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Indeed. I tried measuring it and ogt 650 microamps. Thatā€™s not very high and I donā€™t think it should drain the cells that fast, but the voltage difference doesnā€™t lie.

How do the 21700HPā€™s compare to the P42Aā€™s in terms of max lumens?

At 2.8v the amount of energy left in the cells in very minimal so even a small current drain will make the voltage drop a fair bit.

I have not tested extensively but one quick test indicated similar max lumens. I will have more details in my full review.

Thanks, looking forward to your review!

I saw this flashlight on TB too late, about 2 weeks after it sold out there. This light is super value for those just after lumens and nothing else.

Just managed to snatch 3 pcs of LS 2170HP (3000mAh) and LS 2170LA (4000mAh) and 2 of his 4-bay 2A per bay quick chargers. Darn cheap, the batts are only 15 rmb and charger 30rmb each. Shipping usd 6 to my country (just nice 1.00kg, if it were 1.01kg iā€™d have to pay 0.5kg usd 3 more)
Batts are for my 2 Jinheng JKK76s.

Just for everyoneā€™s info, NW Chaos hit like 3 seconds above 25kā€¦ā€¦but that might be due to several factors as well. eg the best of his lot of Lishen 2170HP etc.

Video inside
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z09.2.0.0.7d782e8dX0DHSj&id=671140993338&\_u=s1u0hcibdef5

Anyway NW sells 2 types of LS 2170 HP 3000mAh. One ver is for this Chaos, the top has a brass disc soldered on. The other version is normal flat top, stock.
I got the stock version for my JKK76 coz its battery carrier already has a disc built in, so would easier to fit in (esp since i am contemplating to squeeze a few bits of rolled up aluminum foil to try to create a bit of bypass, so the springs are not gonna compress as much with those bits in, coz the light is claimed to be DD in turbo).

I do hope the ones i get from NW are indeed 7-8 mohms. Some other TB sellersā€™ Lishen HP cells are doing 13-16 mohms from what i see in the china TB user reviews in the item listing, while some are 7-8 mohms.
If i remember correctly, Samsung 50G is doing around 15 mohms, soā€¦ā€¦ (i use 50Gs in my Amutorch DM70 quad XHP 70.2, good for 23k thereabouts as tested on the meter)

Got one on the way, with cells.

Thank you Freeme :disguised_face:

Got mine today. First impressions.

- Well made, body and knurling is perfect.

- Wow lots of lube on the threads, like enough for 5 flashlights.

- Small dent in the bezel due to sub par packaging, but you can hardly see it.

- Again due to improper packaging, the battery close to the head had its positive totally crushed in, it still works but Iā€™m sure the contact is not great.

- The batteries were sitting at like 2.8v when I received it so yeah there is some parasitic drain. They seem to be taking a charge.

- The switch is OVERLY sensitive, very hard to do a double tap without turning the light off.

- Very bright, any complaint you could have just goes away when you hit the turbo.

I got mine its good overall with a few quirks

  • The battery tube is small, the Sofirn 21700 cells are very tight and my battery tube has a tight spot in the middle where the cells get stuck.
  • Switch is soft and easy to activate once the light is on, these are the same switches used on the L6 so it should feel similar but its the design of the tail cap. Switch is to far back a new washer will fix this i think?
  • My lens came with some greasy oily finger prints on it, they where hard to clean lol
  • Not really a quirk its expected but it gets really hot quickly, to the point where it could be dangerous so donā€™t throw the light in bag unless the tail cap is undone.

Mine too! The cells Neal sells are a super tight fit. Really satisfying, but there is that tight spot in the middle. I have to open mine from the middle of the tube to get the batteries out as a result.

Is yours a reverse or forward clicky? Sounds like a forward clicky from your description. If so, I want to trade! Haha

Does yours have anodized threads on the tail? Mineā€™s threads are all unanodized so nothing short of removing the batteries will lock it out.

Should be unanodized.

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z09.2.0.0.614b2e8dGujoNr&id=671140993338&\_u=21u0hcib6b54

Nah its a forward clikcy but it looks the same as the Convoy model, no anodizing on the tail threads i just undo it till the battery doesnā€™t make contact with the tail cap.

Well mine is dead, kind of disappointing i only got to use it a few times maybe 3-4 times. I didnā€™t get a chance to take it apart when it was working so i could test the amperage. I was testing the output and it hit 24300 lumens which seems to be on par with everyone else.

You can see where the driver let the smoke out under the inductor.

I really hate builds like this there is no centering rings and now all the corners of the LEDs are frayed, i had to undo the front because the wires are to short to pull the driver out without de-soldering the wires.

Last but not least the battery tube done this sigh!

The LEDs are the 6v version.

Wait, itā€™s actually using a buck driver?!!

The inductor must be at the saturation point knowing how powerful the light is.

Yes itā€™s a buck driver with a FET channel. The input is 8.4 volts fully charged so it need to be brought down to 6 volts for lower modes, which should be fully regulated. I tried taking the driver out of mine, but the wires are very short and you have to solder them from the front first.

See, Nightwatch has some very good hardware designers.

Anyway, I think I should contact Nightwatch :smiley:

These are some interesting developments. Iā€™ve found most to be poorly regulated _except for Medium, which bewildered me. Knowing the driver has a FET channel and a Buck channel explains that somewhat. Iā€™m surprised that mine doesnā€™t seem to use the Buck channel for Low or ā€œMoonā€ though.

Iā€™ll be running test this weekend and that should tell more of whatā€™s going on. The driver is 20 mm and thatā€™s pretty small for a high power light (I saw 51 amps on Turbo using Neal special batteries). Thatā€™s about 300 watts!

Wowā€¦.magic smoke. I guess itā€™s pushing physics a bit too much.

I have the JKK76 SFN55.2 (different LEDs of coz) and one thing i noticed in both the lower modes and turbo against say an Amutorch DM70 with Cree 70.2s is that the chinese SFN 55.2 seems noticeably less efficient. So to get more lumens, youā€™d end up with even more heat, and we also know that as we overdrive things and push the envelope like this on a relatively light host (i think the JKK76 has nearly twice the mass), we really hit a brick wall with the law of diminishing returns. Not sure about driver efficiencies between the Amutorch and JKK76, but i guess weā€™d just have to assume that they are very similar.

I already saw that on the video on NWā€™s TB page on the sag, some sort of sagā€¦.be it heat somewhere, or battery. Comfortably 30k+ on turn on with the Lishen 21700HP but 2-3 seconds on it dropped to 25k lumens.

The saving grace is that this was 319rmb when it was still available till very recently, i think it sold out ard mid or end of Apr. JKK76 is 538rmb now. (428rmb launch price like 1-2 months ago?)

And if i remember correctly, Nighwatch packages 2pcs of LS 21700HP in it as well, so you are good to go if you ordered from TB (countries serviced by TBā€™s official forwarder CaiNiao can do thatā€¦ā€¦and yes technically able to ship out as long as you can checkout on TB platformā€¦.shhhā€¦with regards to li-ion cells. You cannot buy listings that list say 21700/18650 by themselves). With using only 1 cell, i found that the Lishen 21700HP outperformed my Samsung 40T in terms of output/sag at very high current draw on the 3-cell JKK76 during testing, check the JKK76 thread on this. Soā€¦.319rmb all in, really incredible value.

ps. sucks regarding the cell wrapping killer for some batteries too.

Just some 2 cents from a regular flashaholic end-user. :beer: