That would be really nice. Actually a different switch setup altogether, but if space isn’t an insurmountable concern then adding the light would be great and bring it in line with most other Anduril lights. I don’t know if it was a practical consideration or just trying to keep the price of the light at a certain point. Just a few small improvements/fixes would make this a real standout light among many competitors even if the cost went up a few bucks.
Long time no talk, hope you've been well, Matt!
When you are in Sofirn website, you have a banner on top (if you are a new user) indicating a 10% discount and the code.
If you select other items (drivers, flashlights), you have a smaller banner in the product page offering a XX% discount. Click on “GET” and you’ll get it on the final value.
I hope it helps :+1:
Ive seen reports of VERY Pink sm573 dedomes, like –0.0080, even –0.0100. My experience with one sm573 dedome, is a duv of –0.0042.
What is the DUV of your dedomed sm573?
anyone else that has a dedomed sm573, and an Opple or other meter, Please share info. Please no Bare LED data… Im only asking for data in a light with its lens installed.
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fwiw the SP10 Pro Green is now available for ordering
Again green!? What about blue?! :innocent: Come on Sofirn, I dare you 
I thought you said Red is Better, so thats what I ordered… since I already had Green. 
I initially swapped the LED to an SST20 2700k. After a while my eyes told me the DUV was too high and I tried a 219b 3k. Turbo makes it go angry blue so I switched back to the SST20. I guess I need to try a 519a.
Sometimes what you don’t have is more desirable 
touché 
I would love trits around the button.
Has anyone else dropped there sp10pro a little to hard?
Not yet… did it die?
Has anyone tried the TG06S smooth reflector in this light? If I can get the head of mine apart I intend to. It looks close!
Couple decent fumbles here but nothing terrible. No issues.
I would definitely have preferred a bit higher max output, for hot-rod fun. I wonder if it’s possible to modify the driver to get more amps?
That’s a good question. Perhaps someone more versed in electronics than me can check if there is a sense resistor. And if so, what to replace it with for more power.
Not much you can do for NiMH, it’s already maxed out.
The FET channel will run at direct drive AFAIK. You could try using thicker cables to the MCPCB and bypassing the tail spring. Next limiting factor will be the FET.
I dont “get” the appeal of a couple of seconds of too much light and too much heat.
For me, the SP10 Pro has OUTSTANDING Low mode capability. I dont care about moments of Turbo, at all.
Plus I bought the light because it runs Anduril on AA… I would think it a Travesty, to delete AA compatibility, just to build another LiIon HotRod.
there are plenty of lights that run on LiIon and will get too hot. The SP10 Pro is not that light.
What the SP10 Pro does REALLY well, is to run Anduril on AA. There is NO other light that does that, afaik.
Next if someone manages to put the SP10 Pro driver into an Olight, THAT will be a Real Game Changer.
The light is really well balanced as far as heat to output. Oddly, this is 1 I will not screw with other than emitter change.
Ramping wasn’t butter smooth anymore. Pretty rough actually. but i did a rest, and it a perfect light again. Accept it still needs a 5000k 519a transplant.