【convoy】M21G XHP70.3 HI 2*21700 flashlight available

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Simon Mao
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LucasRunner wrote:
Simon, are there any plans to make the S21D’s host available in other anodization colors? just asking because it would be a nice touch as it will be made available in a variety of CCT’s. A black 4500K, silver 3500K and an orange 2700/3000K… Just to get an idea
But not sure there’s demand for such, don’t know if the S21D is a big selling light enough to justify the extra options, im just ruminating here
Simon Mao wrote:
SoundOleg wrote:
Simon, when is the S21C on sale?

Maybe i will install 3* XPL HD for S21C for high brightness

Wait a minute, S21 “C” ? I didn’t know that was coming… What’s that going to be? a 21700 triple?

yes, triple S21C

S21D not big selling ,so no plan to produce other colors ,sorry

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SKV89 wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
i gave up 7x XHP70.2 ,Regarding the charging interface, I have to provide a 20V adapter, which will increase the cost a lot. instead ,i plan to design 13* SST40/SFT40/519A , 80A FET+constant driver is in design now ,

13* sounds fantastic. However, do you think you can do buck or boost driver instead? They are so much more efficient.

FET + constant current driver

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2022/5/16
M21B B35AM high CRI in stock now
M21B B35AM
M21B B35AM with battery

driver output current 2.4A,
no smoke now

Correllux
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SKV89 wrote:
Correllux wrote:
Simon, how do you feel about the Hopoocolor unit you have? Any complaints or shortcomings? Would you buy it again?

I’ve been considering buying one. I think you have the 350C + software package, correct? Is the software essential?

I also have the Hopocolor and it works great. Measurements are consistent with my Sekonic C-800-U but loads and measures MUCH faster! However, I continue to use the Sekonic because Hopocolor is missing RF and RG measurements. Most people don’t care about those parameters though.

I’m still trying to decide. Did you buy from their aliexpress official store? They have like eight hundred listings on there and it’s hard to tell what is what. lol. Did you get the software?

I looked at the Sekonic offerings…can’t recall details now but it seemed like the Hopoocolor had more bang for the buck. They do have a model that has the TM30 with Rf and Rg (their -S and -SF models, “flagship”) which I’m considering because they add flicker and have a wider nm range from 350 – 900, but I’m not sure if those are worth the bump in price to me. The lower UV range would be fun for me but I don’t know how practical it would be. Biggest hesitation is buying something like this from China in case there are problems, but the prices for the models available on amazon are way high.

Here’s that model: https://www.hopoocolor.com/product/detail/spectrum-meter.html

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Do you specifically need the portability of these handled spectrophotometers ? A lot of us here use x-rite spectrophotometers which are less expensive (especially second hand), but need to be used either with a PC or an android phone (+100USD for the phone app, making it more portable).

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thefreeman wrote:
Do you specifically need the portability of these handled spectrophotometers ? A lot of us here use x-rite spectrophotometers which are less expensive (especially second hand), but need to be used either with a PC or an android phone (+100USD for the phone app, making it more portable).

Actually kind of yes since it will be for hobby as well as a little bit of use at work. I hadn’t heard of x-rite but just brought up their site and will browse their stuff later. Thank you! This is mostly a fun purchase, so trying to keep the cost lower but still want some reasonable accuracy and greater functionality than what the little hunk of junk Opple offers (it’d be great if Opple brought out something better but I really think their product is an afterthought, really just aimed at a narrow open-space room lighting kind of thing, which it does ok at for the most part).

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A thread with some info about these : https://budgetlightforum.com/node/45051
I’ll try to make a more comprehensive thread when I find the time.

LucasRunner
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Wow, this is awesome.. i had no idea that was coming. I thought the multi emitter 21700 light that was coming was the S21D itself.

Now I will certainly get stuck between both…

SoundOleg
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Simon, have you tried assembling an S16 flashlight with a B35AM LED? Are there artifacts with a mirror reflector?

SKV89
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Correllux wrote:
SKV89 wrote:
Correllux wrote:
Simon, how do you feel about the Hopoocolor unit you have? Any complaints or shortcomings? Would you buy it again?

I’ve been considering buying one. I think you have the 350C + software package, correct? Is the software essential?

I also have the Hopocolor and it works great. Measurements are consistent with my Sekonic C-800-U but loads and measures MUCH faster! However, I continue to use the Sekonic because Hopocolor is missing RF and RG measurements. Most people don’t care about those parameters though.

I’m still trying to decide. Did you buy from their aliexpress official store? They have like eight hundred listings on there and it’s hard to tell what is what. lol. Did you get the software?

I looked at the Sekonic offerings…can’t recall details now but it seemed like the Hopoocolor had more bang for the buck. They do have a model that has the TM30 with Rf and Rg (their -S and -SF models, “flagship”) which I’m considering because they add flicker and have a wider nm range from 350 – 900, but I’m not sure if those are worth the bump in price to me. The lower UV range would be fun for me but I don’t know how practical it would be. Biggest hesitation is buying something like this from China in case there are problems, but the prices for the models available on amazon are way high.

Here’s that model: https://www.hopoocolor.com/product/detail/spectrum-meter.html

I bought the OHSP250UV version. But from what I remember at the core, these units are all the same. They charge a high premium for extra features and parameters like UV. The base model Hopocolor is a real bang for the buck but once you want more features, they get real expensive.

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After swapping in the metal switch (blue illumination) on my S21D (219a) and performing the recommended spring bypass I’m getting some strange behavior on turbo with a freshly charged cell (4.14v). 35% performs as expected, but going to turbo results in a significant reduction in brightness and the driver makes an audible buzzing sound. This is the second time I’ve recharged the battery after swapping the button and both times I’ve experienced this behavior. I will try swapping in the switch to see if it resolves the issue.

Update: my spring bypass had broken somehow. Swapping the original switch board back in returned the light to its expected behavior. I will repair the spring bypass and provide an additional update, but for now the metal switch with non-illuminated switch seems to be working correctly.

Update 2: attempting the bypass again did not resolve the issue. For now I will use the metal button with the original switch (not bypassed). Won’t look as nice but at least it won’t have the parasitic drain.

tactical_grizzly
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Tatteredmidnight wrote:
After swapping in the metal switch (blue illumination) on my S21D (219a) and performing the recommended spring bypass I’m getting some strange behavior on turbo with a freshly charged cell (4.14v). 35% performs as expected, but going to turbo results in a significant reduction in brightness and the driver makes an audible buzzing sound. This is the second time I’ve recharged the battery after swapping the button and both times I’ve experienced this behavior. I will try swapping in the switch to see if it resolves the issue.

Update: my spring bypass had broken somehow. Swapping the original switch board back in returned the light to its expected behavior. I will repair the spring bypass and provide an additional update, but for now the metal switch with non-illuminated switch seems to be working correctly.

Update 2: attempting the bypass again did not resolve the issue. For now I will use the metal button with the original switch (not bypassed). Won’t look as nice but at least it won’t have the parasitic drain.

The lighted switches on 20mm boards (the ones that fit S21D) do not require a spring bypass. They should come with the same spring included on the stock switch.

I’ve accidentally melted a couple switches before when doing soldering work on a spring. Perhaps that’s what happened? The switches are the same so you should be able to remove the switch from the stock tail PCB and solder it onto your lighted board.

Correllux
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thefreeman wrote:
A thread with some info about these : https://budgetlightforum.com/node/45051 I’ll try to make a more comprehensive thread when I find the time.

Gosh, I do vaguely remember that thread. Sure wish maukka would return…hope he’s doing alright. Looking at the X-rite products I think I’ll pass on those and go with the more comprehensive Hopoocolor type units. Right now those are looking like the winner. The Everfine products Simon mentioned look very nice, but way higher pricing, from what I can see. Thanks for sharing that thread.

SKV89 wrote:
I bought the OHSP250UV version. But from what I remember at the core, these units are all the same. They charge a high premium for extra features and parameters like UV. The base model Hopocolor is a real bang for the buck but once you want more features, they get real expensive.

Expensive condiments on a sandwich. lol. I’ll have to mull this over and will probably try to email them (or message on ali) to make sure I’m selecting what I want. Really, the amount of listings on their ali store is just insane to sift through.

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Simon Mao wrote:
2022/5/16
M21B B35AM high CRI in stock now

Woohoo Party

Thank you Simon. Order incoming!

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tactical_grizzly wrote:

The lighted switches on 20mm boards (the ones that fit S21D) do not require a spring bypass. They should come with the same spring included on the stock switch.

I’ve accidentally melted a couple switches before when doing soldering work on a spring. Perhaps that’s what happened? The switches are the same so you should be able to remove the switch from the stock tail PCB and solder it onto your lighted board.

Good to know. It’s definitely possible, even likely, that I got the switch too hot during soldering, I’m not a very good solderer. I think the sane thing to do is to order another switch so I don’t melt my only remaining one and end up with a flashlight I can’t use. Simon’s accessories are very reasonably priced. Thanks for the reply, and for all the great reviews, I enjoy them thoroughly.

Simon Mao
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SoundOleg wrote:
Simon, have you tried assembling an S16 flashlight with a B35AM LED? Are there artifacts with a mirror reflector?

OP reflector for S16 is in production

Simon Mao
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Tatteredmidnight wrote:
After swapping in the metal switch (blue illumination) on my S21D (219a) and performing the recommended spring bypass I’m getting some strange behavior on turbo with a freshly charged cell (4.14v). 35% performs as expected, but going to turbo results in a significant reduction in brightness and the driver makes an audible buzzing sound. This is the second time I’ve recharged the battery after swapping the button and both times I’ve experienced this behavior. I will try swapping in the switch to see if it resolves the issue.

Update: my spring bypass had broken somehow. Swapping the original switch board back in returned the light to its expected behavior. I will repair the spring bypass and provide an additional update, but for now the metal switch with non-illuminated switch seems to be working correctly.

Update 2: attempting the bypass again did not resolve the issue. For now I will use the metal button with the original switch (not bypassed). Won’t look as nice but at least it won’t have the parasitic drain.

It may be because the VF value of multiple LEDs is low and the driver is not compatible. This is just my guess. I am sending the driver to the manufacturer to find out the reason.
Pls PM your aliexpress ID ,i will send one new driver to you when it’s fixed

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Simon Mao wrote:
Tatteredmidnight wrote:
After swapping in the metal switch (blue illumination) on my S21D (219a) and performing the recommended spring bypass I’m getting some strange behavior on turbo with a freshly charged cell (4.14v). 35% performs as expected, but going to turbo results in a significant reduction in brightness and the driver makes an audible buzzing sound. This is the second time I’ve recharged the battery after swapping the button and both times I’ve experienced this behavior. I will try swapping in the switch to see if it resolves the issue.

Update: my spring bypass had broken somehow. Swapping the original switch board back in returned the light to its expected behavior. I will repair the spring bypass and provide an additional update, but for now the metal switch with non-illuminated switch seems to be working correctly.

Update 2: attempting the bypass again did not resolve the issue. For now I will use the metal button with the original switch (not bypassed). Won’t look as nice but at least it won’t have the parasitic drain.

It may be because the VF value of multiple LEDs is low and the driver is not compatible. This is just my guess. I am sending the driver to the manufacturer to find out the reason.
Pls PM your aliexpress ID ,i will send one new driver to you when it’s fixed

I have just ordered this exact same light today. Should I be worried about this possible issue?

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Will Simon make 4×18a or 3×21a with 3*SBT90.2 ?

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Hi, you can read my Convoy 3×21A review here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/81677
It was fun testing it – very bright with excellent throw!
But it is soo heavy…

If you struggle choosing your perfect headlamp, check my headlamp guide, I compared 15 most popular headlamps there: CLICK

Tatteredmidnight
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Simon Mao wrote:
It may be because the VF value of multiple LEDs is low and the driver is not compatible. This is just my guess. I am sending the driver to the manufacturer to find out the reason. Pls PM your aliexpress ID ,i will send one new driver to you when it’s fixed

Simon,
Thank you so much, this level of customer service is really outstanding. I may purchase a second switch to test in the mean time.

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Kakapo wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
Tatteredmidnight wrote:
After swapping in the metal switch (blue illumination) on my S21D (219a) and performing the recommended spring bypass I’m getting some strange behavior on turbo with a freshly charged cell (4.14v). 35% performs as expected, but going to turbo results in a significant reduction in brightness and the driver makes an audible buzzing sound. This is the second time I’ve recharged the battery after swapping the button and both times I’ve experienced this behavior. I will try swapping in the switch to see if it resolves the issue.

Update: my spring bypass had broken somehow. Swapping the original switch board back in returned the light to its expected behavior. I will repair the spring bypass and provide an additional update, but for now the metal switch with non-illuminated switch seems to be working correctly.

Update 2: attempting the bypass again did not resolve the issue. For now I will use the metal button with the original switch (not bypassed). Won’t look as nice but at least it won’t have the parasitic drain.

It may be because the VF value of multiple LEDs is low and the driver is not compatible. This is just my guess. I am sending the driver to the manufacturer to find out the reason.
Pls PM your aliexpress ID ,i will send one new driver to you when it’s fixed

I have just ordered this exact same light today. Should I be worried about this possible issue?

pls send me the order number via PM, i will check

Simon Mao
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4×18a wrote:
Will Simon make 4×18a or 3×21a with 3*SBT90.2 ?

i will produce it when the 80A driver is available

Pip
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Simon Mao wrote:
Discharger wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
Verodin wrote:
Can they be turned on without battery, only connected to USB?
only run at around 20-40% brightness

Simon, could you please run the GT-FC40 M21F without a battery inside to see how many milliamperes it pulls from the USB C charging cable at the maximum achievable brightness? Please use a good 2A USB charger and a good (rated at 2A or above) USB C cable!

Thank you!

Sorry, the previous data is just my estimation, I just tested it, my device shows 5V 0.26A output, and the brightness is also very low.

I know this is from a while back but I built a battery sized tube with a 2200uf capacitor in it to run in place of the battery. I was able to run at almost 2 Amps on the USB with the capacitor in place of the battery.

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Next reviewed is posted, this time M21D XHP70.2
I got warm tint, 4000K and it is great. I like it when walking in the forest
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/81682

If you struggle choosing your perfect headlamp, check my headlamp guide, I compared 15 most popular headlamps there: CLICK

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Are you considering producing a driver where 100% is using a FET in direct drive?

Something like a 8×7135 + FET Turbo

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No no no.

I want buck+FET.

Not linear+FET.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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Simon Mao wrote:
4×18a wrote:
Will Simon make 4×18a or 3×21a with 3*SBT90.2 ?

i will produce it when the 80A driver is available

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Correllux wrote:
SKV89 wrote:
Correllux wrote:
Simon, how do you feel about the Hopoocolor unit you have? Any complaints or shortcomings? Would you buy it again?

I’ve been considering buying one. I think you have the 350C + software package, correct? Is the software essential?

I also have the Hopocolor and it works great. Measurements are consistent with my Sekonic C-800-U but loads and measures MUCH faster! However, I continue to use the Sekonic because Hopocolor is missing RF and RG measurements. Most people don’t care about those parameters though.

I’m still trying to decide. Did you buy from their aliexpress official store? They have like eight hundred listings on there and it’s hard to tell what is what. lol. Did you get the software?

I looked at the Sekonic offerings…can’t recall details now but it seemed like the Hopoocolor had more bang for the buck. They do have a model that has the TM30 with Rf and Rg (their -S and -SF models, “flagship”) which I’m considering because they add flicker and have a wider nm range from 350 – 900, but I’m not sure if those are worth the bump in price to me. The lower UV range would be fun for me but I don’t know how practical it would be. Biggest hesitation is buying something like this from China in case there are problems, but the prices for the models available on amazon are way high.

Here’s that model: https://www.hopoocolor.com/product/detail/spectrum-meter.html

I have OHSP350C (the basic model without software). It does not give TM-30 data on screen, but it is trivial to export the raw spectra to a PC and import to Color Calculator. You can then generate full TM-30 reports.

Unless you need the expanded spectrum range or TM-30 data on-device, I’d recommend going with the base model since it is significantly less expensive than the other options.

Correllux
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Rayoui wrote:
Correllux wrote:
SKV89 wrote:
Correllux wrote:
Simon, how do you feel about the Hopoocolor unit you have? Any complaints or shortcomings? Would you buy it again?

I’ve been considering buying one. I think you have the 350C + software package, correct? Is the software essential?

I also have the Hopocolor and it works great. Measurements are consistent with my Sekonic C-800-U but loads and measures MUCH faster! However, I continue to use the Sekonic because Hopocolor is missing RF and RG measurements. Most people don’t care about those parameters though.

I’m still trying to decide. Did you buy from their aliexpress official store? They have like eight hundred listings on there and it’s hard to tell what is what. lol. Did you get the software?

I looked at the Sekonic offerings…can’t recall details now but it seemed like the Hopoocolor had more bang for the buck. They do have a model that has the TM30 with Rf and Rg (their -S and -SF models, “flagship”) which I’m considering because they add flicker and have a wider nm range from 350 – 900, but I’m not sure if those are worth the bump in price to me. The lower UV range would be fun for me but I don’t know how practical it would be. Biggest hesitation is buying something like this from China in case there are problems, but the prices for the models available on amazon are way high.

Here’s that model: https://www.hopoocolor.com/product/detail/spectrum-meter.html

I have OHSP350C (the basic model without software). It does not give TM-30 data on screen, but it is trivial to export the raw spectra to a PC and import to Color Calculator. You can then generate full TM-30 reports.

Unless you need the expanded spectrum range or TM-30 data on-device, I’d recommend going with the base model since it is significantly less expensive than the other options.

Oh, awesome. So as the lighting professional that you are, any complaints or shortcomings? Those two features aren’t super important to me but the flicker is, a little bit. This will see double duty as hobby and at work (and not a whole lot for either one). Flicker would be nice but I could probably get them to foot the bill for something, maybe subsidize a small portion of this purchase.

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