batts are for my 2 Jinheng JKK76s.

Just for everyone’s info, NW Chaos hit like 3 seconds above 25k……but that might be due to several factors as well. eg the best of his lot of Lishen 2170HP etc.

Video inside
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z09.2.0.0.7d782e8dX0DHSj&id=671140993338&\_u=s1u0hcibdef5

[2100]

Anyway NW sells 2 types of LS 2170 HP 3000mAh. One ver is for this Chaos, the top has a brass disc soldered on. The other version is normal flat top, stock.
I got the stock version for my JKK76 coz its battery carrier already has a disc built in, so would easier to fit in (esp since i am contemplating to squeeze a few bits of rolled up aluminum foil to try to create a bit of bypass, so the springs are not gonna compress as much with those bits in, coz the light is claimed to be DD in turbo).

I do hope the ones i get from NW are indeed 7-8 mohms. Some other TB sellers’ Lishen HP cells are doing 13-16 mohms from what i see in the china TB user reviews in the item listing, while some are 7-8 mohms.
If i remember correctly, Samsung 50G is doing around 15 mohms, so…… (i use 50Gs in my Amutorch DM70 quad XHP 70.2, good for 23k thereabouts as tested on the meter)

[chooma]

Got one on the way, with cells.

Thank you Freeme

[vonroyale]

Got mine today. First impressions.

- Well made, body and knurling is perfect.

- Wow lots of lube on the threads, like enough for 5 flashlights.

- Small dent in the bezel due to sub par packaging, but you can hardly see it.

- Again due to improper packaging, the battery close to the head had its positive totally crushed in, it still works but I’m sure the contact is not great.

- The batteries were sitting at like 2.8v when I received it so yeah there is some parasitic drain. They seem to be taking a charge.

- The switch is OVERLY sensitive, very hard to do a double tap without turning the light off.

- Very bright, any complaint you could have just goes away when you hit the turbo.

[everydaysurvivalgear]

I got mine its good overall with a few quirks

• The battery tube is small, the Sofirn 21700 cells are very tight and my battery tube has a tight spot in the middle where the cells get stuck.

• Switch is soft and easy to activate once the light is on, these are the same switches used on the L6 so it should feel similar but its the design of the tail cap. Switch is to far back a new washer will fix this i think?

• My lens came with some greasy oily finger prints on it, they where hard to clean lol

• Not really a quirk its expected but it gets really hot quickly, to the point where it could be dangerous so don’t throw the light in bag unless the tail cap is undone.

[tactical_grizzly]

@everydaysurvivalgear

The battery tube is small, the Sofirn 21700 cells are very tight and my battery tube has a tight spot in the middle where the cells get stuck.

Mine too! The cells Neal sells are a super tight fit. Really satisfying, but there is that tight spot in the middle. I have to open mine from the middle of the tube to get the batteries out as a result.

@everydaysurvivalgear

Switch is soft and easy to activate once the light is on, these are the same switches used on the L6 so it should feel similar but its the design of the tail cap. Switch is to far back a new washer will fix this i think?

Is yours a reverse or forward clicky? Sounds like a forward clicky from your description. If so, I want to trade! Haha

@everydaysurvivalgear

Not really a quirk its expected but it gets really hot quickly, to the point where it could be dangerous so don’t throw the light in bag unless the tail cap is undone.

Does yours have anodized threads on the tail? Mine’s threads are all unanodized so nothing short of removing the batteries will lock it out.

[2100]

@tactical_grizzly

Does yours have anodized threads on the tail? Mine’s threads are all unanodized so nothing short of removing the batteries will lock it out.

Should be unanodized.

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z09.2.0.0.614b2e8dGujoNr&id=671140993338&\_u=21u0hcib6b54

[everydaysurvivalgear]

@tactical_grizzly

@everydaysurvivalgear

The battery tube is small, the Sofirn 21700 cells are very tight and my battery tube has a tight spot in the middle where the cells get stuck.

Mine too! The cells Neal sells are a super tight fit. Really satisfying, but there is that tight spot in the middle. I have to open mine from the middle of the tube to get the batteries out as a result.

@everydaysurvivalgear

Switch is soft and easy to activate once the light is on, these are the same switches used on the L6 so it should feel similar but its the design of the tail cap. Switch is to far back a new washer will fix this i think?

Is yours a reverse or forward clicky? Sounds like a forward clicky from your description. If so, I want to trade! Haha

@everydaysurvivalgear

Not really a quirk its expected but it gets really hot quickly, to the point where it could be dangerous so don’t throw the light in bag unless the tail cap is undone.

Does yours have anodized threads on the tail? Mine’s threads are all unanodized so nothing short of removing the batteries will lock it out.

Nah its a forward clikcy but it looks the same as the Convoy model, no anodizing on the tail threads i just undo it till the battery doesn’t make contact with the tail cap.

[everydaysurvivalgear]

Well mine is dead, kind of disappointing i only got to use it a few times maybe 3-4 times. I didn’t get a chance to take it apart when it was working so i could test the amperage. I was testing the output and it hit 24300 lumens which seems to be on par with everyone else.

You can see where the driver let the smoke out under the inductor.

I really hate builds like this there is no centering rings and now all the corners of the LEDs are frayed, i had to undo the front because the wires are to short to pull the driver out without de-soldering the wires.

Last but not least the battery tube done this sigh!

The LEDs are the 6v version.

[BlueSwordM]

Wait, it’s actually using a buck driver?!!

The inductor must be at the saturation point knowing how powerful the light is.

[Sirstinky]

Yes it’s a buck driver with a FET channel. The input is 8.4 volts fully charged so it need to be brought down to 6 volts for lower modes, which should be fully regulated. I tried taking the driver out of mine, but the wires are very short and you have to solder them from the front first.

[BlueSwordM]

See, Nightwatch has some very good hardware designers.

Anyway, I think I should contact Nightwatch