I just got a batch of programming kits made up, and most of them are spoken for and have been shipped out. This first batch required modification of the USB to Serial adapter (addition of a Schottky diode between the Tx and Rx lines) so they’re only sold as a full kit. I have a couple of these still available to ship out if anyone is interested.
Also, parts just arrived from a redesign… instead of requiring the USB to Serial adapter to be modified, this version runs both the Tx and Rx lines to the pogo pin adapter and merges them there. This allows you to use this pogo pin adapter with pretty much any off-the shelf USB to Serial TTL adapter without any modifications (* note: if serial adapter has an Rx LED, you will likely need to physically disable that). If anyone would like these, I can send them out as just the pogo pin adapter or as a full kit with a USB to Serial adapter and Dupont cables. If you already have a serial adapter sitting around, this is a cheap/easy way to do the flashing.
For those who ordered from “SOFIRNLIGHT.COM”: did the status of your order changed to “shipped” (or something similar)?
Mine still shows “awaiting shipment”. I contacted Barry and Sofirn via PM and didn’t get any replies…
I know this week they are on holiday, but mine was ordered on the 14th and didn’t move since then…I’m starting to get upset
Just wanted to let people know that Sofirn and Barry have replied to me meanwhile, concerning my order.
They are expecting drivers and updating firmware, so that is what caused delay.
Sofirn mentioned the end of the month to eventually have them.
I will wait for them to become available, as will not cancel my order. I just wanted to know what would be the reason, and now I know
Gchart you mentioned that shipping to Europe is expensive, should I make some programing adapters for Europeans ? (or others actually, an international 20g enveloppe is 1.65€)
Gchart you mentioned that shipping to Europe is expensive, should I make some programing adapters for Europeans ? (or others actually, an international 20g enveloppe is 1.65€)
That’d be great, I’d buy one.
It’s relatively easy to hack something like this together (e.g. hot gluing pogo and modding a FTDI board), but it’s an entire different thing if it’s properly done and nice and tidy like gchart’s adapter. Certainly more durable. For small things like this, shipping costs (+ customs!!!!) are often a showstopper.
Gchart you mentioned that shipping to Europe is expensive, should I make some programing adapters for Europeans ? (or others actually, an international 20g enveloppe is 1.65€)
Even if I don’t know how to programme, I could learn and a cable would be handy in that case !
I’d buy one from you if you decide to make them. And thanks in advance for the proposal!
Gchart you mentioned that shipping to Europe is expensive, should I make some programing adapters for Europeans ? (or others actually, an international 20g enveloppe is 1.65€)
Ok, I already ordered 15 boards and I’ll order some other necessary parts, I already have a few micro USB to TTL boards, maybe I should get some USB-C ones next.
You mentioned that heartshrink is optional, but in any case some insulation isn’t since touching the RX connection can make the programming fail in my experience.
Got your adapter today gchart. Thanks for the quick work. Now to learn the intricacies of ???? Buried somewhere within this thread is the necessary software and some instructions on how to use it. Would you mind linking to that post in the OP to help us all out? Thanks.
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Please illuminate responsibly
Part time fragmented conciousness technician
I guess I need to publish a straight-forward set of instructions. I haven’t done exactly that yet, but I do have a ton of info here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/66272
Basically, you need to…
Make sure you have python3 installed on your computer
Install “pip” for python3 (it may already be installed if you have python3)
Use pymcuprog on the command line to flash the hex file. I recommend doing an erase before writing the new hex file. I have sample commands in the post I linked above.
As an alternative to #5, instead of trying to find your serial port and typing out your own commands, I have a python script here that you can use to issue a simple command like “flash-1616.py anduril.hex” to help do the dirty work.
Got your adapter today gchart. Thanks for the quick work. Now to learn the intricacies of ???? Buried somewhere within this thread is the necessary software and some instructions on how to use it. Would you mind linking to that post in the OP to help us all out? Thanks.
I recently updated the firmware on mine and I posted a tutorial on reddit
Much thanks to gchart and zumlin! Once I got windows to install python properly, it all just worked! gchart, the little python script works very well also.
Also, just get gchart’s pogo adapter with the resistor and diode on board, it is a bargain!
What other lights flash this way, is this the first?
Much thanks to gchart and zumlin! Once I got windows to install python properly, it all just worked! gchart, the little python script works very well also.
Also, just get gchart’s pogo adapter with the resistor and diode on board, it is a bargain!
What other lights flash this way, is this the first?
This is the first light with this programming format. Sofirn (and maybe Wurkkos?) seem interest on using it on more lights, so I think we’ll probably be seeing more of it soon-ish.
So is the flash-to-off quirk a widespread issue or not? I have yet to see it on mine and I’ve been using it nearly every evening since I got it.
I have another niggle….this light is a PITA for tail standing. I was commenting in someone else’s thread (tactical grizzly maybe) where they said it tail stands well. I find that the surface needs to be flat-flat and pretty sturdy or else this light is liable to topple over. I sat it on an old pc box and it kept falling over….got out an angle gauge and it was about 4.5°. lol. There’s only something like 30% of the circumference that is a footprint for contact – they took way too much material away. If they come out with a green magnetic cap I’ll pick that up. For now, I put the Convoy T2 16mm ring magnet back in it…sticks up a little above the ears so it’s at risk for fracture but it helps the light tail stand properly.
Other than that I like this light a lot. Picked up some brass tubing 9.5mm x 1mm and will slice off some button washers soon.
So is the flash-to-off quirk a widespread issue or not? I have yet to see it on mine and I’ve been using it nearly every evening since I got it.
Try turning it off from level 2 out of 7, stepped ramp, advanced mode with a 14500 inside. The stepping down before off bug was reproducible that way, but I have only seen the flash once or twice before I fixed it with a firmware update.
Gchart you mentioned that shipping to Europe is expensive, should I make some programing adapters for Europeans ? (or others actually, an international 20g enveloppe is 1.65€)
So is the flash-to-off quirk a widespread issue or not? I have yet to see it on mine and I’ve been using it nearly every evening since I got it.
Try turning it off from level 2 out of 7, stepped ramp, advanced mode with a 14500 inside. The stepping down before off bug was reproducible that way, but I have only seen the flash once or twice before I fixed it with a firmware update.
Ah, a 14500 is needed to reproduce it? That’s why I don’t see it.
Does anyone know when the SP10 Pro green version will be available again? I missed the first batch.
It also appears that Aliexpress.com and Sofirnlight.com are currently not selling the pro version in any color.
Probably June. I too am waiting.
What’s the best way to modify the firmware to access strobe while on? I have no idea how to modify the code and create a hex file
First you should think about which button combination should enable strobe.
For those interested in programming adapters…
I just got a batch of programming kits made up, and most of them are spoken for and have been shipped out. This first batch required modification of the USB to Serial adapter (addition of a Schottky diode between the Tx and Rx lines) so they’re only sold as a full kit. I have a couple of these still available to ship out if anyone is interested.
Also, parts just arrived from a redesign… instead of requiring the USB to Serial adapter to be modified, this version runs both the Tx and Rx lines to the pogo pin adapter and merges them there. This allows you to use this pogo pin adapter with pretty much any off-the shelf USB to Serial TTL adapter without any modifications (* note: if serial adapter has an Rx LED, you will likely need to physically disable that). If anyone would like these, I can send them out as just the pogo pin adapter or as a full kit with a USB to Serial adapter and Dupont cables. If you already have a serial adapter sitting around, this is a cheap/easy way to do the flashing.
Looks very well made Gchart
Nicely done gchart!
What size are the pogo pins? I’ve been looking at buying some, but turns out there’s a gazilion sizes..
P50-B1 (~0.68 diameter)
PS – the page on Oshpark has the BOM
Big thank you! It’s useful to see your photo and know the actual type. Puts it better into perspective.
Just wanted to let people know that Sofirn and Barry have replied to me meanwhile, concerning my order.
They are expecting drivers and updating firmware, so that is what caused delay.
Sofirn mentioned the end of the month to eventually have them.
I will wait for them to become available, as will not cancel my order. I just wanted to know what would be the reason, and now I know
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection /// YouTube Channel
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2 / 3
Gchart you mentioned that shipping to Europe is expensive, should I make some programing adapters for Europeans ? (or others actually, an international 20g enveloppe is 1.65€)
That’d be great, I’d buy one.
It’s relatively easy to hack something like this together (e.g. hot gluing pogo and modding a FTDI board), but it’s an entire different thing if it’s properly done and nice and tidy like gchart’s adapter. Certainly more durable. For small things like this, shipping costs (+ customs!!!!) are often a showstopper.
Even if I don’t know how to programme, I could learn and a cable would be handy in that case !
I’d buy one from you if you decide to make them. And thanks in advance for the proposal!
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection /// YouTube Channel
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2 / 3
Yes, please.
Smile, you cannot kill them all.
Ok, I already ordered 15 boards and I’ll order some other necessary parts, I already have a few micro USB to TTL boards, maybe I should get some USB-C ones next.
You mentioned that heartshrink is optional, but in any case some insulation isn’t since touching the RX connection can make the programming fail in my experience.GCHart, are there any POGO Pin adapters left for flashing this driver?
Thank you!
[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749
Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180
My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100
The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561
5C from on. I accidentally entered momentary mode and had to google to get rid of it.
I would also like to delete 5c from off since I don’t want to accidentally enter momentary mode ever again. I have no use for it.
Got your adapter today gchart. Thanks for the quick work. Now to learn the intricacies of ???? Buried somewhere within this thread is the necessary software and some instructions on how to use it. Would you mind linking to that post in the OP to help us all out? Thanks.
Please illuminate responsibly
Part time fragmented conciousness technician
UV triple using Sofirn C8F
395nm High Power LED in Sofirn SC31b
I guess I need to publish a straight-forward set of instructions. I haven’t done exactly that yet, but I do have a ton of info here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/66272
Basically, you need to…
I recently updated the firmware on mine and I posted a tutorial on reddit
The instructions are for Windows only though.
How can I add a line for 5C to activate strobe? I believe 5C while on currently doesn’t have a function
How can I remove the mode for momentary on while off?
Much thanks to gchart and zumlin! Once I got windows to install python properly, it all just worked! gchart, the little python script works very well also.
Also, just get gchart’s pogo adapter with the resistor and diode on board, it is a bargain!
What other lights flash this way, is this the first?
EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)
I haven’t tested it but I believe you can do it as follows:
Take lines 254 to 265 from off-mode.c:
// click, click, long-click: strobe mode #ifdef USE_STROBE_STATE else if (event EV_click3_hold) { set_state(strobe_state, 0); return MISCHIEF_MANAGED; } #elif defined(USE_BORING_STROBE_STATE) else if (event EV_click3_hold) { set_state(boring_strobe_state, 0); return MISCHIEF_MANAGED; } #endifReplace EV_click3_hold with EV_5clicks
Then stick those lines of code into ramp-mode.c (line 160 might be a good place to put it)
Remove lines 266-273 from off-mode.c
#ifdef USE_MOMENTARY_MODE // 5 clicks: momentary mode else if (event == EV_5clicks) { blink_once(); set_state(momentary_state, 0); return MISCHIEF_MANAGED; } #endifThanks for the clear instructions. That should get me going.
I Hope we can use the programmer in the future. Of course that will depend on the drivers having programming pads.
Please illuminate responsibly
Part time fragmented conciousness technician
UV triple using Sofirn C8F
395nm High Power LED in Sofirn SC31b
Wurkkos doesn’t dilly dally. They get new concept lights produced!
So is the flash-to-off quirk a widespread issue or not? I have yet to see it on mine and I’ve been using it nearly every evening since I got it.
I have another niggle….this light is a PITA for tail standing. I was commenting in someone else’s thread (tactical grizzly maybe) where they said it tail stands well. I find that the surface needs to be flat-flat and pretty sturdy or else this light is liable to topple over. I sat it on an old pc box and it kept falling over….got out an angle gauge and it was about 4.5°. lol. There’s only something like 30% of the circumference that is a footprint for contact – they took way too much material away. If they come out with a green magnetic cap I’ll pick that up. For now, I put the Convoy T2 16mm ring magnet back in it…sticks up a little above the ears so it’s at risk for fracture but it helps the light tail stand properly.
Other than that I like this light a lot. Picked up some brass tubing 9.5mm x 1mm and will slice off some button washers soon.
Try turning it off from level 2 out of 7, stepped ramp, advanced mode with a 14500 inside. The stepping down before off bug was reproducible that way, but I have only seen the flash once or twice before I fixed it with a firmware update.
Nice, I want one..are you ready?
Flashlight addicted
Ah, a 14500 is needed to reproduce it? That’s why I don’t see it.
Smile, you cannot kill them all.
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