JKK76 7*SFT40 and 7*SFN55.2

Not an electrical expert here and perhaps i am missing something, but i thought the cell does not really care in this case……

Ok put it in another way……
ie in this case of the JKK76……say we are doing 25000lm and drawing 25 amps at the head’s contacts (for eg, not sure abt exact fig), bypassing or not bypassing is still 25 amps.
Coz this is not the limiting factor. The driver is the limiting factor.

For other stuff like BLF/Sofirn Q8, then yeah. I don’t have that many lights so maybe there are even better egs.

edit - oh ok ok, i think i know what you are driving at. The slightly less resistance = battery battery run time. Not what i originally thought of “better battery life” as in “cell health”. :beer: :smiley: :smiley: Ugh……for a moment i had a brain block. lol :money_mouth_face:
Anyway, i think this would be an extremely extremely small difference.

I’m just waiting for mine in the mail but I was wondering, should my Samsung 30t be good for their high amp discharge and higher wattage than the 40t

Check my above output results for the Lishen 21700HP vs the 21700LA, 3000mAh and 4000mAh respectively (claimed). Discharge amps / light output single cell of this 21700HP results mirror that of my Samsung 40T, of coz assuming that my Samsung 40T is legit. Should be, 1200 raw on my meter ceiling bounced = 14-15k lumens OTF easy. Single cell man, no joke.

Use the 40T or similar, it’s 4000mAh and should sustain longer cumulative turbo duration and perhaps high-high mode (5000lm) cumulative duration as well.

There is no gain with using 30T or Lishen 21700HP. In other lights like the 2 cell Nightwatch Chaos, yes probably……there is output gains to be had.

In fact, i think Vapcell has a “new” 20A 5000mAh cell, not sure what is the true manufacturer/model, not an expert, but if it is indeed true 20A CDR, then that’d be really good for this JKK76 use. But i remember that is really $$$ costly. The Lishen 21700LA only costed me like usd 7 for 3 and shipping weight cost is like usd 1.50 for the 3pcs. :money_mouth_face:

@loafglenn, you’ll get more output at the beginning, but less at the end.

As found out in my test and above post……I don’t think there would be more output in the beginning. Originally i was hoping that this is true (i was even hoping for it to gun close to 40k)…… :money_mouth_face: lol. Also note the last bolded line. That is very telling already, in addition tot he 21700HP vs 21700LA figures.

3pcs 50G = 2100 range.
1pc = never test.

3pcs 40T = 2300 range.
1pc = 1200 range

3pcs Lishen 21700LA = 2300 range
1pc = 1200 range

3pcs Lishen 21700HP = 2300 range
1pc = 1400 range.

Note. HP = 3000mAh, LA = 4000mAh.

Oh one more thing……you ordered the 18k lm SFT40s right. In fact you might be interested in the 50Gs or similar, it should easily be sufficient for SFT40…15A cells. The SFN 55.2s are no efficiency master from what i compared with Cree 70.2s.

edit - oh sorry, that fella is Lunaloves and not you, upon checking 1 page ago. You ordered the SFN 55.2?

It took me a while to mule over which one I wanted but I ended up ordering the stf40. I really wanted high lumens but the throw is what got me.

I’m gonna see how the build is on this and if I can finesse my wife into letting me “try” the floody sfn55s.

When I say try, I’m sure she’ll make me do a catch and release with either.

The build is decent/functional. Sofirn kinda quality, is good to use. In fact i prefer the matt finishing on my black JKK76 than Sofirn’s more glossy finish. The silver version is darn pretty also. You won’t go wrong with silver.

Yep bro…really depends on what you are after and under what conditions/environments. If you do have an illumination use for farther objects, the tighter hotspot is good and more useful, other than the high cd.
Good to know that at least in your area you’d be able to sell your lights, in my country it’s nearly impossible to do so with these “unbranded” lights unless if it is rock bottom prices, read say usd 40 for a mint JKK76 with cells + charger inclusive. If this were Acebeam, it’d move fast, no doubt.

For “pointing” fun purposes, i already have like 3 lasers and one with a special beam expander.
Also as a side topic, i always have a funny feeling that i might get into trouble for pointing at other people’s apartments. So, i have been wondering if i were to get these floody high cd “throwers” then i think legally I might have a case for proving that i wasn’t trying to point at any apartment in particular or worse cars/aircrafts. No definitely i am not that kind of an a-hole :confounded: pointing at cars or worse aircrafts, but just in case. :zipper_mouth_face:

For eg my block to my nearest block is 200 metres away. I can illuminate 2-3 whole blocks solidly with my lights, namely 2pcs JKK76, 1pc Amutorch DM70, 1pc Sofirn Q8 Pro. I mean, 4 hands, my kid and mine. :partying_face: Other scenes include my son’s school and wooded areas, 20 to 40 meters away…… that one is really WTF bright, heh.
We get into low mode, double click for turbo, 5 seconds then single click to get back into low mode. heh……
Some wierd family bonding time also, i suppose. :partying_face: Rather healthy also, these flashlight hobby walks.
In my country, there are many other much more costly hobbies/activities that others dabble in….heh.

Someone asked for beamshots, apologies i could only do white wall types comparing the spots sizes.

BLF Q8 5000k and JKK76 SFN 55.2, at - 1 stop exposure and then 0.0 stop.
Q8 is SMO, JKK76 orange peel

Q8 has a pretty well defined central hotspot, JKK76 orange peel’s edges are diffused…typical beam profile of both reflector types.

Vid posted 7 days earlier. Post first watch later……
ps it’s not me in the vid

nice torch, I just can’t quite fall in love with the UI personally

Does anyone have pictures of the driver?

I just pulled the trigger on the sfn55 3000k JKK76, from kaidoman. Really looking forward to seeing a > 20,000 lumen light with 3000k LEDs.

I have my expectations set realistically, I have modded and bought enough LEDs and Flashlights to realize the tint might not be great and probably isn't, and also it's probably not doing 30,000 lm with 3000 K LEDs. Regardless I feel like I'm in for quite the treat at $92!!

Especially after selling my MK38 Sft40 which I regret.

and I order probably $100 a month from kaidoman in LEDs as They have some great ones (hi cri xhp35 HI , 70.3 and 50.3 HI, hi cri) and they're free shipping and pretty quick shipping is never disappointed me. And they've never messed up an order. They're a great site to deal with!

Artie, I’m glad to see you finally pulled the plug and getting this light. I look forward to you taking it apart and flashing some anduril on it.

Great……it’s just for fun and “special feeling”. I hope you are not a sole purveyor of tint or CRI / R9070 or those things, coz it wouldn’t be nice / natural looking. But if you want something special + fun, this is gonna be it, just because like i mentioned above there are very few lights that are 3000K and are floody throwers, or are gonna be f*ing costly. There are, of course as you’d know it, tons of lights in the 1000 to 2000+ lumens range at 3000K. I like high CRI lights in a way but i don’t chase this route endlessly as it never gels with high output.

I measured over 20k lumens output, in fact raw numbers on the light meter would be like 2200 lux for the 3000K and 2500 lux for the 6500k version. This is a very small gap between 3000K vs 6500K, usually the difference / efficiency hit is much bigger, and it’s likely that the LEDs are all driven the same. So definitely the tint/CRI/look won’t be like your Philips or even Opple LED bulbs @ 3000K. This is pretty yellow, but no green stuff at any of the modes. It is also very workable and mimics incandescent at output levels 1 and 2 with a ceiling bounce, so it’s not without its practical uses.

ps. I measured this to be 130-140k cd range. Not a true thrower kinda territory, but it is not shabby at all. Just only like 3 years ago I and quite a few BLFers were excited with the Sofirn Q8 at 90-100k cd, even though it was just 5000 lumens.

Hello. Did someone mention low CRI?

:confounded: :confounded: :confounded:

Heh……well if one cannot or does not have the time to change/reflow 7 emitters and design/mod their own drivers, one can only look at the Manker MK38 @ 3000K 90 CRI (70.3 HI) from the VN fella, i think Vinh something. Very obvious that his market is not gonna be here in BLF….
Can’t even guess how much that one’s going to cost……
Of course there would be other +ve with that kind of a light as well, like better performance in various areas, other than the CRI solely

edit - oh….the Acebeam X50 High CRI as well, just that it is not 3000K…but it’d still do for some.

All options are not cheap. Best not to chase this route esp if can’t DIY.

” Some chips”:Jkk76 - Album on Imgur

I took apart the battery tail screws and found these mosfet chips but I think some desoldering is involved in finding the driver on the head.

Sorry if this picture don’t come through. I’m still somewhat new to the forums formating

Really? Are the ultra budget priced, high powered flashlight threads now getting spammed for CRI too? Did you hit the new Nightwatch NS59v1 thread too for not having high CRI? Or is it just because this one is 3000k and people shouldn't be able to get excited for Warm White unless it's also ultra super high R9 99CRI+? I'll contain my excitement next time.

and to further your point- I could easily mod the mk38 with 90CRI 70.3 HI LEDS, would be no problem have it done in under an hour- if I was able to spend $350 on the mk38 from manker's site and ANOTHER 7 x $13.80 = $96+ For (7) LEDs from Kaidoman.com or mouser. So... $446 for a mk38 so I can have HI CRI (and yes a boost driver i know, and it's better made) or $92 for 3000k , 25,000+ lumens without hi Cri. I think at >25,000lumens I'll be able to distinguish a stick from a snake and save myself $300+

also, I've owned the mk38, it's awesome. But it doesn't make the jkk not awesome either.

8 x $13.8 :wink: