Yep, according to the vid in the tb nightwatch lisuting, initial 1st second 9k lumens/100g of metal, no joke, after which it slidesā¦8k, 7k. Look at the above table, sbt90 153 watts gives 54 lumens/watt, chinese 70 led is lower efficiency 48 lumens/watt at just 126 watts which is a lower power. Power / 100g is gonna be worse than a cree/luminus light.
Something else gotta compensate for that or else just take the big hit face on.
Interested
Nice review. Still working on mine! Have 5 other lights to test currently! Stand by for the Wuben A1 up next.
Interested 
Interested. Does the code not work anymore? I'm not getting $67.47
Great username. I love it.
:D
My Light after less than 1 month flashed and started smoking from both sides, emitter end and battery end, 2 LEDs are burned. light doesnāt work.
Such an amazing light to use. I just hope I can get a replacement.
Thanks for the review.
On TB it is advertised as 30k lumens, which is ok since their integrating sphere + meter does show nearly 30k at turn on and dropped to just below 25k @ 3 seconds.
So i guess we need to bear this in mind when comparing numbers between the few camps. Just take a large part of it as the OTF lumens vs emitter lumens thingy as well. Maybe 15%? hit?
But in real life usages, that is already more than fine enough, already more than sufficient output for the mass of the host. Law of diminishing returns, even for few seconds hotrod usages.
Quote :
How does it compare to the official specs? 22,800lm is lower than the claimed 28,000lm, but not so much lower that youāll actually notice. That 28,000lm number could be ātheoreticalā lumens (the output before losses from the optic/reflector & lens). Itās still very bright. Candela of 98,500cd is similarly falling short of the claimed 130,000cd. With that said, itās still blistering performance.
Whoops second report of magic smoke.
If i am not terribly wrong from what i read on TB, it is directly driven on Turbo.
Thatās the āfunā with these budget lights, youād never know what you are getting after 1-10 weeks of usage. To be far, more branded lights also suffer the same fate sometimes, maybe a little less common.
My first DD light was the DRY triple xm-l driven with 3 18650s around 1 decade ago. Canāt remember how i measured it but i deduced each emitter/cell was doing around 4+ amps range, with good unprotected cells of course (the PCB itself has resistance). During that time there were very few high amps/high drain cells, if any. And the few of us here then in BLF was afraid of the same magic smoke. But still, compared to todayās specs, thatās nothing, be it host mass, heat or the electronics. lol 
My advice to other usersā¦ā¦ take it easy on the turbo mode. Donāt even rely on the 30 seconds turbo timer. And donāt spam turbo, not even 10 seconds, when the light feels like > 45 deg. Not for the LEDs, but more of for the electronics.
Also, i have this feeling that even at 2000-4000 lumens average usage and the light is 40-50 deg range and heat soaked, do not even attempt to go into Turbo. This feeling is from my experience from other budgetlight previously.
Run it under some dripping water for 15 seconds, itād help heaps. If you are in winter conditions then thatās great, but itās the tropics here.
tldr - take it easy, just a hobby/fun light.
Whatās āTBā?
I believe the rule of thumb is a 20% loss from emitter to OTF due to the reflector or optic and the lens. Itās good to keep in mind, particularly buying from makers who are less likely to do actual lumen measurements. The big brands, like Olight or Streamlight for example, will usually do actual OTF lumen measurements. Smaller makers, like Convoy for example, will just do a calculation based on LED testing data of how much brightness the LED should be producing at the given drive current, then they will list that as the lumen specification. There is no substitute for real OTF lumen measurements but theoretical output is better than nothing.
TB = Taobao.
Yeah i have the same āissueā with the JKK76 from Jinheng. I put quotes coz i already know those numbers need to be verified as so itās not an issue esp for the price, it is what it is, and there is a good chance that i gotta deduct as much as 30%, so do not have any high expectations before getting the light.
In the end i measured, at best, 26-27k OTF lumens range, and maybe 24-25k OTF at worst. Itās not the cells also as i tried with 40T, Lishen 2170HP and 2170LAā¦for eg 1 pc 2170HP gives me 1400 raw value on the meter while 40T gives 1200 and 3pcs 2170HP gives me 2500 and so does 40T and 2170LA which gave 2500), itās the driver (itās not DD on turbo).
But of coz then again, itās just a ceiling bounce (not even lumen tube) vs quite well known/measured lights like BLF Q8/Sofirn Q8, so i cannot say that my measurement is anywhere accurate as well.
But that is fine, coz it is indeed running very hot in my book already, despite the 50% higher mass than this NW Chaos, the JKK76 is 500g empty, 700g with cells. And my expectation is already just 1 single less than 30s turbo burst and thatās itā¦.not high at all. The emitter efficiencies is in the same ballpark basically.
I was originally expecting 35k to 40k OTF range, coz i thought the JKK76 was DD. But i donāt think that is feasible at all, too much heat (due to the efficiencies involved, this aint Cree) even if the cells can support 1 or 2 bursts.
test
My review light has a slightly burned LED after only about 7 hours of use, mostly runtimes. The price you pay for extreme output in a small host. You can only push physics so far within certain limits. 20 mm driver pushing almost 300 watts with only 350 grams of thermal mass is asking A LOT.
Interested for stainless bezel
Looks like the aluminum bezel is out of stock. Any idea when they will be in stock again? Thanks
There seems to be version 2 now with SFQ60.3 leds.
Are there any reviews for this v1 or v2?