Really impressive drawings grizzly, Amazing what you can do in your free time.
What problems does this design solve compared to the dm1.12, k9.3, or dual channel d4sv2?
If someone wants an ultrawarm/pink night light, they could spec the k9.3 with e21a 2000k and deep red.
If someone wants flood/throw, they can go with dm1.12 or d4s.
If someone wants tint ramping, they could go with d4s or dt8.
The only improvement I see is for UV use, where raising the height of the main glass, and adding a fixing collar would enable individual zwb2 filters. Maybe that would be a middle ground between uv mule on k9.3 and those modded l21a s. Linear driver isn’t ideal for that though.
I feel like Hank’s midsize lineup already covers a lot of bases. Stuff bigger than the dm1.12 and smaller than d4 needs some love. Surprised there is no boost or dual channel d18, or 26800 tube for k1. Heck, if we want to use s2+ optics, maybe a 14500 light would make sense (like an fw1aa with a slightly bigger head).
The point of the above is that proposing part reuse is tempting, but it still takes design effort to bring to market. Maybe that design effort would be better spent on holes in the lineup.
However, if there is something that this design could uniquely accomplish, then I’d change my mind.
I believe what this design uniquely accomplishes is allowing the user to adjust the beam profile on a per-LED level by changing the optics.
Take D4SV2 for example. In a flood/throw dual channel configuration we are limited to using the throw optic and throwy LED’s to achieve throw. It’s easy enough to use floody LED’s and DC-Fix for flood. D4V2 also can only get so throwy with it’s relatively small optics. With these larger S2+ optics, more throw could be achieved on one channel while also achieving wider flood on the other channel, without having to be particular about LED selection to control beam angle.
K9.3 has the same problem, being limited to relatively floody optics due to their small size.
Take DM1.12 next. The user is limited to a very throwy center optic and very floody outer optics. It also uses nearly twice as many LED’s which adds a lot of cost. With this design, the user can choose to mix whatever LED’s & optics they please to achieve the beam profile they want.
This design also has more thermal mass than DM1.12, K9.3, or DM1.12 for higher sustained output.
I was just thinking last night while playing with my new D4SV2’s that It would be nice to have a single optic with 2xflood and 2xthrow.
Maybe with some care and attention I could sand two of the optics on my lense.-
Edit: Hm, I kinda changed my mind about how relevant I thought this comment was. But people dont like posts being deleted so… I tried to strike through it, but it doesnt seem to want to work for some reason.
I did exactly that on my D4SV2, I covered two of the little optic cone fronts with masking tape circled and then sanded the rest of it with 400 grit sandpaper and it works ok.
That is one sweet render and it looks perfectly sized with a 26800 cell.
There could be a stamped out / machined front piece to align the optics like in the M43 meteor made out of polycarbonate.
4 throw & 3 flood would also be my ideal setup.
I think it would be really great if the company that made them could just make a combo optic.
Yeah! It’s in there, it’s frosted plastic just like K9.3. It doesn’t show up well in the renders but it’s there.
I would be more happy with a single emitter 18650 Hank with either an S2 size tir or small reflector. Something more pocketable than a KR1.
7 - SBT90.2s….for a flash bulb. 
What about a smaller 4.2 version. With 3 separate optics, a quad and 2 singles, but the same concept of being swappable.
For that many emitters, you might as well lean in to the old Maglite concept and go with a 2 x 26800 design, with an optional 3x26800 tube for those that want to fully embrace tradition and enjoy walking around with ~21,000mah of cells and 7 eye melting emitters.
That would be great. It would make the light much more expensive though, requiring a new beefy buck driver to be designed. One of my goals with this design was to use as many existing parts as possible (like DM1.12’s driver) to keep cost down.
Look at the advantages - Hank would finally have something (other than the K1) to compete in the medium/large format light space, and that something would have Hank’s trademark nature of being wildly customizable.
Im on board with this.
Basically If Hank could "bring back" the D1, but make it a 14500 light. That would be great.
A little late for the party. I would love this as a single channel light with all max throw optics and W2’s.
As long as the beam from the optic is clean. No dark rings in the beam or circles outside the spill.
26800 tube is fine, but I would like a adapter sleeve for 21700’s
Kinda have a preference for a Narsil UI rather than Anduril. Having both to choose from would be nice.
If this ever were to be produced I would definitely want there to be a single channel version as well. That all W2 config does sound pretty cool. A 21700 adapter sleeve would be a must as well since 26800’s are still hard to come by. That shouldn’t be too difficult to produce.
Regarding the firmware, Anduril seems like a clear successor to Narsil to me. So, I’m curious what appeals to you about Narsil that Anduril does not have?
On average, how often does Hank put out new lights?
I like my UI pretty basic, I play with the fancy stuff that Anduril has in the beginning just to try it out, then I settle in with the Moon thru Turbo modes.
I don’t even use functions like strobe, beacon, S.O.S. etc. But probably the main reason I prefer Narsil is, it has memory for 1 click Turbo from off. I don’t really care for double click Turbo from off or on.
But maybe Anduril has that function, but I haven’t been able to figure it out. I even PM’d Toykeeper, but I never got a reply back from her.
If you or anyone else out there know how I can get 1 click Turbo from off using Anduril 1 or 2, I would appreciate the info.
I see. Anduril does have that function, actually. Does your light have Anduril 1 or Anduril 2? The method to get 1C turbo varies depending on which version you’re using.