Great! Too bad Sofirn used the green ones for a while.
No, that’s by design. Momentary mode should allow blinking in morse code and other stuff and with only one button there’s no other reliable way.
It can get better (smaller steps) with a firmware modification, but not perfectly smooth.
Ah, makes sense, and in that case it’s actually a cool feature. The UI diagram should probably still indicate how to exit this mode, even if it’s physical vs electronic.
Other observations:
Btw, I’m looking at the 2021-08-02 revision of the UI map for the LT1.
As the saying goes, the biggest room in the world is the room for improvement. Fading in steps is a bit jarring, but I’ll survive. 
The floor and ceiling levels are configurable. On the LT1, the default is to allow full power because it’s not a hotrod light. This can be changed though.
About fading in steps, it’s mostly because of the power circuit having coarse resolution at a hardware level. I’ve been thinking about ways to work around that, but the only solution I’ve come up with is really complicated and would require pretty major changes to the code.
Basically, the hardware allows for 256 total steps including “off”. When the light is at level 5/255 and needs to fade to 0 over the course of 5 minutes, it’ll slowly drop to 4 then 3 then 2 then 1 then shut itself off. These steps are quite visible.
To fix it, I’ve been thinking about making it alternate between levels very quickly, like at 16 kHz. So instead of dropping from 2 to 1 all at once, it would go 22221 for a while and then 21221 for a while, then 12121, then 11211, and then just 1. And each step there would last for only a fraction of a millisecond, so it would hopefully look smooth by eye. But to make it work, it would need extremely precise, consistent timing, and a bunch of math, and some core parts of the code would need to be completely rewritten.
So… for now, the steps are still visible during low modes.
At high levels, it doesn’t matter. Dropping from 240 to 239 isn’t a visible difference. But dropping from 3 to 2 sure is.
were the green indicators in the description? the orange button is part of what makes the light great.
the momentary mode is indeed for Morse code. unscrewing is the only way i know of to reset.
I see, so that’s what it means when the UI map mentions that the factory default ceiling is 150/150. Now it makes sense. I confirmed that turbo works as expected if the ceiling is reduced. Interesting, and ultimately the default makes sense.
Thanks for that explanation. The proposed solution sounds clever. Before even trying to implement it in Anduril, has the eye’s perception of this strategy been tested?
In any case, it’s already amazing how much Anduril can do and how it spices up the LT1. Thanks for your efforts.
Can anybody help me out? I have been gone for so long that I don’t even know if I had a user name so I had to create a new one. I was here when this project started, but never bought the lantern. I am getting ready to buy one or two and the mini later. What is the current status of a 21700 version, distant future? Should I just get the current version? I am a bit confused on their Ali store because I remember the whole problem with the USB-C and want to get the latest version. I assume that is the one listed as New Anduril 2? The price is really good right now! Thanks for any help in advance.
There has been some discussions on a 4 cell 21700 version but not much more than that. If it was me I’d get the current version because it could be some time before a decision is even made on producing one.
Thanks for the reply. I decided on one plus 2 of the LT1S and a flashlight. Now I am remembering why I never order… they never have the pretty colors they show.
3*21700 in the center of a Nalgene sized, full-body diffuser with a third red channel in addition to the two tint ramping white channels. Waterproof and floats.
sounds like a fisherman’s dream.
I recently ordered a second LT1 from Sofirn which UPS promptly lost, so they sent me a brand new production light to replace it. This one is a BLF-LT1-A4 driver with the wonky flashing pad configuration, Anduril version 202108290621. The switch backlight is orange by default, and uses a blue/pink combo for charging and power bank, or solid blue while on and plugged in. It gets stuck using either blue or blue/pink while on for a little while after being unplugged.
This particular light arrived with a weird issue where the tint ramping didn’t work properly. It didn’t memorize the setting at all so it always turned on in WW, but every second turn-on it would go through a sequence where it immediately flipped to CW on the first attempt, flipped back to WW and smoothly ramped to CW on the second attempt, then worked properly on following attempts. A factory reset solved that issue and TK told me it was probably caused by incorrect values causing an overflow. Of note, 13H factory reset doesn’t work in this Anduril build, which was rather confusing since it’s included in the UI flowchart.
What is the factory reset on Anduril version 202108290621? Or is there none?
It uses the original method:
If the user lets go before the flash, the factory reset is cancelled. It strobes in increasing intensity for about 3 seconds as a warning, sort of the flashlight equivalent of “Are you sure?”. Then it goes to full power to signal that the reset happened, and it quickly fades to off.
The factory reset animation originally came from my lightsaber firmware. It did the same thing, but in that UI, instead of “factory reset”, it was called “self destruct”.
Thanks!
Hi TK,
Sorry to ask here but it seems two prototypes of Q8 pro 1616 version ans SC21 Pro 1616 version were delivered.
Do you have them now? Would you please help confirm the firmware? It seems there are bugs there.
We are going to transfer all Anduril lights into 1616 version but waiting for firmware without issues.
Please help.
Installing the new driver in an older LT1. But when screwing on the battery tube, it goes on full brightness and pressing the switch has no effect. The green switch LEDs toggle between dimmed and full on when pressing the switch. Anyone has any idea what might be causing this?
Update:
Solved. When putting it back together the CW wire ended up being squeezed and the insulation broke causing a short (direct battery connection?). Seems there’s no permanent damage… phew…
Are the switch PCBs interchangeable? The green that comes with the new A2 driver is pretty annoying, so maybe the old switch board (rev 5) can be used instead. Has anyone tried this?
Unrelated, how many different flashing pad layouts has Sofirn come up with by now? I think they’ve earned a trophe from coming up with the most variations.
i ordered a LT1 in early june from here (USA shipping):
received A2 revision. fw i believe is 2021 01 25 0621, but i'm bad at counting.
i love the light. no complaints really, but the newer amber standby led color sounds better than mine which is green.
the power bank function seems to work well. my phone even said it was rapidly charging, so i guess LT1 supports PD2? pretty cool.
my dream version of this light would have:
but much more near-term, i think it would be pretty cool to have 4x21700 support somehow.
i'd love to see a 21700 adapter.
here's a mockup of my idea (not drawn to quite to scale):
i colorized the different components for clarity.
the 21700 cells would be bottom-loaded.
i'd totally buy one to upgrade my light.
a question: i received 4x 3000 mAh 18650s with my light. they're sofirn wrapped button tops.
any idea if these cells are actually protected, or are they unprotected button tops? i want to replace these cells with some 3500 mAh button tops (sounds like i can use unprotected), but i'm wondering if i can reuse these 3000 mAh sofirn cells in a device that needs protected cells.
